HELP!! New Engine Won't Run

[dastang2]

you don't have to degree the cam, i didn't even though i want to soon. mine cranked right up.

 

[Michael Yount]

dastang - we're eliminating possibilities on one that won't start. If the cam was degreed correctly, then we can eliminate that as a possibility. If it wasn't, then we really don't know what the cam timing is. The fact that yours started up shouldn't lead anyone to the conclusion that one shouldn't degree the cam on install. It's the only way to know for certain that the cam timing is exactly where you want it to be.

 

[dastang2]

what kind of timing set do you have. a stock replacement or a 3 key set

 

[89stang10sec]

sorry I missed all the replies, i have been at work. It is raining right now but I am going to mess with the car in the morning. Hopefully it is something to do with the timing. I installed the cam straight up (dot to dot), it is a ford racing chain/set 3 key. I will let you guys know tommorrow morning if i make any progress. Thanks so much for all your help--i have no one else to turn to.

 

[89stang10sec]

I will be checking back all night to see if you guys have any other ideas, thanks again.

 

[89stang10sec]

Just to clarify - there are TWO top dead centers for each full cycle; you have to stab the distributor at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. If you stab it at TDC during overlap (end of exhaust stroke, beginning of intake stroke), then you'll be 180 degrees off and the engine will do just what you're describing.

Pull the pass. valve cover. Rotate the engine until the timing pointer is coming around to TDC AND both valves are closed. THat's TDC on the compression stroke. Rotate the engine until the pointer is at 12 or 14 degrees before TDC -- that's where you want your timing set for initial start up. Stab the dist. with the rotor pointing as closely to the #1 plug wire as you can. If that's what's causing your problem, it should fire right up. When it does get a timing light on it and set the timing with the spout out engine warm - I'd try 14 btdc with your set up.

OK- I tried this and I now know for sure the distributor is stabbed correctly, but iam still getting the same problem. I also tried some starting fluid, the engine popped a little bit more but thats it, didn't even seem like it wanted to fire up.

I have been over the entire engine compartment and everything seems to be in order. the only thing that i questioned was two wires near the solienoid. one is black and the other is black with a green stripe. I forgot to mark where these went when i pulled them out of the way to paint that area, but i think they were grounds.

 

[89stang10sec]

Also I have autolite 23's gapped .35 installed since this motor will see 175hp nitrous shot after break in. Could this be an issue?

 

[dastang2]

i think those are grounds. do you hear the fuel pump prime itself when you turn the key to the run position, if not check your relays. i wonder if your computer is bad.

 

[89stang10sec]

I got her runnin!!!!!! I checked the distributor one more time, this time my friend helped me and it was 180 out. I don't know how i missed this twice??I just want to say thanks to all of you who took the time to help me out. That is what this "hobby" or should i say "lifestyle" is all about. I hope someday i can return the favor. I'll post my dyno numbers after break-in period

 

[Blue Thunder]

Glad to see you got it running.

For future reference;
When installing the distributor, just remove the #1 spark plug, put your thumb over the hole, and use a bump switch (or have someone turn the key for you) to bump the motor over until you feel air blast out of the hole. That indicates #1 compression stroke. Now poke in there with a long skinny screwdriver and turn the motor by hand until you feel the piston come up to its peak height. Now you can drop the distributor in place, making sure the rotor is facing the #1 terminal.
Nothing fancy, just a thumb and a screwdriver will work nicely.