Heater Rail Delete?

[GSXRMIXXER]

ok guys help me out. im re-doing the top end of my motor and replacing the stock upper/lower intakes with cobra ones. well, while im at it i would like to remove the stock heater rails because i have no heater core/ assembly below the dash. i live in FL now and heat is not an problem! long story short does anyone have any ideas/pictures of what needs to be done (correctly) to completely remove all heating elements and clean up the top of my engine? how do i cap off the water pump outlet ? pics are great so please post. thanks in advance

 

[Fett]

Two words: De Frost. In Florida you will want it, it is amazing how quickly your windows fog up down here with the humidity. Just food for thought.

 

[93 LX]

If you have EFI then you will need a place for the ECT...

 

[GSXRMIXXER]

If you have EFI then you will need a place for the ECT...

?? that is??

 

[GSXRMIXXER]

Two words: De Frost. In Florida you will want it, it is amazing how quickly your windows fog up down here with the humidity. Just food for thought.

electric heater

 

[Darkwriter77]

You'll need a small plug for the back of the intake where the TB spacer coolant line used to go (1/4" NPT, IIRC) and a brass bushing to plug your ECT sensor into the front of the intake where your heater pipe used to go in - not sure of the diameter (sorry, I'm senile), but go raid the Dorman drawers of your local Autozone and you'll find it in there. Also, you'll need a hose nipple cap for the extra water pump outlet that you won't be using; you can either use a formed rubber cap (also at Autozone, in the coolant-related goodies aisle) or just take a short bit of heater hose with a big fat bolt slathered with RTV silicone sealant shoved and clamped into the end of it ... and be sure to use good stainless steel hose clamps to secure everything.

DO NOT try to use a little vacuum cap to plug that back nipple on the rear of the intake, even with a little hose clamp. That thing can see way more pressure than a vacuum cap can contain, and I found out the hard way when I went WOT one time and that sucker popped, spewing coolant allllllll over underhood. ("So much blood for such a tiny little hole..." )

 

[93 LX]

?? that is??

Engine Coolent Temperture sensor.
This is how the ECC knows when the engine is cold or hot.

 

[RYC CUKR]

You'll need a small plug for the back of the intake where the TB spacer coolant line used to go (1/4" NPT, IIRC) and a brass bushing to plug your ECT sensor into the front of the intake where your heater pipe used to go in - not sure of the diameter (sorry, I'm senile), but go raid the Dorman drawers of your local Autozone and you'll find it in there. Also, you'll need a hose nipple cap for the extra water pump outlet that you won't be using; you can either use a formed rubber cap (also at Autozone, in the coolant-related goodies aisle) or just take a short bit of heater hose with a big fat bolt slathered with RTV silicone sealant shoved and clamped into the end of it ... and be sure to use good stainless steel hose clamps to secure everything.

DO NOT try to use a little vacuum cap to plug that back nipple on the rear of the intake, even with a little hose clamp. That thing can see way more pressure than a vacuum cap can contain, and I found out the hard way when I went WOT one time and that sucker popped, spewing coolant allllllll over underhood. ("So much blood for such a tiny little hole..." )

This is exactly what I did when I put the ECT back in after the previous owner removed it and the heater hardlines.

 

[vikingpower]

If you keep the heater, remove the hard lines and use heater hose, its a lot easier to service the engine. I cut the part with that sensor thing off and kept that, then ran the rest with rubber hose.

 

[89Notch]

I hate to hijack the thread but...

I have a carb'd engine and plan on removing the heater rail. Are you saying to plug the outlet off the water pump all you have to do is put a nipple cap with a clamp over it and that is good enough to hold the pressure? Thanks