Help me build a monster

The factory 351 rods are pretty sturdy if you don't go stroker. Just have them shotpeened and magnafluxed and they will go all the way to 7500rpms no problem. You could do a 393 which would be a lot cheaper just get the stroker crank, stock rods, and 302 pistons. You need to take your time and think this through if you want to do it properly.

Don't know what you price cap is but a forged stroker kit from scat with some SRP dish pistons for around $1600. This is my plan. Would like to find one with some ROSS pistons but I haven't yet.

69Rcode_Mach1 said:

The factory 351 rods are pretty sturdy if you don't go stroker. Just have them shotpeened and magnafluxed and they will go all the way to 7500rpms no problem. You could do a 393 which would be a lot cheaper just get the stroker crank, stock rods, and 302 pistons. You need to take your time and think this through if you want to do it properly.

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the factory rods are pretty good pieces but if you're going to wing them to 7500 revs you really need some good rod bolts like ARP wavelocks or something. if you want to go with a better stock rod look for a set of 351w trucks rods from about 78 and up, they have a rounded rod bolt flange on the rod itself instead of the squared off passenger car version. the truck rods are a little bit tougher because of the rod bolts and the flange on the rod since the rounded bolt flange is less likely to develop stress cracks than the flat machined surface of the passenger car rods.

Of course ARP Hardware is a given on any kind of engine build. Especially on the bottom end of the engine. I have the rounded rods on mine and give me peice of mind with ARP rod bolts.

By all means you can go 408. It's mostly the spray on top of it that concerns me as it is pushing the limits on the block. Also drop the compression, I know that I am not the one to tell you this, but you need to. The difference is that I live at 4200ft elevation allowing me to go to 11.7:1 compression on pump gas. Gas is expensive as it is no need to buy 108 octane just to drive to school. You are at sea level and the retarding of timing cause of high compression will cause less power than if you went with lower compression it is proven. You will want to stiffen the chassis with subframes and whatnot. Believe me I am doing all that after this build. I think it would have been smarter to do the suspension first, but when your young the power appeals more.