Help please! I dont know what to do!

deadlast

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
495
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Belmont, MA
my car idles for sh1t, and feels slow. My rpms are hanging between shifts, and almost pulling my car when im cruising when im not pushing the gas. My engine shakes alot at idle, and the exhaust sounds very choppy. Also at idle, my tensioner pully (whole arm) is moving back and forth, signifcantly. I tried upping my timing, but so far that hasnt helped. also at idle, all my instruments, and headlights dim. Im guessing its because my car is idling so slow the alt isnt getting enough power. what could be wrong?? harmonic balancer seems to be moving from side to side as well (still in line of belt, but almost like its ovalized) Im so pissed off right now I dont know what to do.
 
oh and if i accelerate quickly in 2nd or 3rd (not flooring) check engine light will come on, and the battery light will come one randomly. Bat light turns off randomly, check engine light turns off after iv come to a complete stop for around 2 seconds
 
It sounds like you have a combination of problems. The balancer one is easy, since it just sounds like you need a new one, if that one's wobbling around like you said. The electrical one is more difficult, however. First thing in the way of diagnosing it is that you need to pull the codes, and see what the CEL is being caused by. That could be as simple as a sensor being out of its normal operating limits, and could definitely cause the problems you're experiencing. From a casual observation, I'd be leaning toward the IAC and TPS voltages right from the start, but the only way to really know is to pull codes.
 
A - Time for a new balancer ASAP!
B - Does your shifter shake a lot in 3rd at low rpms with your foot mashed? If so, probably time for new motor mounts. Bad mounts will do all kinds of wierd things.
C - Check all your grounds.
 
I am with all the guys so far.

A thorough once-over is needed before any new variables are introduced (like playing with timing, etc).

I would pull codes first.

I would remove the accessory belt and spin each pulley/accessory pulley by hand and see if one is hanging up.

Agreed all the way with the balancer - replace it yesterday if the elastomer is cracked, or it is truly wobbling (it kind of hypnotizes me to watch one spin at idle, so I second-guess myself as to whether it is wobbling). And NOTE that your timing change could be completely off, if the outer ring slipped (I wont change timing if a bad balancer is suspected). So recheck that once a new one is installed, if a new one is indeed needed.

What is your hot idle speed? You can up the idle setting via the stop screw or bleed screw (I recommend the former - see why in a minute). Check the TPS if you crank the stop screw a ways, just to note what your new baseline is.

It kinda sounds like you might have a vac leak. I would give it a once over and check your hot idle vac reading. It should be near 20" hg for a stock-ish motor. The possibility of a leak is why I would not adjust the idle via the bleed screw on the IAC (too many vacuum variables. Besides, I have done both adjustments and personally prefer to adjust the idle with the stop screw). If the bleed is run too far out, it will act like a vac leak.

That's all I got for now. Good luck.
 
deadlast said:
ill get a video of the HB tomorrow, to see what you guys think. Noob question.... where can i go to get my codes pulled?
In your driveway with a paperclip. :D

Here is some info about doing so. (Note that the STC is on the pass side of the engine compartment on a 5N95).

Good luck.
 
deadlast said:
ill get a video of the HB tomorrow, to see what you guys think. Noob question.... where can i go to get my codes pulled?


Spend the time u would getting that video and REPLACE IT! These guys arent joking man. We already know it should be replaced by the description. A GOOD balancer should spin on a DIME. It shouldnt lose that line of a circle at ALL!
 
I like Pioneer balancers, and the PP unit from LRS gets very good reviews (I would have ordered it, but it was back ordered). Both are under 100 beans. Some parts stores reportedly carry one or the other (none around me have either).

I would not go with a replacement Ford piece, but that is just me (there are others, like listed above, for the same money that I would feel better using).

Good luck.
 
I have had good luck with my Pioneer hb. :D

I have seen some peeps on another site talk about going through three oem hb's before finally stepping up to a more quality part. :bang:

Learn from their hose up and don't make the same mistake :nice:

Grady
 
HISSIN50 said:
I am with all the guys so far.


Agreed all the way with the balancer - replace it yesterday

.

It kinda sounds like you might have a vac leak. I would give it a once over and check your hot idle vac reading. It should be near 20" hg for a stock-ish motor. The possibility of a leak is why I would not adjust the idle


after replacing your hb check yor timing since you said you bumped it up, it could be way out with that spun balencer you took the reading from. Try starting at 10 btd and go from their
Same thought came across my mind with the hanging idle.
check for vacum leaks and pull the codes.
did you already adjust you idle screw? With the bad balancer and you playing with the timing and idle screw s*!^ could be quite out of wack. Good luck
 
Quote from Hissin50 in Post 17:

"after replacing your hb check yor timing since you said you bumped it up, it could be way out with that spun balencer you took the reading from. Try starting at 10 btd and go from their."

I don't think I said this. It sounds like a paraphrase or augmentation of what I did say though. ;)
 
HB, as mentioned.
Also, a thought... You mentioned the tensioner. If it's slipping and jumping around, it could be broke. I had this on my Explorer and i had the batt. light come on anything over 3k rpms. Not hard to replace, especially after doing the balancer.