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Help with a 95 5L crank no start

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheBubbaJoe
  • Start date Start date Nov 4, 2025
  • Tags Tags
    help 5.0 gt sn95 gt 5.0
T

TheBubbaJoe

New Member
Nov 4, 2025
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kansas
Nov 4, 2025
#1
  • Nov 4, 2025
  • #1
I have a 1995 GT 5.0L mustang that i’ve been chasing a issue. it went away after i changed the ignition module. it’s now come back and bit me in the butt. I started the car and drove to get gas. when I tried to start the car again the car would crank but not start. if i kept at it it would start idle rough for a second and die. I tried putting a new ignition module in again since this issue is similar to the last time but that didn’t work.
i ended up having it towed to a shop.

this i what the tech notes said:
technition notes. Engine cranks perfectly fine and starts. Drove the vehicle into the shop and let it run while we checked fluid levels and basic inspection. Shut the engine off and restarted. Engine ran for a second and died. Engine cranks, restarts and dies and check engine light is on now. Installed a fuel gauge to check fuel pressure. Found fuel pressure is 38 KOER. Fuel pressure specification is 35-45. The engine will only stay running if the RPM is held up. The vehicle runs perfect until you shut the engine off and try to restart it. Then the engine does not want to start when it does start it won't idle it just dies. When vehicle does not start the fuel pressure is good, The ignition system is firing a good spark to the plugs and the injectors are getting signal. The vehicle appears to be dumping fuel upon cranking. The vehicle will start and run as long as you continue to open the throttle. All the sensors remain within good specifications. Will need to remove the PCM and perform pin out testing on each and every sensor input and output at the PCM.

the shop thinks the PCM is messing up and not sending the right signal for fuel but to me that doesn’t make sense. does anyone have any ideas.

the engine is stock apart from the follwing parts i’ve recently replaced.
1. MAF
2. idle control valve
3.ignition module
4.fuel filter
5 battery
6. all vacuum lines
7.all rubber coolant lines.
Any advice would be great thanks in advance
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Claremore, OK
Nov 4, 2025
#2
  • Nov 4, 2025
  • #2
Okay, have they even checked the ECU for codes? Even if the check engine light (CEL) is off there can still be codes as the CEL only comes on with emissions related codes. My money is on the ECU being bad and needing to shipped off for repair but you need to direct your tech to this forum and more specifically this thread:

Thread 'Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs'

May 22, 2006
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995

A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. Jumping around will possibly cause you to miss just what you need to see to find and fix the problem. Don’t skip any steps because the next step depends on the last step working correctly.


Revised 26-Jul-2017 to add fuse link diagram.

All text applies to...
  • jrichker
  • Replies: 93
  • Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

jrichker and others put a lot of effort into this tech thread and it has fixed hundreds of our cars. Just so you know, jrichker passed away so if you try and message him or ask him a question there will not be a response.

Biggest thing here is if they try an pull codes and do not get at least an 11 on the KOEO then the ECU is probably bad. This is due to Code 11 meaning the test passed.

This is probably the best code scanner for the garage mechanic:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW
 
T

TheBubbaJoe

New Member
Nov 4, 2025
2
0
1
kansas
Nov 5, 2025
#3
  • Nov 5, 2025
  • #3
AeroCoupe said:
Okay, have they even checked the ECU for codes? Even if the check engine light (CEL) is off there can still be codes as the CEL only comes on with emissions related codes. My money is on the ECU being bad and needing to shipped off for repair but you need to direct your tech to this forum and more specifically this thread:

Thread 'Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs'

May 22, 2006
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995

A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. Jumping around will possibly cause you to miss just what you need to see to find and fix the problem. Don’t skip any steps because the next step depends on the last step working correctly.


Revised 26-Jul-2017 to add fuse link diagram.

All text applies to...
  • jrichker
  • Replies: 93
  • Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

jrichker and others put a lot of effort into this tech thread and it has fixed hundreds of our cars. Just so you know, jrichker passed away so if you try and message him or ask him a question there will not be a response.

Biggest thing here is if they try an pull codes and do not get at least an 11 on the KOEO then the ECU is probably bad. This is due to Code 11 meaning the test passed.

This is probably the best code scanner for the garage mechanic:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW
Click to expand...
I have that scanner and when this problem happened before I would get the 11 code. this time around The OBD1 scanner goes through the check sequence but just displays 0000 when it’s done. The shop told me the only codes that they saw were related to fords automatic transmission which they thought was weird since it’s a manual. i’ll definitely read this thread.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,845
3,975
183
Claremore, OK
Nov 5, 2025
#4
  • Nov 5, 2025
  • #4
These ECU’s only have two digit codes. You either have a wiring problem or a bad ECU or both.
 
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