Help Reading CEL Light

Not having it pinned correctly fries ECUs. You can’t stick a 5-spd ECU into an original AOD car without repinning it first.

Needs to match the below diagram based on year and ECU.
IMG_6299.webp



More info here

 
  • Like
Reactions: Mhalc1
Not having it pinned correctly fries ECUs. You can’t stick a 5-spd ECU into an original AOD car without repinning it first.

Needs to match the below diagram based on year and ECU.
IMG_6299.webp



More info here

So I chose to go back with my ecu in the interest of time… I opened it up to see if I could see any bulging caps but everything looked ok.

If I would have read this before I decided to go with the original I would have given this a shot, I’ll try it another time.

Hopefully I didn’t fry the a3m I’ll open it up to make sure I didn’t fry the trace.
 
Update, sorry it takes so long to do things but im staying focused. I actually tried adjusting my brake booster pushrod and ended up having it to tight and the booster started leaking. i swaped it out for another used booster that turned out to be leaking as well. so i had to replace it with another booster and finally its not leaking.

I decided to repin the o2 harness to get the a3m working but i still had a solid check engine light and a solid light while pulling codes. I feel like i may have burned the ecu. I repinned it back for my a9l and called it a day. I did just get an innova code reader today to pull the intermittent code from my a9l. i got the same 15 and 94 and 44 with the koer. I will check to make sure air is getting to the cats when the engine is warm. I do have explorer heads so i dont have wholes for the thermactor tube. I just drilled and tapped screw wholes just to pass visual.

I am still stumped with the intermittent light at acceleration, and feel like the 15 memory code is way i cant read the codes. I think i will do a base idle reset, smoke test my intake and vacuum lines and maybe check my timing. I need to pass CA smog and would like to do it legit as it has passed smog twice before and the last time it passed with a seized smog pump.
 
If you do not have a chip on the ECU and you are getting a 15 it’s time to send it for repair.
Im open to getting it repaired once i can get my other car up and running, in the meantime has anyone seen a schematic for the a9p or an a3m? to see if i indeed fried the a3m I will try to follow the traces from pin 1 on my a9p to see if i can find the problem on the board.