Help me set up and decide on my 347 combo
- Thread starter Grn92LX
- Start date
...may end up with the Dart 210's. Time will tell.
Thanks a lot Thomas! Thats exactly what I needed to see. Could you post a shot with the 1262 gasket when you get it? What did trickflow mean when they said ' port size at mating flange 2.38 x 1.38'?? What the fugg is the mating flange??Looks like that R lower is a perfect match to TW heads. If the gasket protrudes in the port a little, you could always cut it with a razor. Don't forget to cut out the coolant port on the gasket since it blocks the coolant port as you can see.
Cast internals are fine, they will last a lot longer then the stock block will, although I prefer the SCAT cast stuff to the Eagle.
I'd go RPM II the R is a little too much intake IMO for what your planning, stocker or not. I think the RPM II will provide you a better torque curve and make it more usable in your rpm range, your limited by the stock rev limiter. I'd suggest a 38#-42# injector (42# preferrably) and use some type of tuner, PMS would be a good choice. I datalogged my 30# with only 340RWHP and they were over 80% duty cycle.
Ed's right, gasket matching is a joke not worth the time or money, the gains are very minimal. You can not tell how good the ports are going to match by looking at someone elses photo's, the intake needs to be mocked up on YOUR OWN block for accurate readings. Decking the heads and or block changes things a good bit.
I'd give Ed or Jay a call, both will get you to your goal. There is no reason with some head and intake porting you can not reach 425RWHP, NA.
SLOWGT The 225's will be perfect on top of the 408, just don't starve the heads.
90MustangGT Almost any stroker crank can be balanced at 50oz, it just isn't the preferred method since a lot of material has to be removed. You can have the crank weights turned to remove the weight instead of making the crank a piece of swiss cheese, most good machine shops can do that for you. If you are planning on a forged internals motor the new Eagle internal balance cranks are very nice and will go "0" for the same prices as most 28oz balance jobs.
I'd go RPM II the R is a little too much intake IMO for what your planning, stocker or not. I think the RPM II will provide you a better torque curve and make it more usable in your rpm range, your limited by the stock rev limiter. I'd suggest a 38#-42# injector (42# preferrably) and use some type of tuner, PMS would be a good choice. I datalogged my 30# with only 340RWHP and they were over 80% duty cycle.
Ed's right, gasket matching is a joke not worth the time or money, the gains are very minimal. You can not tell how good the ports are going to match by looking at someone elses photo's, the intake needs to be mocked up on YOUR OWN block for accurate readings. Decking the heads and or block changes things a good bit.
I'd give Ed or Jay a call, both will get you to your goal. There is no reason with some head and intake porting you can not reach 425RWHP, NA.
SLOWGT The 225's will be perfect on top of the 408, just don't starve the heads.
90MustangGT Almost any stroker crank can be balanced at 50oz, it just isn't the preferred method since a lot of material has to be removed. You can have the crank weights turned to remove the weight instead of making the crank a piece of swiss cheese, most good machine shops can do that for you. If you are planning on a forged internals motor the new Eagle internal balance cranks are very nice and will go "0" for the same prices as most 28oz balance jobs.
Thomas302
Member
My 1262 should be here tomorrow, I will take a pic. Sorry the pics are a little blurry, I was trying to get close. I think trickflow means that it is 2.38x1.38 were the upper meets the lower, because on my intake, it is bigger there then it is where the lower meets the head. Its a nice intake. I will let you know how it works, I am probably going to step up to 4.10 gears to get some more low end, but I should make up way more on the top over my Gt-40 then I lose on the bottom. I shall see soon. Hope this helps.
Rick 91GT said:
I thought so too when I bought them, but it's taking me so long to get everything together that I've been having time to second guess. Thanks for the vote of confidence Rick. I'm topping them with an TFS-R lower and a Reichard's box upper. Feeding with an 80mm TB and an 80mm MAF meter. Looking for around 630-650 fwhp.
Thomas302 said:
Yes, that makes sense. It looks like the R lower is a near perfect match to my TW head which is good. I do like the trickflow stuff and I like keeping it all one brand. I emailed Jay again to see exactly what he thinks for an intake for my car. I am pretty set on the R and i've seen them for like $490 which IMO is a killer price. Fox lake has it for $479 and I will see if summit will price match it.
What kind of port work should I be looking to have done?
Jay told me the 1 3/4" header is a must.
Any other comments?
Rick 91GT said:Nice combowhat size header are you going to use? 1.875" ?
Yep. Kooks. I must be the slowest in the world. I took the car off the road last July (2003) and it still isn't together.
My car has been apart since October 2002, started off just building a new 408" street motor, then decided to gear it more towards a NMRA Drag Radial combo.
Built the 408, switched heads and cam before it even ran, switched from EFI to carb, agian before it ran..Sold it all. Started concentrating more on a NMRA set-up, race block, billet crank, etc.. small cube N2O motor, then after seeing the N2O motors not competing sold off the N2O stuff and got a big ole Procharger.
Oh, and my car is almost a 25.5 SFI cert'd chassis car, should be out for next season if all goes right.
Started off build a high 8 sec, low 9 sec car, now I am gearing towards 8.0's.
Built the 408, switched heads and cam before it even ran, switched from EFI to carb, agian before it ran..Sold it all. Started concentrating more on a NMRA set-up, race block, billet crank, etc.. small cube N2O motor, then after seeing the N2O motors not competing sold off the N2O stuff and got a big ole Procharger.
Oh, and my car is almost a 25.5 SFI cert'd chassis car, should be out for next season if all goes right.
Started off build a high 8 sec, low 9 sec car, now I am gearing towards 8.0's.
Rick 91GT said:
Glad to see I'm not the only one. My initial goal was 11's on street tires (not DR's or cheaters). Then somebody told me that I'd fit into DR...if I wanted to switch to an auto. So now I guess it's just going to be a crazy street car. The only thing left to play in is Wild Street...and I can only hope for a lucky break to be the 'King'. Most of the winners this year were in the 9's with a few in the 8's
Yeah Rick, I am going with jay for a cam. I will use what he says is needed. I did tell him I wont use a victor intake since it doesn't have egr ports on it though.
I emailed AFM and they told me the N81 with a Holley intake will work good for me. I think Jay is my best bet.
Mike
I emailed AFM and they told me the N81 with a Holley intake will work good for me. I think Jay is my best bet.
Mike
After talking with Jay I am dead set on the TFS R. He told me the holley would make the low end I want, but he recommended I build the engine to make power. He mentioned being able to down shift to second when a zo6 or something pulls up and pull away from it and he said that would be how the R will kill the holley. He said I should also take it to 6500 when needed which I will do. Now I just need to know what he thinks if I should have my heads ported or not. I emailed mike curcio race products in pennsylvania. He gave me some nice prices and said he could get them to flow 285/210.
I did also see a graph of an afm N91 cam, afr 185 heads and a holley intake. car made 416hp/408 tq. The curves were good to and the low end was decent for that 'hi rev' cam. It peaked at like 5800 and then went down.
I did also see a graph of an afm N91 cam, afr 185 heads and a holley intake. car made 416hp/408 tq. The curves were good to and the low end was decent for that 'hi rev' cam. It peaked at like 5800 and then went down.
Mike and Joe @ MCRP are good smart guys that will get you moving, they will work close with Jay to get the car running great based on the cam....
I saw similar results with the AFM cam, once it peaked the power steadily dropped off. I have seen other custom cams that peak and hold the power much longer.
So are you going to buy a PMS so you can raise the rev limiter?
I saw similar results with the AFM cam, once it peaked the power steadily dropped off. I have seen other custom cams that peak and hold the power much longer.
So are you going to buy a PMS so you can raise the rev limiter?
Thomas302
Member
How much torque do you think the R is down on the Holley through the power band and up on Hp. I have seen the numbers on a few dyno graphs on the R and it make good tq from 2500 on up but I have never seen the holley dyno. Example, If the R is down say 10fps of torque through the power band, but up 20hp, that would be a good trade, but if its the oposite( down 20tq and up only 10hp, that would not be a good trade right? I have a motorsport extender so I dont have to worrie about the limiter, and my cam will make good power to at least 6300 and peak about 6100 if I dont have valve float. I think I will be okay with the 4.10. Just trying to get all the info I can. Sounds like you have done some good homework, not like me were 2 years ago I build this motor, and now I am trying to change it for more power because I did no homework back then. 
I do not know how much you'd be giving up down low. I would guess you*might* give up a little torque below 2500, but I just dont think its enough to worry about. I think with the extra iches and more compression I will still make much more tq down low than my 302 does even with the 'big' R intake.
Can you show me those R graphs you saw?
Rick, no I dont plan on buying a pms. That tuning stuff is a bit over my head, though, if I found a used one at a good price I would consider it. I would be asking guys like yourself millions of questions though
If not, I would try another chip or buy a used fms extender.
Can you show me those R graphs you saw?
Rick, no I dont plan on buying a pms. That tuning stuff is a bit over my head, though, if I found a used one at a good price I would consider it. I would be asking guys like yourself millions of questions though
If not, I would try another chip or buy a used fms extender.Here is a 347 graph I have on my computer of ported afr 185's by neil erickson, TFS R intake 1 3/4" longtubes and a comp cams custom solid roller. This thing makes lots of torque down low.
http://www.mustangcentral.net/neil/customers/jeff/jeff347.jpg
Red line is a nitrous pull and blue is n/a pull.
http://www.mustangcentral.net/neil/customers/jeff/jeff347.jpg
Red line is a nitrous pull and blue is n/a pull.
