heads?HEADS?heads?

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
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0
orlando
I want to get some heads to slap on my 5.0/302 during a rebuild. I mean slap on,fully assembled etc.
I want to get the right ones. cuz i want 2 avoid problems when it comes to installation.Ive been ebaying and kinda catching some good deals. but i dont want to make a mistake of getting something that i will need to drill this and make gaskets etc. i like things clean and simple. I dont know if i will need new head bolts, vavlve covers etc.
 
i had just bought a set of performer rpm heads with 2.02-1.60 valves for 950 out the door fully assemble.it is required you replace your head bolts with arp bolts.you can skimp and get any aftermarket head but dont skimp on the mounting hardwear.most all 5.0 i said most all, heads are fully assmebled and are ready to be bolted on.make sure if you ebay it its a reputible source.
 
If you really want to budget. Grab a Explorer 5.0 with the GT40P heads. I got a whole engine for $500 and the short block is for sale. I got the heads and the Cobra style intake, I figure I should get some money for the shortblock and the only other things I had to buy were different plugs and new shorty headers.
 
Ok forget the above its to confusing.!??
Here is the *****.
I want some heads to get some horsies. I want them complete because I would f something up otherwise.
I am building upa pile parts to go on during my rebuild.
I have Cobra up/low intake,65mmtb.And soon some heads. I need heads that will match up to the gt40 intake manifold and my headers. I plan on a 6psi S/charger...so knowing that i need help picking out the right thing.
Keep in mind its gonna be my daily driver.
 
i have this same problem, i need heads too with my GT40 intake, 70mm tb, 77mm maf, longtubes... i dont want it to be cheap, but under $1100 would be good. Whats the difference between the twisted wedge, performer rpm, and afr 165's?? which will give the most power?
 
I saw no mention of rear in gears in your post or sig. Some 3.55 or 3.73 gears are almost a must have beforeyou think about different heads. Any high performance head will move the power band up in the RPM range. With stock gears, that means the engine will take longer to get up to the point where the engine starts to pull hard. Once it does get up to that RPM range, it will run good, but below that RPM range, the stock heads will pull just as good, maybe better. A new intake manifold is also a must have with new heads, otherwise you just moved the flow restricting point from the heads to the intake manifold.

Here's something to think about:

Trick flow's are great heads. But You need to buy new stud mount rockers & new special length pushrods. Not only that, but you need to use an adjustable pushrod to figure the proper pushrod length. If you are a very good mechanic and are careful, this is not a a big problem. http://www.trickflow.com/

AFR heads flow the best out of the box of any aftermarket head. However, they are $200-$300 more expensive new than most of the other aluminum heads. You don't need any special pushrods, but you will need some good roller rockers. Stock rockers can be used, but that takes away from why you got the heads in the first place. http://www.airflowresearch.com/

Edlebrock makes good heads that cost about the same as Trick Flow. They don't flow as good as Trick Flow or AFR, but they don't need any special pushrods and use regular pedistal mount rockers. http://www.edelbrock.com/

Thumper heads are ported cast iron heads, and are a great bang for your buck. This is the best budget head you can get unless to snag one of the 3 brands of heads above from someone who needs quick cash. The Thumpers don't flow or make as much power as a good aluminum head, but they have lots of kick for a street combination and are as easy to install as stock heads. http://www.thumperoforangepark.com/

There are lots of other head makers, Canfield, Brodix, Dart, Ford, Holly. Pro Topline, etc. See http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Ford for a flow chart comparsion.
 
Look into the classifieds here on stangnet... ported E7s will rock for the cost and the performance street strip car!! Velocity is the key, as long as driveability and snap from the red lights...

Just a thought........

Just me...............................

Thumper
 
I feel that "cheap" was a dig....!! LOL yep!! "cheap" 12 second Ride !! Yeah, "cheap" more money for suspension... yeah, 'Cheap" more money for induction.... Yeah, "cheap" more money to buy a 1/2 inch wrench to HELP the looser bolt back on HIS doors.... aint nothing "CHEAP" about it!! LOL

Just me...............................

Thumper
 
All this talk about cheap. I thought that's what mustangs were all about. Cheaper, faster, better.
At least that's what I always tell em after I bet em!
"Nice 50,000.00 dollar vette". Love it when the LT1 and LS1's people tell me they have 6 grand of motor. My car with everything I've done only cost me 8 grand.