Help. Intake manifold swap gone bad.

94superstang said:

Another weird thing i noticed is that my ac doesn't blow cold any more and the compressor clicks on for a second that clicks off. I musta have really messed something up.

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94superstang said:

So unplug it and jump it. If it stays on the whole time the switch is bad. Right? Can I use a paperclip to jump it or should i make one out of wire and two male connectors.

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JJ95GTID said:

Just use a piece of wire to jump both sides of the plug.
Turn on the AC while car is running.
If the compressor comes on and stays on then the switch is bad.
Get a new one.

To install just unscrew the old HP switch.
You'll hear a pressure release because it is a Schrader valve that you are unscrewing.
Then screw on the new one and plug in the connector and your done.

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The_Mustang said:

Hold the phone there buddy... That switch is designed to turn the compressor off if the pressure gets too low on the low side of the system. That's why they call it a "low pressure cutoff switch" His system may be a little low on refridgerant causing the compressor to short cycle. Mine was doing this the other day, I added a can of 134-A and all was good again.

In my experiences, when the switch goes bad the compressor doesn't come on at all.

The jumper trick will only tell you if the compressor is working or not, or if there is a problem between the switch wiring and the compressor. The compressor will operate (if it is working) regardless of how much freon is in the system, if you jump that connecter. There are actually 2 switches on our cars, the low and a High pressure cutoff. Either one of these can shut the system down. If you add a can and it doesn't fix the problem, you may want get someone to put a gauge setup on it to see what the low side and high side are doing at the same time.

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94superstang said:

Yeah with the spring going inside the intake. The only thing i don't understand is it was fine before the intake install. I used the stock thermo For a while and it was still doing the same thing. However i didn't burp the system so i'll try to change the thermo tommorow and see what happens. If it doesn't work i'll try and re wire the low speed fan because i don't think its coming on. Another weird thing i noticed is that my ac doesn't blow cold any more and the compressor clicks on for a second that clicks off. I musta have really messed something up.

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JJ95GTID said:

I believe the black one on the canister is the high pressure switch. The green switch near the CCRM is the low pressure switch IIRC. When I got mine from Autozone the box said it was a high pressure switch. My green switch is still OEM.

Still though, checking the level of R134 is a good idea also.

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94superstang said:

So I changed the ect sensor and the thermo today. I drove it around the block and it still did the same thing. I get home go inside for a bit and come back out. I looked at my car and there was a huge leak. I opened the hood and noticed that it was leaking from the water pump. Now my water pump is bad. Do you think this was the problem the whole time? What could cause the water pump to go out?

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94superstang said:

No i haven't replaced it before. It still has the oem one. The car only has 52k miles on it. But i'll have to replace it. For now i'm going to by pass the heater so i don't blow it out. My heater went out on my other mustang and it cost me 475 to fix. So i def don't want to go out. I'm going to change it and flush the radiator to see if maybe some dirt or rust is clogging the system. And while i'm at it ill change the intake gasket to make sure its in right.

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