Help DID SEARCH and still lost!!

mustangsquared

Founding Member
Jun 8, 2002
828
1
16
new bern nc
3G alt...asked a hundred times I know but please clarify this for me:

1) the 2 black w/orange strip wires...do you connect them to the alt bolt along with the 4 gauge wire or not? (PA's webb site says to but I read on here not to)

2) if NOT do you connect the ends together or just tape them off?

have a charging problem and trying to figure out why my 3G sucks...thanks for answering this ...again
 
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G (94 Mustang and later 130 amp alt) installation procedure...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

See these sites for the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
 
The Black/Orange wires do not get connected to the 3G. I left the original plug on the wiring when I did mine. You could cut the plug off and heat shrink a cover over the wires, but why bother? if you have already cut the plug of, just put some heat shrink tubing over the wires to cover the bare ends.
 
FOLLOW UP:

I rechecked all my wiring...allin proper place. BUT...seems there always is one... I am only getting 7.15 Volts at the white wire? It drops with RPMS...is this normal?? I thought it should read 12 volts? Can I run a new wire from the battery to the connector to give it 12 volts? Thanks.
 
mustangsquared said:
FOLLOW UP:

I rechecked all my wiring...allin proper place. BUT...seems there always is one... I am only getting 7.15 Volts at the white wire? It drops with RPMS...is this normal?? I thought it should read 12 volts? Can I run a new wire from the battery to the connector to give it 12 volts? Thanks.

The white/black wire comes from the regulator and may not have 12 volts on it. Don't wire it to anything else.

See See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif wioring diagram showing the stock alternator wiring.
 
So does this mean that my Regulator is bad...or at least on the down slide? Anyone else have a regulator on a 3G crap on them? If so what were the symptoms? My fan comes on and the needle drops and wont come back up...regardless of RPM's...add lights and/or A/C and I run lean and the check engine light comes on.
 
FOLLOW UP:

Replaced the regulator last night and cleaned the contacts on the 2 magnets...still not getting full out put when the fan and lights are on...no where close. My needle sits on the "A" and wont move regardless of RPMs...tested it my running the car up to 3500 RPMs and holding it there for a mile. Anyone else have tis problem with a 3G and Black Magic Fan?? It used to sit at the top of the "A" when I first got the Alt.
 
I just put a 3G on my truck. The white/black wire should see at least 10v to work right.
With my alternator I got a wiring diagram that showed were everything should go.
The green/red wire should be connected to ignition thru an indicator light.
The white/black wire loops from the center of the oval plug to the stator.
The yellow wire should be wired to the battery.

I have my yellow wire going directly to the charging terminal on the alternator.
Maybe this helps. :shrug:
 
Thanks, let me get this correct:

The yellow wire is coming off the D connector, correct? The white is looped on mine.

I wired everything as instructed in the paper work (minus the black/orange to alt). I wonder if I have a short in the yellow wire between the battery and alt.

Can I run a new seperate line to say the start solenoid (pos bat side) to accomidate the needed 10 plus volts? Anyone done this?