HELP! car wont start

94superstang

New Member
Apr 26, 2007
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Today Dad and I bought an 88 lx. The guy we bought it from had wired an electric fan he did a real crappy job wiring I might add. Well anyway I was driving it home when I came to a stop. The light turned green And I pressed it the clutch and the car and smoke came up under the dash. The car turned right off. I looked under the dash and the wire he used for the fan got pinched between the clutch pedal and the bracket. We towed it home and changed the starter selenoid. still nothing. the car doesn't crank over and the windows wont roll up. The lights turn on and it chimes when I put the key in the ignition. Changed the coil and still nothing. Any Ideas? Checked all the fuses and they were good. The power wire for the fan was connected close to the ignition switch. I think It was red and blue. Any info will be appreciated.
 
Check the fusible links and fuses.

See Jrichker's no-crank checklist. It sounds like an issue with the starter interlock circuit since it won't even crank.

Good luck.
 
I checked the fuses under the dash. Are there any others I should know about/check?

The fusible links just off the battery lug of the starter solenoid are where I would be checking.

Several of these are involved with supplying power to the passenger compartment fusebox and to the ignition switch. If you noted any fuses that were not blown but also had no power going to them whe they should have, this reinforces that theory.

Good luck.
 
No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.
fig-7.gif


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds
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See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 
So today I was working on the stang. I replaced the ignition switch and checked the fusible likes. The all had power going to them. I jumped the selinoid and the motor turned over. Im not sure if i checked the fusible links correctly. I used a voltmeter and poked in to each of them. I put the negitive side of the volt meter to the negitive side of the battery and the had 12 volts. is that correct?
 
Do the checklist - I know that it seems like a lots of steps, but it eliminates what does work and leaves you with what doesn't. That keeps you from chasing your tail and spending time and money needlessly.