yeah the one i got i think is loctite 569 industrial high strenght hydraulic sealant.Again, nothing on the head gaskets. The metal exhaust gaskets are reusable. Do not use the Loctite 571 for head bolt thread sealant. It has a lot of friction and can lead to inaccurate torque readings. Use the PTFE stuff. That is actually the best part about using head studs. Since there are two ends, you can put the ptfe on one end, and lubricant on the other. It gives you dead on torque readings.
Kurt
what you think about my last post Hoopty?just a little slap and tickle. People have done far worse to motors and had them still run. If money is tight right now, I'd put money into the head to get it right. The piston should be fine.
what you think about my last post Hoopty?
I'll respond. I think he needs to work on basic sentence structure and grammar. After he has mastered that he can move on to learning a few things about mechanics, and then possibly give advice on engine repair. What he wrote is ridiculous. The hone is good enough on that short block that it's visible in a low resolution internet picture. Oil burns on to a cylinder when a ring fails, or the engine is run with very little oil in it. This engine has no signs of that at all. The bores are clean with a good hone pattern. You took the head off because of a dropped valve right? Am I missing something here?
The water has to come out of the cylinders. Suck up the majority of it with a shop vacuum, then wipe the rest out with a rag. Re apply some motor oil to the cylinder walls to keep them from rusting.
Kurt
lmao. I certainly wasn't ready to hear that what he said earlier and I certainly wasnt ready to just take one man's advice even though he has made alot of sense with alot of things we talked about before me pulling the heads. Today was the first time i sent him the pics and talked to him, maybe he misunderstood me on something not sure.I'll respond. I think he needs to work on basic sentence structure and grammar. After he has mastered that he can move on to learning a few things about mechanics, and then possibly give advice on engine repair. What he wrote is ridiculous. The hone is good enough on that short block that it's visible in a low resolution internet picture. Oil burns on to a cylinder when a ring fails, or the engine is run with very little oil in it. This engine has no signs of that at all. The bores are clean with a good hone pattern. You took the head off because of a dropped valve right? Am I missing something here?
The water has to come out of the cylinders. Suck up the majority of it with a shop vacuum, then wipe the rest out with a rag. Re apply some motor oil to the cylinder walls to keep them from rusting.
Kurt
sounds good and i couldnt even tell the valve was bent , my engine swapper said it was slightI think what Kurt said is right on. Although for a second, I thought Kurt was referring to my post before I read what you posted haha.
You pulled the engine for a broken spring, not a broken ring. If you had enough blow by to cause an issue, you'd have known long ago. The hone looks fine and yes, the cyl walls will be oil soaked. People have run motors with BROKEN pistons and not known anything was wrong until they pulled the head for an unrelated issue (although both problems may have the same cause).
If everything ran ok before, fix your head and keep motoring.
yeah the trick flow upgraded kit is $199 so i'm guessing Ed's will be 400? I will call him tommorow if i remember.To the OP, before you invest one more penny on that motor, get the deck surface clean and lay a straight edge on it. If it is not level, you need to pull that motor out and have the deck milled or it will never seal properly. Same for the head surface. If not level, take it to a machine shop and have them give it a very light mill.
As mentioned by others, you need to get all the surfaces squeaky clean- block surface, pistons, heads, bolt holes. That is the #1 cause of gasket failure. I would try and deburr that one piston relief to avoid a hot spot or a valve hitting as it appears to be raised a little. One more thing I would say- in addition to thread sealer on the top head bolts, use ARP assembly lube or molu lube on all the head bolts. I like the Felpro 9333 head gaskets.
For the valve springs, you can get the upgraded TFS ones or call Ed @ TFI. His springs are much better but also double the price.
For painting the headers, I've had good success with VHT ceramic header paint. It leaves a nice durable silver surface.
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