Help Diagnose my low rwhp issue. Any experts?

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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MA, USA
I may end up having to fix this myself. Here's what I've ended up with. I have a 414 c.i. engine with a .586 lift cam, 210cc heads and an edelbrock victor intake putting out a $hity 352rwhp. Any experts have any guesses why? Would weak valve springs cause this problem? Why would a rocker arm only have 1/8th of a turn of play that I could adjust? Is that a sign of weak springs?

Last of all, does anyone know of a good shop in the Baltimore area that can look at my car and:

A. Won't take it out and drive the piss out of it.
B. Won't charge me tons of money to fix.
C. Someone that can commit to a date to bring the car in and have it out.

I am at the point where I just want the @#$% #$#% car fixed. I don't care what the reason.

Thanks.
 
As long as the valves don't float, the springs should not be too soft. Might want to call a cam expert to give what your cam specs are and what they would recommend for your set-up. My thought would be too little lift/duration to fill the cylinders, but that is just a stab in the dark.
Stan
 
did you get it running again?

Thanks for asking. No Chris I did not get the car running. I learned from another engine guy that was able to give me some advice that you can NOT use a stock 351 distributor with my engine. You have to get a higher performance distributor that has a harder gear. My distributor gear did not break but about half of the tines were crushed because it is apparently too soft. Therefore the rotor would not spin. This is what caused the car to stop running.

I guess I am going to have the engine cleaned out now just in case any metal flakes got in the oil pan. I have no #^&*ING idea how to do this, how much it costs or if it can even be done without taking the whole motor apart. The car stopped immediately as it had no more spark to run with. It cranks fine and I imagine if there are any flakes, they are in the oil pan.

Here are my specs:

414ci 10.45:1comp

Hyd Roller CAM SPECS @ .050" .586/.584 248/254 108cl 112lsa (power will be around 3200-6500rpm)

ProComp Heads 210cc, 60cc chamber 2.05 int x 1.60ext

1.60" Rockers

Edelbrock VICTOR intake

80mm TB

90mm Lightning MAF

36# inj, flow tested/matched

stock rails

255 lph FUEL PUMP
 
I always thought a stock distributor would work as long it has a steel gear. :shrug:


Your cam has more duration than mine, and the lift is close. I would guess the problem is with the heads, but I know nothing about them. What exhaust do you have?
 
A stock distributor is fine it's the distributor gear that has to be changed to be compatable with the roller cam. If the distributor was originally in a non roller engine it won't have the correct distributor gear which would cause your problem.

If I had to pull the oil pan off the engine I would replace the oil pump because if any metal gets into the oil pump it will more than likely lock up shearing the pin in the distributor gear which will cause the engine to suddenly die.
 
Nice. I wish I would have known all this from the start. Chris just make sure you have a steel gear on your distributor. Better yet, buy a good quality distributor made for these engines and be done with it. Thanks guys.

Sure Mike. "ProComp Heads 210cc, 60cc chamber 2.05 int x 1.60ext"

Most of the people I have talked to have agreed that the heads should still have gotten me to 400rwhp.
 
First off we need a lot more information in order to help you out. What RPM did it make peak HP and TQ at? How much timing are you running? Did it pull cleanly through the gear on the dyno or was it breaking up? How does the graph look and what smoothing factor was used? What kind of dyno was it (dynojet/mustang/or other)? Are all the plug wires on correctly? What is the base timing? Have you done a compression test?

What do you mean about 1/8th turn to adjust? Are they stud mount rockers? If so I don't understand what you are saying. On a stud mount you arrive at zero lasg, and then turn the nut 1/4-3/4 of a turn and snug down the poly-lock. This is assuming that you have already checked the pushrod length/geometry or had it checked and its correct.
 
"On a stud mount you arrive at zero lasg, and then turn the nut 1/4-3/4 of a turn and snug down the poly-lock. This is assuming that you have already checked the pushrod length/geometry or had it checked and its correct."

When I first got the engine I went to start it and it sounded like a buzz saw and refused to start. My cousin found out that the rockers were tightened down incredibly tight and said the valves were held open or something. Bear with me cuz I aint no expert. All I know is that it wouldn't start and the rocker arms were adjusted incorrectly. He attempted to adjust them and after ZERO lash we couldn't go past 1/16-1/8th of a turn or the car would go back to sounding like a buzz saw and wouldn't start cuz I guess that made it too tight.

"What RPM did it make peak HP and TQ at?"
5000rpm

"How much timing are you running?"
15*

"Did it pull cleanly through the gear on the dyno or was it breaking up?"
Clean.

"How does the graph look and what smoothing factor was used?"
Looks fine to me. Dunno what smoothing means.

"What kind of dyno was it (dynojet/mustang/or other)?"
Whatever SGS uses dunno.

"Are all the plug wires on correctly?"
LOL. Yes.


"What is the base timing?"
10* I think.

"Have you done a compression test?""
Yep. After the 1/16th turn approx 160-180 was the reading.

As to the diagnosis, I would work with my builder but he doesn't have time and I am tired of waiting. So I am will figure it out myself.
 
"On a stud mount you arrive at zero lasg, and then turn the nut 1/4-3/4 of a turn and snug down the poly-lock. This is assuming that you have already checked the pushrod length/geometry or had it checked and its correct."

When I first got the engine I went to start it and it sounded like a buzz saw and refused to start. My cousin found out that the rockers were tightened down incredibly tight and said the valves were held open or something. Bear with me cuz I aint no expert. All I know is that it wouldn't start and the rocker arms were adjusted incorrectly. He attempted to adjust them and after ZERO lash we couldn't go past 1/16-1/8th of a turn or the car would go back to sounding like a buzz saw and wouldn't start cuz I guess that made it too tight.

"What RPM did it make peak HP and TQ at?"
5000rpm

"How much timing are you running?"
15*


The rocker issue seems like a big one to me. If what you are saying is correct, you have the wrong length pushrods in there and this could cause all sorts of issues. I don't agree with setting the rockers "based on sound" though and 1/16-1/8th turn is no where near enough and "should" make for a LOUDER not a quiter engine. Are you sure you are arriving just at zero lash and not going past it? Did your builder set them up for you in the beginning? If so, I'd be very surprised if they are setup wrong. I'm trying no to doubt you and your cousin, but I my gut tells me you are not setting them up correctly, especially if they are a stud mount design.

I hope the 15# of timing was a misprint. If it wasn't there is your lost HP right there. You should be at least at 30-32* at a min. at full timing. If your base is 10* and you are only going to 15* that is 100% your problem. I doubt that is the case though and is more than likely a misprint as I know Dave at SGS well and he is a great tuner and wouldn't let that car out of there with that little of timing.

Which peak occured at 5000... HP or TQ? I want to know where both occured.


Edit- back to the rockers... most new engines will sound like this for a good while when first started due to the time required for the lifters to prime. I had my lifters soaking in oil for nearly 2 years before I put them in my engine and it still took like 5-10 minutes for them to quite down, and I even used an oil pump priming tool prior to first startup. When you tear it down and look at them they may appear to be over tightened as they haven't pumped up yet, this is especially true if you decent valve springs in the car. You'd have to tighten the rocker down a good 1/4" or more before you'd open the valve, and that would be WAY more than 1/8th turn of preload on a stud mount rocker. My gut tells me you should have left them alone and that they were not set wrong. I could absolutely be wrong, but your situation with the rockers just seems so off to me.
 
The rocker adjustment problem is probably due to the wrong length pushrods. If it's that close, it's a wonder you don't have a lot of valvetrain noise from loose rockers.

It also sounds like the total timing is a bit low. If the initial is 10* and the total is 15*, you're about 20* shy of the typical SBF. Even adding your inital 10* to the 15* leaves you about 10* shy of the 35* total that seems to work really well for SBF engines.

Just a couple thoughts, I'm no expert by any means!

Good luck figuring it out! :nice:

Scott
 
"The rocker issue seems like a big one to me. If what you are saying is correct, you have the wrong length pushrods in there and this could cause all sorts of issues. I don't agree with setting the rockers "based on sound" though and 1/16-1/8th turn is no where near enough and "should" make for a LOUDER not a quiter engine. Are you sure you are arriving just at zero lash and not going past it?"

Absolutely no doubt.

" Did your builder set them up for you in the beginning? If so, I'd be very surprised if they are setup wrong. I'm trying no to doubt you and your cousin, but I my gut tells me you are not setting them up correctly, especially if they are a stud mount design."

Yes. And when I went to start the car...not even a rumble. Just schhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Until we found it was super tight. I can only tell you my experience and this is what I experienced upon first starting it with no adjustments. Freaked me out. EDIT: I mean the car would not even start. This is not what it sounded like with the engine running. The engine would not even run. When I hit the ignition all you would hear is the starting and a SCHZZZZZZZZZZZZZ sound. No kickover what-so-ever.

"I hope the 15# of timing was a misprint. If it wasn't there is your lost HP right there. You should be at least at 30-32* at a min. at full timing. If your base is 10* and you are only going to 15* that is 100% your problem. I doubt that is the case though and is more than likely a misprint as I know Dave at SGS well and he is a great tuner and wouldn't let that car out of there with that little of timing."

No I mean at the computer it is set to 10* and then advanced to 15*..prolly 32 total yes.

Which peak occured at 5000... HP or TQ? I want to know where both occured.

I have to check Paul.


"Edit- back to the rockers... most new engines will sound like this for a good while when first started due to the time required for the lifters to prime. I had my lifters soaking in oil for nearly 2 years before I put them in my engine and it still took like 5-10 minutes for them to quite down, and I even used an oil pump priming tool prior to first startup. When you tear it down and look at them they may appear to be over tightened as they haven't pumped up yet, this is especially true if you decent valve springs in the car. You'd have to tighten the rocker down a good 1/4" or more before you'd open the valve, and that would be WAY more than 1/8th turn of preload on a stud mount rocker. My gut tells me you should have left them alone and that they were not set wrong. I could absolutely be wrong, but your situation with the rockers just seems so off to me."

If I had left them alone my car would still be sitting in the garage and would have never run. Might have been better anyway. Again, I can only tell you exactly what happened. It was supposed to be ready to go , period, end of story, no adjustments. I went to start it and you guys know the story. After that the rockers just would not adjust properly. It shouldn't have been that way and I dont know why.

BTW KC..I think the TQ was down low....I'll look .
 
A stock distributor is fine it's the distributor gear that has to be changed to be compatable with the roller cam. If the distributor was originally in a non roller engine it won't have the correct distributor gear which would cause your problem.

If I had to pull the oil pan off the engine I would replace the oil pump because if any metal gets into the oil pump it will more than likely lock up shearing the pin in the distributor gear which will cause the engine to suddenly die.
i talked to my engine builder about my distributor. he said that since mine was from a efi truck with a roller cam, then the gear should already be compatible.

so i don't think i'm going to worry about this right now for my motor

keith, i wouldn't pull the motor to have it taken apart just in case it might have shavings. that is a huge expense for something that may not be an issue. if it is not an issue, then going through that would be a big waste of time and money.

and if it is an issue, then it will be apparent pretty quickly if you run it some more.

so i'd change the oil and filter a couple of times first and see what happens. if it needs to be pulled, then make sure there is a reason to pull it
 
I agree with killer on the rocker and pushrod issue. Since you cant get them pass 1/6 and 1/8 of a turn is probably because the spring is compress when you are setting lash.I say order two pushrod checkers and light valve springs(what needs to be use from what I just learned),and check.