Help Me Make Traction.....

[Steeda2004GT]

Ok I need some help from you fellow Stangers. I'm pretty sick of babying my car off of the line at the dragstrip just to get a little traction. I went to the track this week and it was barely damp and I was getting nothing. Other cars were getting traction that had more power than me too so I know it wasn't everybody. I would feather the clutch out until I could let go and then I would give it more gas and would start spinning. WTF? I couldn't even floor it through 1st or 2nd. To say the least I was getting really pissed off. I don't know if I want to put DR's on my car for a few reasons: 1. I drive my car A LOT. I drive it in the rain, sun, w/e and I don't know if I want to sacrifice my wet condition driving or my cornering. 2. I could put them on another set of rims, but would they be ok to drive at about 85mph for 45 mins to the track and 45 mins back? 3. Wouldn't they wear out quickly? Like I said before I put a lot of miles on my car and money doesn't grow on trees.

I've thought about suspension, but that isn't my thing and I don't know anything about it. I want to lower my car about .75" sometime soon, would that help my launch? I don't want an all out drag race set-up b/c I love cornering. Is there something out there that helps both? I know nothing about suspension so ANYTHING info helps me.

This is what makes me not want to do 4:10s for a while. If i'm not getting traction with 3:27s what is going to happen with 4:10s??

I know some of you would complain about the length so here's cliff notes: I need more traction, I take corners, and I drive a lot. HELP!

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Ryan02Stang]

A lowering cornering set up is only going to make your traction worse. My suggestion is get another set of rear rims, 15in prostars with a set of E/T streets on them. Only put them on when you go to the track. then you dont have to worry about wet traction.

 

[Steeda2004GT]

Would the E/T streets be ok to drive that distance to the track every other week and back? And how much would that set-up cost?

 

[scalder]

Definitely do the control arms....it will help dramatically with both traction and cornering. I would like to say get the DR's but I believe the sidewall isn't as strong and might hamper you going thru the twisties. I think this thread would be easier to answer if you had just one direction you wanted to go with the car...

 

[Steeda2004GT]

Ok nvm about the price I just looked in Jegs and the price seems payable. I can do that. Some more questions though(sorry), those are pretty serious tires, would those break anything? I don't want to break my rearend or anything. I am going to get a new rearend eventually(8 months or so) and build it up to be strong and put 4:10s in it, but would the stock rearend be ok? Oh and driveshaft?

 

[Ryan02Stang]

ET streets are fine driving on the street. Just no fast cornering or driving in rain. The wheels and tires would cost in the range of $500-600. But will EASILY knock at least 3 tenths of your quarter mile....even half a second, if youre not getting traction now.

 

[Ryan02Stang]

Some more questions though(sorry), those are pretty serious tires, would those break anything? I don't want to break my rearend or anything. I am going to get a new rearend eventually(8 months or so) and build it up to be strong and put 4:10s in it, but would the stock rearend be ok? Oh and driveshaft?

I would reccoment riding the clutch out of the hole to take some of the stress of your rear end. Its really hit of miss whether you break it or not. I have over 100+ passes on 315 drag radials dumping at 4000. Some people blow their rear end after 10 passes. I would have the money waiting in case it breaks.

 

[scalder]

I would reccoment riding the clutch out of the hole to take some of the stress of your rear end. Its really hit of miss whether you break it or not. I have over 100+ passes on 315 drag radials dumping at 4000. Some people blow their rear end after 10 passes. I would have the money waiting in case it breaks.

Broke mine on the 3rd pass w DR's....just the other side of the coin.

 

[Jackie Chan]

learn to drive. street tires+bone stock suspension is capable of 1.8s at least easy 1.9s with a decent track. If everyone around you is hooking is it the car or you??

 

[Steeda2004GT]

Ya I dunno what to do. Control arms seem to be a good idea. I looked at Steeda and Hotchkis. Which is better? Thanks for all of the replys btw.

Oh and Jackie Chan, I really didn't need a smartass remark from anyone . I asked a simple question. The best 60' I pulled was a 2.1 and that was my first time at the track. Sorry I don't have the skill of some other people, but at least I'm trying. And if you would have read thoughly, I stated that once I had the clutch completely out and would ease onto the throttle in 1st or 2nd gear the tires would spin. There is logic to what I type.

 

[Jackie Chan]

not a smart ass comment. I'm not going to sugar coat my responses. YOU NEED TO LEARN HOW TO DRIVE. Last year I didnt think my car would do any better than high 2.0s, i went away from street tires and ran stickies for quite awhile, after the last few months, I've gone from high 2.0s to 1.90s this past weekend. So if you want someone that knows wtf they are talking about to give you advice , dont cry when they tell you whats up.

 

[Jackie Chan]

also my experience on 3.27s was very limited. Everyone I know that has cut good 60's has had to ride the piss out of the clutch from about 4k to get it to 60' in the sub 2.0s

 

[Steeda2004GT]

Alrighty then well I see you're from Orlando and you probably go to Bithlo to race right? You know how ****ty that track is why don't you tell me exactly what you do when you go there and I will try it this week. What tire pressure? Do you do a burnout? Small? Large? Do you drop the clutch? Feather it? What rpms? Now that I see that you go to the same track I do more than likely I would like to learn from you.

 

[Steeda2004GT]

I'm not trying to raise any hard feelings here btw. I am just trying to learn. This is my first car with real power(1st 2 cars were both Cavaliers), and my first RWD. This car is completely different from my previous cars and trying to re-learn a launch is not that easy when you are used to something else. Wouldn't riding the clutch from 4k hurt it? I would rather put the lest amount of strain on my car as possible.

 

[Jackie Chan]

I'd be more than happy to give you some help at the track. To answer your question, Yes riding the clutch will wear it out considerably faster. But, thats the only way to pull good 60's on street tires(more so on 3.27s).
Now Bithlo has its good days and bad days. Like i said, last year i thought the track was total crap, but with some practice and a nice little burnout it does ok(really good for events though)If you really want to see the better conditions out there, run in the bracket events(quick 32 is one). You'll get 3-4 time trial passes and get some racing experience.

There are bracket races saturday, i would go but i have to work all weekend. I am going out of town on wed so i wont be there for tnt that night either. Not sure when I'll be racing agian. I really need to get the car's tune in order first.

 

[Steeda2004GT]

What are the bracket races like? I thought those were for actual fast cars not 13-14 sec cars? I might just go friday like I was going to do if the track is nice and dry that whole day. I'll try and feather the clutch out at a higher rpm if I go. I was doing at about 2500. How small of a burnout do you do? I know there is not much sense into heating up street tires but I do know that a little burnout does something and it'll clean off the dirt. I usually just drive around the water box, rev it to about 2k and drop the clutch and let them spin without the brake for about 20'. Is that all you do or do you do more?

 

[Steeda2004GT]

OOOOOOh one more thing that has been bugging me. Do you lower your tire pressure at all? I've been just using w/e was in it(I think 35). Should I lower it?

 

[Jackie Chan]

Saturday Night ET Bracket Races"
Open 3:30 PM - Time trials & qualifying 4:00 PM
Staging lanes close at the rear 6:30 PM
Eliminations follow
Sports ET- $25 Includes Admission

Sportsman E.T.
$25 Car & Driver: (10.00 and slower footbrake only)
Win-$300, R.U.-$100, S.F.-$40, Q.F.-$25
(Buy backs 1st Rd only $20)

That is the class you would race in brackets. the cars can be as quick as 10.00 or be as slow as whatever really, generally the slopwest cars are in the mid to high teens at the bracket events.


As far as a burnout, i heel toe it in 1st gear for a good 5 secs i would say. Tire pressure is usually around 25. You definately have to heat up the tires, if not they suck

 

[Jackie Chan]

BTW, if you want that bbk to sound better, get rid of those flowmasters and go with a straight through muffler.

 

[68 & 00 GT]

wonder why you're having such a hard time hooking up w/ your mods though. I ran my car 13.45 before I put my blower on on worn street tires. I only pulled 2.1 0-60' but I wasn't flooring it either. Didn't read all the posts, but don't do a burn out w/ street tires just a little spin to get dirt / rocks off, and small traction test. Try to gather that info in your head and remember that little spin when you get ready to launch. You have to really concentrate on getting off the line quickly, but smart. I usually slip the clutch but kinda quickly and roll into the gas to about 4K, and then floor it. I think when you spin through first you shift to second too early for the speed your car is going (lack of traction = car not move as fast) then when you hammer it in second at too low of a speed and it causes the tires to spin worse in second gear. Hope that made any sense. Just practice quickly slipping the cluth, and don't floor it off the line try rolling into it, and / or 2/3 throttle. My car stock hooked up very well on the stock tires. But if ya want some suggestions for traction consider the following, and you may get away w/ street tires until ya really get moded.
Strange 10 way adjustible shocks and struts ($370 delivered from Summit, and 600-700 RWHP Stangs use them, and love 'em), some rear upper and lower control arms, subframe connectors.
But IMO for you get some HP mods, work on the driving, and save this stuff for later. However just remember depnding on how much RWHP you plan to achieve someday should decide on the quality / strength of the suspension parts you buy. I would only get 410' if you plan to stay n/a. Go 373's if you may ever get a blower or something. I just ordered the Strange shocks and struts, FRPP rear uppers to go w/ my MM rear lower CA's, and will have MM full length subframes welded in with a battery relocation box, rear Nitto 275 40 DR's installed, and I'll probably unhook my front sway bar (great for weight transfer) all for the track this Sunday. Oh and I have an Eibach Pro kit too. I'll be surprised if after a burnout I couldn't bog even my car.
Hope that helped just a few ideas.