HELP! with rear brakes on '9f GT

[geminiman82]

Anyone out there have any clue on how to get the brake caliper pistons to go back in?? The manual says to turn them but they just keep turning without actually moving back in anymore. Is there some way short of taking this thing to the dealer to do a break job?? I am stumped now, I need help, we have tried using a C-clamp to push it in, tried turning it back into place, and nothing is working. Anybody that knows how to solve this problem PLEASE let me know.

Thanks

--Bill

5.0L '95 Mustang GT Auto

 

[94GTNJ]

To do it the easy way, you have to go to a auto parts store and look around their special tool sections. There you will find a cube looking device that fits on a socket wrench that allows you to turn the piston, thus screwing it back in. The cube should have 6 sides that are universal keys for all sorts of brake pistons. Cube = 6 bucks

The hard way is using a needle nose plyers and twisting the piston back in place, but you might damage the piston.

When I replaced my pads that cube thing didnt fit exactly and needed to be filed down, but after about 5 min I finally it. It was a bitch turning it back in though because it was so tight in place.

 

[GTPhreak]

you have to twist and push in at the same time

 

[Carney Woods]

had the same problem on one of my cars I thought the calipers were the same (front and back). I messed with them for a couple hours before I gave up and called a friend who quickly made me feel like a dumba**. Oh well I bought that cube tool and It's worked ever since.

Are you sure the caliper isn't seized up?

 

[geminiman82]

Tried using the special cube tool but it is too small, it doesn't even go all the way across the piston, so that won't work. The needle nose pliers don't seem to work either, but we have been either pushing or turning not both, so that may be why. We are sure they aren't seized becuause they will move out and back in a bit. Anything else that might be an idea, incase the pushing/turning doesn't work?

--Bill

 

[Matt90GT]

Tried using the special cube tool but it is too small, it doesn't even go all the way across the piston, so that won't work. The needle nose pliers don't seem to work either, but we have been either pushing or turning not both, so that may be why. We are sure they aren't seized becuause they will move out and back in a bit. Anything else that might be an idea, incase the pushing/turning doesn't work?

--Bill

Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual! You can find info and pics like this:

 

[stang22]

Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual! You can find info and pics like this:

I know this probably isn't the correct way, but can't you disconnect the brake like and then push it back in since there will not be any pressure on the piston? I know you will have to bleed the brakes, but shouldn't you do that anyway after you work on them or replace them? I am just throwing a wrench in, but am curious to know if this is ok...



Tim

 

[Matt90GT]

I know this probably isn't the correct way, but can't you disconnect the brake like and then push it back in since there will not be any pressure on the piston? I know you will have to bleed the brakes, but shouldn't you do that anyway after you work on them or replace them? I am just throwing a wrench in, but am curious to know if this is ok...



Tim

For the fronts.

Not the rear. The rear will not go back in by just pushing it. If you ever did, you would ruin the self adjusting clutches in the caliper. The way you defeat the self adjusting clutch in the calipers with built in E brakes is to turn them back in. Thus the tool or trick. Once you turn them back in, you are good to go again.

If you force it in and damage the clutch there, then the caliper would not self adjust. Thus you would have to pump the pedal to get the piston far enough out to give you braking pressure.

 

[stang22]

Thanks Matt! I knew it would work on the front, but wasn't sure about the rear. Good to know information though!!! My rear disc conversion kit is sitting in the garage, waiting for the holidays to end so I can install them... along with some new gears.

Tim

 

[geminiman82]

The Solution

Well,
Turning worked on the one, but not on the other, so in the end all it cost me was the price of a new set of calipers to make me look like I am a good mechanic to my g/f Hope to hell she thinks so after all this. Not to bash on Stangs, cuz I do like them, but that has gotta be one of the most messed up ways of doin brakes I have ever seen. I have a similar setup on my '89 Supra, and it is SOOOOO much easier to do a brake job on it. Oh well, just me bitching now Thanks for all the help guys.

--Bill

 

[Matt90GT]

Well,
Turning worked on the one, but not on the other, so in the end all it cost me was the price of a new set of calipers to make me look like I am a good mechanic to my g/f Hope to hell she thinks so after all this. Not to bash on Stangs, cuz I do like them, but that has gotta be one of the most messed up ways of doin brakes I have ever seen. I have a similar setup on my '89 Supra, and it is SOOOOO much easier to do a brake job on it. Oh well, just me bitching now Thanks for all the help guys.

--Bill

its just your bitchen there.

Any caliper with a built in Ebrake is pushed in the same way -- special tool and turn to defeat the clutches.