Help with Codes...?

[Mavrick]

Warmed the car up and read the codes.. (got the car up to 160 before i shut it off) and this is what i got.. KOEO

82
2 3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
OR - AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
OR - 3 8L SC - Super Charger Bypass Solenoid - Solenoids

54
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT


What is my next step in fixing these?


Note that my air pump is not hooked up. All lines etc are hooked up, but im waiting on a belt. I moved the two vacuum solenoids? that were behind the passenger side fender, and tucked them inside the fender. I may have mixed up the vacuum lines between those two pieces.

 

[HISSIN50]

With the IAT, you can clean, replace or ohm it out. Jrichker has posted the values for it at various temps (it is a thermistor). It should be a cheap sensor if desiring to just replace it.

Smog: I dont know. I would hold off and get the belt, reset the KAM and see if the code comes back. If so, then check the work you did.

Good luck Mav.

 

[Mavrick]

Thanks Hissin,

What negative effects would i see from the IAT being bad? What do parts stores call this? I'm just going to go ahead and replace it..

The emissions ones, i am hoping i just have a vac line mixed up or something stupid.

 

[Mavrick]

Also, the previous owner deleted the AC from my car. Could something be not "finished" that is causing code 82?

 

[HISSIN50]

IAT (Intake air temp sensor) = ACT (air charge temp sensor). It seems which nomenclature is used depends upon the parts store you are at.

An ACT/IAT that is out of calibration messes with the puter in terms of how dense it thinks incoming air is. It can allow the car to ping or run rich. It just depends upon how it went south (like an ECT - they are both very similar in how they work).

With the smog, the pump not being hooked up (turning) could very well do it. As you know, JR is the man with the run-down on how to diagnose it (his post is much more eloquent than I could EVER phrase it).

Deleting A/C should have nothing to do with AC or the ACT that I can figure.

Good luck bud.

 

[jrichker]

Code 54 – ACT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ACT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ACT can be in error.

Check the resistance of the black/white wire to battery ground. If it is less than 1 ohm, it is good. If it is more than 1 ohm, the black/white wire has bad connections or a broken wire. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.

Then check the resistance of the ACT sender located in the #5 intake runner on most 5.0 stangs.

ACT & ECT test data:

The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same

Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :

68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61

Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms

Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. The dump valve air diverter valve (front vacuum operated valve) isn’t working on the Thermactor Air System (smog pump). Look for broken or missing vacuum lines on the solenoid valve to the diverter valve Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve

 

[Mavrick]

Thanks jrichker

What is the ACT? #5 intake runner is where my temp sensor is.. i replaced that with a mechanical gauge and no longer have the stock gauge hooked up. Is this why im getting a code?

 

[HISSIN50]

Thanks jrichker

What is the ACT? #5 intake runner is where my temp sensor is.. i replaced that with a mechanical gauge and no longer have the stock gauge hooked up. Is this why im getting a code?

At this point, I hope you meant: where is the ACT.

This is courtesty of Tim (Stang22). ACT is #44 IIRC.

Your having omitted the stock temp gauge sender (behind the dizzy) is of no consequence. It has nothing at all to do with the computer.

Good luck bud.

 

[Mavrick]

Thats what i was thinking.. thanks again.

 

[Mavrick]

Do i ever feel like a dummy after today's episode! I had my mechanical temp gauge in the ACT port.. I never thought twice about it, because after i did that, my stock gauge stopped working. My old ACT looked pretty gummed up but i bought a new one anyhow, and got that mess cleaned up. I put the stock temp sender in the back of the intake, and im going to run a new wire for the stock gauge.. hopefully it works, if not i may buy a new sender.

 

[Mavrick]

OK so my check engine light is gone. I ran the KOEO test again and came up with only 82.

I then ran the KOER test and came up with only 44 and 94 which are both emissions problems.


jrichker i tried to follow your directions regaurding the air diverter, and here is what i got.

Red Wire - 14.3v
White/Red Wire - 0.6v (held it for about 20seconds while idling, no change)

Where do i go next?


EDIT: The solenoid with Red + White/Red wires, which valve should this solenoid control vacuum to? The valve closest or furthest away from the smog pump?


I made a new thread to clean it up.. please do not reply to this one.