help please

10strokin

New Member
Dec 23, 2009
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hello, i am new here, but am pretty well versed in mechanical knowledge. i have a 93 lx 2.3. it was lacking power and running rough in gear when i got it. ran code scanner on it and it came up with mass air flow sensor, and memory codes of map sensor on firewall. replaced air filter, maf sensor, fuel filter, and plug wires tonight. too kit for a drive and it seemed to be more responsive and when i came to a stoplight, it wasnt running real rough anymore. however when i shut it off and tried to restart, it cranked and cranked and would not start. i pushed accelerator all the way to floor and tried to start that way, and it caught finally on a couple cylinders, then cleared itself up. shut off again and it did same thing. any ideas? this is my daily and only driver. thanks guys.
 
i have 1 update. after i start it in this condition, it idles and sounds like it has a burned exhaust valve out the tailpie, kind of a miss. now, i restarted it a couple more times and it started if you held accelerator all the way down. last time it started right up beautifully by itself and settled into a smooth idle with no missing out the tailpie. so it doesnt do it all the time now. what gives?
 
It sounds like you may have an ignition coil going bad on you. You shouldn't hold the gas down when you try to start it. You can break the nose cone off your starter doing that. Hope this helps.
 
i definately believe it is a fuel problem, but it is slowly getting better. thanks for the info. is there any way to check the coil packs? do u have any other pics of your car posted? it looks awesome! thanks, matt
 
-Welcome,

---Could be coil as said. Troubleshooting/testing coil primary & secondary voltage is covered in any service/repair manual and if all you have is a Chilton, pay more attention to illustrations than words, since that's about all they're good for. Doesn't matter what year/make/model it is for, just know what terminal feeds what and that your coil is a high-output. Usual tests include a multimeter for Ohms(Ω)/Resistance and a test light with long leads. I find it best to run the tests once when cold and once when at OT. More often a coil shorts when it's hot, but that goes for all electronics, as current meets less resistance in cold environment.

---MAP sensor would cause erratic idle, often from the curb of 900±RPM to 1200±RMP and back down, constantly. Though there is a particular voltage that is read when you jump two out of three terminals and put a voltmeter across the third pair, and I don't know what that voltage would be, it should be easily found through a search on google if not here.

---What are the fault codes you are receiving and how are you acquiring them?

---Other than being out of time (or a stretched timing belt), off hand all I can think of is adjusting the TPS. Need a voltmeter for this and the best instructions I have found to be here because it is a simple walk-through and though instructions can be found on this site as well as many other places, the way it is described on turbotbird seemed to be pretty much in order to my eye.

---Check vacuum lines, electrical connections, PCV valve and cleaning the MAF sensor. Check back and let us know what you find.