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Help! 94 Heater Core!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sompin2do
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2006
S

Sompin2do

New Member
Nov 30, 2004
59
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TX
Mar 10, 2006
#1
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #1
I've got the dash disconnected and pulled back far enough to get at the box, but can't get the heater core box back far enough to get the lid up. Does the AC drier have to be disconnected? Chilton doesn't ever mention AC discharge. I've removed all the bracket bolts/nuts and got the hidden screw that goes from the inside through the firewall. I've had to scrape the insulation that seems to be glued to the top of the lid and when I lay on my back in the passenger floorboard and try to pull the entire assembly away from the firewall it seems like that insulation down below is really holding it up.
I am not having fun.
 

95cobraguy

Member
Dec 23, 2005
637
11
19
Concord, NC by way of LI, NY
Mar 11, 2006
#2
  • Mar 11, 2006
  • #2
i would think the evaporator needs to be disconnected from the lines so the whole heater box can be pulled back. for that the ac needs to be discharged unless the system is empty. how bad of a job was this anyhow?
 
S

Sompin2do

New Member
Nov 30, 2004
59
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Mar 11, 2006
#3
  • Mar 11, 2006
  • #3
Theres a guy that posted in here awhile back that said he was able to get the box back about 3" without disconnecting the AC lines. I also checked with a local shop and they said their book didn't say it had to be disconnected just like Chiltons manual 26608 that I have. Now that I'm in there, I can say that the AC does have to be disconnected if you intend to get the whole box out.

How bad is it? So far it's not as bad as I expected. I took a couple of recommendations from here such as removing the front seats (10 minutes total) and I also took my time and put hardware in zip-lock bags with a note to remind me where they go. The Chilton manual I have also has a typo. It says when you remove the dash you have to disconnect the "main engine wiring harness and feed it through the firewall". I think that's just something they copied out of the Fox body book because the 94s have modular connectors so there is no "main harness." There are several plugs that have to be disconnected but the dash itself really isn't that tough. Also helps that my manual has pretty detailed instructions. Much better than Haynes. IMO.

This insulation is really kickin my butt right now. It seems to have possibly gotten hot enough to weld itself to the lid area that I need to get the core out. I'm going to see if I can free it up enough to get the core out and a clear path to put in the OEM core (by the way- get OEM Ford not AUTO ZONE).

Still hoping for some help here. Back to the garage.

Thanks
Mike
 

scarless

Member
Aug 9, 2004
175
0
16
Mar 11, 2006
#4
  • Mar 11, 2006
  • #4
Here are some tips to change it without disconnecting the AC. The article is for 93's but SN95s process is almost the same.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/5652/
 
S

Sompin2do

New Member
Nov 30, 2004
59
0
0
TX
Mar 11, 2006
#5
  • Mar 11, 2006
  • #5
I've seen the MMFF tips but those aren't working. I know I've gotten all the required bolts, washers and screws out of the box and around the drier bracket but it still feels like it's stuck. When I get in the car and try to pull the box away from the firewall it feels like there's something holding it in solid on the driver side. That thing doesn't move.
What does it take to get the AC lines disconnected? I just had the AC repaired and it has a fresh charge. Any suggestions? I guess I could contact my usual mechanic and see if they can come by and disconnect. It certainly can't be driven. This makes my head hurt!!!
 
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