Help with alot of questions.......

[CivicEater]

To start off....I got my car back finally It turned out that the shop wouldnt look at it till I replaced the alternator and batt (I knew the alt was crap because I broke mine messin with it last week so I got one from a junkyard and autozone said it was crap)....so today I got one from alterstart and put it in along with a new battery and no more fuse blowing ......
Now for the problems..

1) I installed my man fan switch and it works perfectly but the car still running like 235....It will slowly warm up to 180 (over mabye 5 mins) then when it hits 180 BAM it shoots right to 200 in 10 seconds and then onto 220.....this is all with the fan on HIGH. I was worried HeadGasket (The ungodly thought gives me chills) but there is no oil in coolant and and I am not losing any coolant. Also the car isnt smoking. I thought today I might have noticed a slight drop in power but I cant really tell since I havent driven her in weeks..It will hover around 220 till I start crusing highway speed and it will creep up. if I slow down and go 30ish the temps drop slightly to like 215 but within a few mintues they rise again. I can only think mabye the thermos stuck mostly closed. It hit 245 today so I shut her down and let the fan cool her till I could get her cooled. Anythoughts?

2) I just put in a new alterstart 135amp 3G alternator today and it charges worse than my stock alt with an underdrive pulley .... wtf....Before it would site right around R at lights and now it barely hits the O. Even at highway speeds its barely O.....I am pissed becuase I cant afford to get a new one and night driving is awful with half way powered headlights.

I have more questions but I totally just blanked out.....I will post them when I rmeber them but for now please help me get my car to stay nice and cool.....I cant afford a HG blowing right now.

 

[CivicEater]

Remebered my other 2

3) If I am getting a reading of 25 PSI on my A/C but the compressor isnt kicking on that is screaming pressure switch right? There are two right? which is the more common to go?

4) My speedo cable broke at the little plastic peice holding it to the TB bracket.....I dont see how I can replace it without replacing the whole cable.....where does that cable lead anyway?

Thanks for all the help on all the questions guys

 

[CivicEater]

wow.....you guys are killing me

 

[mo_dingo]

Take your car to the junk yard man!

J/K........As for problem #1 - Hook up a vacuum gauge and see what you get. That should tell you if you have a head gasket leak. When did the overheating start? Was it after the installation of something? Anything significant?

#2 - No idea. Try the regular pulley. See what happens? Just a blind guess on my part.

#3 - If you have r-134a in the system, then the pressure switch could be bad. Or your a/c clutch could be bad. Here is how you tell. I think the a/c clutch is magnetic, just like the one on my old chevy truck. There is a electrical plug, which plugs into the clutch. It's 2 wires. Disconnect the plug, start the car, turn the knob to a/c, and see if you are getting any current. If you are getting current, then your a/c clutch is bad.

They aren't cheap. Turn off the car, hook up the connector, then start the car again. A little trick would be to engage the clutch manually. It's not smart, but it will kick on the compressor, and you should be getting cold air. Just push the outside of the clutch towards the compressor. It shouldn't take much to get it to engage. If the a/c works, then you know the clutch is bad. Turn the car off, and disengage the clutch. You don't want it on 24/7, that is bad for the compressor.

Now, if you aren't getting any voltage at the clutch, that means that either the pressure switch is bad, the a/c / heater control box is bad, or you don't have any r-134a. Since you hooked up a pressure gauge, you know you have freon. Here is a trick. Disconnect the pressure switch from the receiver/dryer. Then use a jumper wire, and connect both poles. If the pressure switch is bad, then the jumper wire will make the clutch engage and you should get cold air. If it doesn't turn on, then the switch is likely good.

If there is two pressure switches in the system (I have no clue), you will need to use the jumper wire for both of them. See if it turns on; If using the jumper wire on the second one allows the a/c to turn on, then the 2nd one is definately bad. Disconnect the jumper wire from the first switch, and reconnect the switch to the receiver dryer. If the a/c kick on still, you know the pressure switch at the R/D is good. If it doesn't kick on, then both pressure switches are bad.

Now, if you bypass both switches, and the a/c doesn't turn on, then you should test to see if you are getting current to the a/c clutch (just in case). If you are getting current, then you know the a/c clutch is bad too. This is unlikely, but possible. Who knows what can happen. If you are still not getting current, then likely the pressure switches are still good. But leave the jumper wires in there anyway, just in case.

Next, if bypassing the switches does nothing, and you aren't getting current to the clutch, then the heater / a/c control box might be bad. Find which wire is suppoesed to be hot when you turn the switch to "a/c", and see if you are getting current. Use the negative terminal on the battery, or a known good ground source. Then hook up the positive end to the wire coming from the a/c control box. See if you are getting current. If you are, then I am extremely confused, and who knows what is wrong. If you aren't, then the control box is broken. Either dissassemble and fix, or replace. You could use a 12V + source in place of the wire from the control box. That will tell you 100% sure that the control box is bad.

Sheesh!!!

Your speedo cable shouldn't hook up to your Throttle body. Do you mean your throttle cable? The speedo cable goes from the transmission to the speedometer in the dash. Has nothing to do with the throttle body.
Scott

 

[JJ95GTID]

Speedo cable? The 94-95 speedo is electric . Maybe you talking about the cruise control or throttle cable

I recently went throught A/C troubles. I could read voltage at the A/C compressor connector (14.7Volts) but it still would not engage the compressor clutch. Turned out to be the black pressure switch that is mounted to the canister that is mounted to the firewall on the passanger side. It has a two wire connector. Its like $16.00 at Autozone. You can test it by pulling the connector off the switch and jumper the connector plug with a wire and see if the A/C comes on.

The other pressure switch is the green one. It is located next to the radiator on the passenger side next to the CCRM. It has a four wire connector. Didn't mess with this one and don't think that trying to jump it is a good idea without a wiring schematic since it does have four wires.

 

[CivicEater]

Yea sorry I meant Cruise aControl cable.....Overheating has been happening since my HCI but it usually doesnt go over 230, then I ad the whole fuel pump issue, put in a new alternator and batt and it is touching 250. I just pulled my thermo and it is opening like it should, but when I undid the top rad hose there was alot of pressure built up in there.....mabye I didnt burp it good enough?