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Brakes Help!! Rear Brakes Won't Bleed After Adj Pv Install

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangboy
  • Start date Start date Mar 12, 2017
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stangboy

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Mar 12, 2017
#1
  • Mar 12, 2017
  • #1
Hey guys I can't get my rear brakes to bleed after installing a ford Racing adj PV. I gutted the stock PV like I'm supposed to. Am I missing something? I have 96 Cobra brakes up front and drums in the back.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Mar 12, 2017
#2
  • Mar 12, 2017
  • #2
  • did you install the adj PV valve the right way
  • did you adjust the knob on the adj PV as per the instructions
  • what do you mean you "can't get the rears to bleed"..
 

stangboy

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Mar 13, 2017
#3
  • Mar 13, 2017
  • #3
We FINALLY got the system bled. It was slow and methodical but I think I need to hook the vacuum canister that's in the right fender back up because I think the cam may not be producing quite enough vacuum. I'll be doing that today. Hopefully that will give me sufficient braking. Right now I have to pump them to stop good.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#4
  • Mar 13, 2017
  • #4
When you bled the brakes, did you open the adjustable PV up to full pressure to the rears while bleeding?
 
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MFE92

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Aug 25, 2010
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Mar 13, 2017
#5
  • Mar 13, 2017
  • #5
And did you install the FRPP M-2450-A solid pug in the factory PV? If you didn't air can get in the hole in the factory plug where the PV guts usually seat, and you will tear your hair out trying to figure out why you need to keep bleeding the rear brakes.
 

stangboy

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#6
  • Mar 13, 2017
  • #6
Mustang5L5 said:
When you bled the brakes, did you open the adjustable PV up to full pressure to the rears while bleeding?
Click to expand...
Yes
 

stangboy

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Mar 13, 2017
#7
  • Mar 13, 2017
  • #7
MFE92 said:
And did you install the FRPP M-2450-A solid pug in the factory PV? If you didn't air can get in the hole in the factory plug where the PV guts usually seat, and you will tear your hair out trying to figure out why you need to keep bleeding the rear brakes.
Click to expand...
I bought the solid plug that MM sells.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Mar 13, 2017
#8
  • Mar 13, 2017
  • #8
Have you ever changed the flexible hose to the axel housing?
They can get goofy and close up with age causing pressure problems.
 

stangboy

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Mar 14, 2017
#9
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #9
karthief said:
Have you ever changed the flexible hose to the axel housing?
They can get goofy and close up with age causing pressure problems.
Click to expand...
I actually bought a new one but I couldn't get the hard lines off without damaging the fittings...even using a flare wrench. That was gonna be my next move if we wouldn't have gotten the system bled. I had a time flaring the lines where I put the adjustable PV because I had to replace the fittings with longer ones.

I hooked up the vacuum canister last night so I'll see if that helped.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#10
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #10
What exactly is the issue? Do you get fluid flow when you crack the rear bleeders?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#11
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #11
Does that canister have anything to do with the brakes?
If you have manifold vac to booster and it works, pumping the brakes would be a line pressure problem.
 

stangboy

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#12
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #12
Mustang5L5 said:
What exactly is the issue? Do you get fluid flow when you crack the rear bleeders?
Click to expand...
Yeah, we finally got the system bled Sunday evening but the pedal is still mushy I have to actually pump the brakes to stop at very low speeds...like 10 mph. So we're think the cam may be pulling too much vacuum.
 

stangboy

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#13
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #13
karthief said:
Does that canister have anything to do with the brakes?
If you have manifold vac to booster and it works, pumping the brakes would be a line pressure problem.
Click to expand...
Well I sure hope the booster isn't bad because I don't have time to change that before I leave tomorrow to go to TX2K17. If I can't get the brakes right today I just won't be able to take the car.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#14
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #14
stangboy said:
Yeah, we finally got the system bled Sunday evening but the pedal is still mushy I have to actually pump the brakes to stop at very low speeds...like 10 mph. So we're think the cam may be pulling too much vacuum.
Click to expand...

With the engine off, does the pedal get rock hard within a few pumps? If not, you still have air in the lines somewhere.

You really can't have too much vacuum. There's only so much air you can take out of a space. Usually with a lack of vacuum, you get no assist and the pedal is hard. With a cam pulling good vacuum, once you evacuate the booster, that's it. Any cam should be able to empty it. The wild card is how fast it can do so.

So...mushy pedal requiring a few pumps..i'm suspecting air.

You left the stock MC correct?
 

stangboy

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#15
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #15
Mustang5L5 said:
With the engine off, does the pedal get rock hard within a few pumps? If not, you still have air in the lines somewhere.

You really can't have too much vacuum. There's only so much air you can take out of a space. Usually with a lack of vacuum, you get no assist and the pedal is hard. With a cam pulling good vacuum, once you evacuate the booster, that's it. Any cam should be able to empty it. The wild card is how fast it can do so.

So...mushy pedal requiring a few pumps..i'm suspecting air.

You left the stock MC correct?
Click to expand...
Yes the pedal gets rock hard with the car off. I put my buddy's MC out of his 93(he converted to hydroboost) to see if it was possibly the reason the system wouldn't bleed. But I was having the same problem so I'm thinking mc wasn't the problem...yes I bench bled it first.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Mar 14, 2017
#16
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #16
Is his 93 MC the cobra MC? Or a stock disk/drum setup?

I think you said you are running rear drums correct? With that said, you cannot swap the MC to one of the 4 wheel disk MC's as the bore is entirely too large. The result will be an extremely soft pedal.

With the 96 cobra fronts, and rear drums. A stock 3-port MC is what you want to run.
 

stangboy

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#17
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #17
Mustang5L5 said:
Is his 93 MC the cobra MC? Or a stock disk/drum setup?

I think you said you are running rear drums correct? With that said, you cannot swap the MC to one of the 4 wheel disk MC's as the bore is entirely too large. The result will be an extremely soft pedal.

With the 96 cobra fronts, and rear drums. A stock 3-port MC is what you want to run.
Click to expand...
THAT, sir, is the million dollar question. It was on the car when he bought it....but it did already have 4-wheel disc brakes. How do I identify the Cobra mc?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Mar 14, 2017
#18
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #18
2 lines connected to the MC...or 3?
 

stangboy

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Mar 14, 2017
#19
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #19
Mustang5L5 said:
2 lines connected to the MC...or 3?
Click to expand...
3
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,255
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Mar 14, 2017
#20
  • Mar 14, 2017
  • #20
Then it's a stock disk/drum MC and correct.

Did you bench bleed it?
 
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