Help me Evaluate my Clutch, PP, Flywheel Condition - Pics Inside

MattSVTContour · Feb 22, 2009

Ok, rebuilding the T5, so figured I'd check out the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate while trans was out, even though it's been working fine. Looks like I have heat marks on the pp and flywheel with some hairline cracks on the flywheel. According the previous owner, the pp and clutch are KC and only have 5k on them and flywheel was resurfaced at that point. Car has most bolt-ons, but no power adder, so we aren't talking big power.

Can you guys give me some input here on the condition and usability of the parts?

93 LX · Feb 22, 2009

It seems you have either a bad pressure plate or a oil leak getting on to the clutch. New clutch plate, pressure plate and if the flywheel cant be resurfaced then a new flywheel. Check the rear seal as well

tstang93 · Feb 22, 2009

yeh that wheel blue which prom means it slippin the hair line cracks are pretty normal for a cast iron clutch that disk looks good. But if your driving that thing hard it slippin you may have to move to a center force or some kind of proformance clucth.
If you go center force go dual friction it worth it

I see its a stock ford disk they really cant hold up to major clucth dumping they have the holding strenght and that fly wheel have it cut somwhere or get a new there 100 buck and a center force is 360 you wont regret it

parrish5o · Feb 22, 2009

The Centerforce Dual Friction is well worth the money. I've had a King Cobra and a Zoom kevlar and neither even come to the Centerforce I'm running now. By far my favoriate.

MattSVTContour · Feb 23, 2009

Thanks everybody. I did notice that the flywheel did have some oil weeping from the bolts on the clutch side, so maybe that did it. I'm doing a new main seal and checking out the PCV valve to see if it is clogged and causing the leak.

I'm leaning towards either the Centerforce DF or Ram HD. I've heard alot of good on both of those.

blackened88lx · Feb 23, 2009

I definitely believe that it only has 5k miles on it because you can clearly still see the evidence of resurfacing on the flywheel. Just something was making it get real hot obviously. When you reassemble it make sure to put a little thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. Not loctite, thread sealer. If you read the book that's what it suggests and it makes sense since the bolts are open to oil.

As far as which clutch to use I've honestly never seen anything good from the centerforce dual friction, but a lot of people have had good luck with them. My buddy went through 2 of them in probably 2k miles just on the street. Yes, everything was adjusted properly, no oil on it, etc. Put a Ram in it I believe and everything was perfect.

MattSVTContour · Feb 23, 2009

blackened88lx said:
As far as which clutch to use I've honestly never seen anything good from the centerforce dual friction, but a lot of people have had good luck with them. My buddy went through 2 of them in probably 2k miles just on the street. Yes, everything was adjusted properly, no oil on it, etc. Put a Ram in it I believe and everything was perfect.

I am looking for minimum pedal pressure and I keep hearing Centerforce is best in that regard. I know a guy with a Ram HD, so I'm going to sit in his car and see how I like that one.

93 LX · Feb 23, 2009

blackened88lx said:
When you reassemble it make sure to put a little thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. Not loctite, thread sealer. If you read the book that's what it suggests and it makes sense since the bolts are open to oil./QUOTE]

If loctite is not good to use then why does the factory use it? Use Loctite. There is a thread that covered this issue a few weeks ago.

tstang93 · Feb 23, 2009

I also know there are 3 oil jernal plugs on the back of the motor that somtimes leak thay are a square head bolt remove clean seal and tighten them up

blackened88lx · Feb 24, 2009

93 LX said:
blackened88lx said:

When you reassemble it make sure to put a little thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. Not loctite, thread sealer. If you read the book that's what it suggests and it makes sense since the bolts are open to oil./QUOTE]

If loctite is not good to use then why does the factory use it? Use Loctite. There is a thread that covered this issue a few weeks ago.

Click to expand...

I didn't say it's not good to use, I said the book suggests to use threadsealer rather than a thread locker to avoid oil seeping through the bolts.

MattSVTContour · Feb 24, 2009

I'm probably going to do both just to be sure. Thread locker on the threads and some RTV on the threads hear the head of the bolt.

Also doing the Teflon main seal. Everything else is pristine back there. The previous owner had pulled the motor and cleaned it up nicely.

85_SS_302_Coupe · Feb 24, 2009

My buddy has a Ram clutch...i have a King Cobra...his pedel is noticably lighter than mine.

I'm doing the exact same thing right now...looking at my clutch to decide if it's worth putting back in. I've got some hot spots on mine as well but the clutch disk itself looks amazingly good for having it in the car for 4 years.

MattSVTContour · Feb 24, 2009

85_SS_302_Coupe said:
My buddy has a Ram clutch...i have a King Cobra...his pedel is noticably lighter than mine.

I'm doing the exact same thing right now...looking at my clutch to decide if it's worth putting back in. I've got some hot spots on mine as well but the clutch disk itself looks amazingly good for having it in the car for 4 years.

I sat in a car with a Ram HDX last night and I would agree. However I decided to go with a Centerforce II. A little more $$$, but should be worth it. I called the CF tech line and the guy said DF would be more clutch than I need.

blackened88lx · Feb 25, 2009

MattSVTContour said:
I'm probably going to do both just to be sure. Thread locker on the threads and some RTV on the threads hear the head of the bolt.

Also doing the Teflon main seal. Everything else is pristine back there. The previous owner had pulled the motor and cleaned it up nicely.

People could argue all day on what to put on the bolts, what seal to use and how to install it. End result is it's still gonna leak like a bastard when you're done anyway.

The O.G. · Feb 25, 2009

i loved my stock clutch

if you simple bolt ons,exhaust,cai, thats what i would do
this a dd?

maybe the ram is a good choice for the money

damn kc like $300 know

MattSVTContour · Feb 26, 2009

blackened88lx said:
People could argue all day on what to put on the bolts, what seal to use and how to install it. End result is it's still gonna leak like a bastard when you're done anyway.

Man, that's what I'm afraid of.

I'm also going to put in a new PCV valve to make sure crankcase pressure can get out.

MattSVTContour · Feb 26, 2009

The O.G. said:
i loved my stock clutch

if you simple bolt ons,exhaust,cai, thats what i would do
this a dd?

maybe the ram is a good choice for the money

damn kc like $300 know

My car had the KC when I bought it. Pedal pressure was brutal and then I put in new motor mounts and without realizing it I rerouted the clutch cable to under the mount, which I've read is the best way. I noticed a huge reduction in effort.

Might become a dd, I can't decide. I've got Explorer intake, P heads, E cam, headers back exhaust, under drive pulleys, e fan, MAF, TB, pretty much anything you can do outside of a power adder.

50 Resto has a great package deal for the Ram HDX. Bearings, etc., even a steel bearing retainer for a little over $300.

The O.G. · Feb 26, 2009

for that kinda money i would buy a cent. df

if u didnt like the kc you would despise the hd motorsport clutch

MattSVTContour · Feb 26, 2009

The O.G. said:
for that kinda money i would buy a cent. df

There's no reason to. The CF II can handle more power than a 5.0 block.

The O.G. said:
if u didnt like the kc you would despise the hd motorsport clutch

I hear those are brutal. Actually I didn't mind the KC too much, I just figured since I'm replacing, go for one with lighter pressure.

MattSVTContour · Feb 26, 2009

MattSVTContour said:
I'm also going to put in a new PCV valve to make sure crankcase pressure can get out.

Update: checked tonight and the old PCV valve was caked solid shut and there was no screen. That explains the oil leak.

Help me Evaluate my Clutch, PP, Flywheel Condition - Pics Inside

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