HELP! JMS chip f***ed up my car!

red94fiveo

New Member
Apr 12, 2003
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Wichita, KS
I know its been a little while since i've posted, but things just got a little crazy with finals and everything. Good to be back, anyway.....

I got my JMS chip in the mail today and went to put it in my car. Per the instructions, I set the timing back to 10* and just left the FP at what it was at. I put the chip in, set it to program 1 and started the car. Program 1 is just a test program with a 2500 rpm limit and it seemed to work fine, so I turned off the car and went to program 2. And then the stuff hit the fan...

Here is what program 2 is: 850rpmidle, rev limiter set to 6800, fans on @ 188 degrees, removed speed limiters and shift retards, turned off egr/thermactor, setup for 91 octane unleaded fuel, total timing is set to 29 degrees, and WOT fuel is stock.

Here is what program 3 is: same as program 2, only total timing is set to 31 degrees and WOT fuel is 2% leaner than stock.

When is started the car in program 2 or 3, my A/F gauge is pegged at rich, instead of bouncing when the car is at idle. After being driven a little bit, the guage starts to bounce, but the car sucks. It sounds like it has a miss and is generally slower than without the chip. Also, it won't start without me giving it gas. This pissed me off, so I figured I would call JMS and ake the chip out for now. However, after I took the chip out (left them timing at 10*) and drove the car back home from my parents house, now the car won't rev past 5Kand has a miss below 1500 and WOT. Also, it drives OK under part throttle, but under WOT its slower and like I said, it just slows the rate of acceleration as I approach 5K and won't rev past that. What the hell is going on? I'm going to call JMS tomorrow, but I'm f***ing pissed right now.
 
Well that's just great!! :rolleyes: I just got done submitting the Cobra's specs to Chris at JMS and the chip should be here Monday. Maybe it's a good thing my chip is COD?

Please keep me posted as to what transpires with JMS tomorrow. Thanks!

:nice: or :notnice:?
 
I dont know anything about chips, but whenever I ve changed anything major on my car it takes a long time running at idle before everything goes back to "normal". Usually at least 20 keystarts. Im not sure if that helps...

How long have you let it idle.

When I got the majority of my work done my idle was all over and it missed under wot. I just drove it like a grandma and let it work out its own idle. It took a couple weeks before it wouldnt stall at stops.

Again I dont know if that helps, but be patient with it.
 
DougNuts said:
Are you sure you put the spout connector back in? Just a thought.

Yeah, that was one of the first things I checked.

Update: I forgot to put this in earlier, but even thought the chip ihas EGR delete built in, I haven't had time to remove the EGR yet. My EGR had to be lengthened, so the tube is cut and connected with high temp hose. Anyway, pulling into my driveway there was a very funny noise from my car, that hose has a huge hole blown in it. WTF?!?!
 
I would calm down first and not blame JMS just yet. They are VERY good at what they do. If you fry the EEC normally its the chip installers fault, not the chip maker. Are you sure you cleaned the connection exactly as described? If not you'll have all sorts of problems. Like it was said, it may take a little time for you car to "act right" so I'd give it a little time. Now your idle is at a higher rpm than before, so maybe right off the bat the EEC was running a little rich there... give the O2's some time to lean it out a bit. JMS has tuned thousands of cars and are very good at getting the tune right on the first try, however... my car is now 5-7% RICHER under WOT, not leaner. What injectors are you running?
 
Paul - I'm a little more calm now and can probably look at this a little more objectively. Anyway, I am running 24# injectors. I cleaned the connections exactly as describes, so you could just start to see the copper. I understand the fact that it may take a little but for the car to run right, but thats not the impression that I got driving it. And why the starting problems with the chip in there? Also, what do you make of my problems now that the chip is removed?
I will call JMS today and see what they say, this really sucks b/c I am going out of town today....
 
Mark, my JMS chip had very similar settings to yours. When I installed mine the car started right up perfectly and I felt the horsepower gain right away. Didn't take the computer anytime at all. I would talk to JMS and see if they sent you the right chip.

Also, I had very similar symptoms when I put a new distributor in my car. I accidently set the timing to 0 degrees instead of ten. ARe you sure you set the timing right?
 
Well the starting problem and the rich idle condition can go hand in hand. If you have to push the gas pedal in to start, typically you are running too rich at startup and by psuhing the gas pedal down you actually start delivering LESS fuel as the pulsewidth gets cut back. Call JMS and tell them about this, theycan alter the fuel crank pulsewidth so that this problem goes away, I've done it with my EEC Tuner.

I'll be surprised if you really needed leaned out with 24lb injectors under WOT.
 
I got my JMS chip about a two years ago and I can honestly say that it saved me from having to bash my car to death with a sledgehammer. I had all types of problems but as soon as that chip was installed it was as close to perfect as you can get without being able to dyno tune and burn the chip at the same time.

It idles fine and never overheats. I drove it to Atlanta and averaged 18-21 mpgs. If I could have it dyno tuned and the chip reburned at JMS there is no telling what they could do.
 
Well I just got my jms chip to fix my idle after fooling with it for a couple weeks. then i gave up and got a chip. the first time i installed it i just scraped the service port with a knife and the chip made my car sound like crap. So I took the computer apart and cleaned it more thoughly, then she worked like a charm, the car runs better than it did stock. but the idle still hangs, that may be due to my screwing with the throttle plate. JMS rocks.
 
NIN, when my car had intake/exhaust my rpms would hang really bad all the time. After my H/C swap and the JMS chip it went away. I've never touched the IAC or throttle boday, not sure if it was the chip or H/C that made it go away.