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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Heater Core / Dash removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Krakah94GTVert
  • Start date Start date Aug 19, 2010
K

Krakah94GTVert

Member
Mar 20, 2009
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Aug 19, 2010
#1
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #1
So I got coolant leaking behind the dash, and I assume its the heater core
I'll know for sure once the dash is off.

Any really good guides to removing he dash?? I've removed a dash from a '86 GT but never the SN95's. That was a nightmare I can only imagine what this is gonna be like.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
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Acworth, GA
Aug 19, 2010
#2
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #2
You can actually get away without removing the dash. Drop the steering column, and remove the bolts that hold the dash in place. There are like 3 bolts holding the HVAC box in. Two at the top, and one at the bottom. If you remove the passenger seat, you can pull the dash back enough to slide the HVAC box out the bottom.

Kurt
 
K

Krakah94GTVert

Member
Mar 20, 2009
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0
6
Aug 20, 2010
#3
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #3
How tight is it working in there doing it that way? I'm not familar with the sn95's and this is the first Mustang I've owned in 8 years.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
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Acworth, GA
Aug 20, 2010
#4
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #4
It's tight, but not the end of the world. I should add, that if you slip out the entire HVAC box, you will need to disconnect the AC. If you take the dash off, you can change just the heater core. I'm not sure if that's an issue for you. I've done this job on a Fox and an SN.

Kurt
 
K

Krakah94GTVert

Member
Mar 20, 2009
54
0
6
Aug 20, 2010
#5
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #5
I'm glad you mentioned about having to disconnect the AC if I take out the HVAC box. Id like to not have to do that. So maybe taking off the dash completely is the better way to go.

I thought I saw some guide awhile back on how to do this.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
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Acworth, GA
Aug 20, 2010
#6
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #6
Ok yeah, you're going to have to take the dash off. It's really not that hard. If you have a Haynes manual, it outlines it pretty well. the important thing is that you can just drop the steering column on the floor. So that's not even an issue. The rest is just a few bolts connectors and such.

Kurt
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
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Aug 20, 2010
#7
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #7
I've removed a couple of SN-95 dashes, so I can tell you that Kurt is definitely correct. There are bolts everywhere, including (I think) behind the vents near the doors. Be patient, and don't yank the dash out until you're sure all the bolts are out. Also, you have a couple of hoses leading to the HVAC system from the dash and a couple of electrical connectors too; so be sure everything is unhooked before you yank out the dash.

If you want enough room to work, you'll need to pull the dash completely out of the car. You can probably do the work with the dash still in, but I would imagine it would cause more work. I'd recommend having a buddy help you lift the dash out, it'll be much easier and you probably won't scratch up your interior. After dropping the steering wheel, I'd just disconnect the steering shaft from the unit and move the steering wheel out of the way. Also much easier if you pull both seats.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Aug 20, 2010
#8
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #8
Its not that bad ive done like 3... just set about 4 hours aside and you will be good. Most everything is 8mm... then 15mm under the column i think. make sure you have a 1/4'' socket and a few extensions. I always take out the seats for more room so i can lay on my back to do the column. Air tools will make it go quicker

 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
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Acworth, GA
Aug 20, 2010
#9
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #9
There are some 10mm hiding in there two. the A-pillars pop right off. there are a bunch of screws under the defrost vent. The Defrost vent pops right off too.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Aug 20, 2010
#10
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #10
revhead347 said:
There are some 10mm hiding in there two. the A-pillars pop right off. there are a bunch of screws under the defrost vent. The Defrost vent pops right off too.

Kurt
Click to expand...


Yea maybe a 12mm or 2 as well... isnt there a 5.5mm some where??? and some t20's

The defrost vent only pops right off if its not hard and brittle from the sun then it falls apart in your hands
 

94GTMOOSE

Member
Jun 27, 2005
303
0
16
jersey shore
Jan 11, 2013
#11
  • Jan 11, 2013
  • #11
I think I am going to need to do a heater core in the near future. I was pretty nervous about taking on a task like this, then I saw the picture Adam put up. Now I am plain scared less. I think the most nerve racking thing is seeing a mini sledge on the pass side floor. I have heard the expression if it don't work, get a bigger hammer, but com'on what could you need that for.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Jan 12, 2013
#12
  • Jan 12, 2013
  • #12
Adam had removed more than he needed to because he was doing more than just a heater core. It's an easy job. It just requires time and patience.

Kurt
 

chaos254

Founding Member
Jul 27, 2002
467
3
29
NJ
Jan 26, 2013
#13
  • Jan 26, 2013
  • #13
my heater core is bad also, i plan on just capping the line at the water pump since i dont drive the car in the winter.
 
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