Help with RF cobra 75.

CAMTWO1070 said:

I put a TDZ in a F250 w/408 stroker....IT IS A STAND ALONE HARNESS.

Theres like 5 wires for hookup...You have battery power connection that gets connected to the battery also a hot positive wire that comes from the column switch or from the positive on the coil..

You also have a fuelpump wire and a negative from the ECU wiring that needs and has to be grounded to the cylinder head and you also have to make sure the dizzy is grounded good to the engine block too......

Then you have a purple wire that hooks to the same wire that triggers your starter solenoid...This purple wire is a wire that retards the spark for ease of startup.Thas why I had to run a diode suppressed solenoid because the flyback from the solenoid going back through the purple wire into the TFI moduule was frying TFI modules every week..

Good Luck

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CAMTWO1070 said:

I put a TDZ in a F250 w/408 stroker....IT IS A STAND ALONE HARNESS.

Theres like 5 wires for hookup...You have battery power connection that gets connected to the battery also a hot positive wire that comes from the column switch or from the positive on the coil..

You also have a fuelpump wire and a negative from the ECU wiring that needs and has to be grounded to the cylinder head and you also have to make sure the dizzy is grounded good to the engine block too......

Then you have a purple wire that hooks to the same wire that triggers your starter solenoid...This purple wire is a wire that retards the spark for ease of startup.Thas why I had to run a diode suppressed solenoid because the flyback from the solenoid going back through the purple wire into the TFI moduule was frying TFI modules every week..

Good Luck

Click to expand...

CAMTWO1070 said:

What I do to make sure everything is grounded properly is take my DVOM and put it on continuity tester then hook one side to the battery nagative and then I touch the alternator ,starter ,brass portion of coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor the the distributor housing now ever since having a problem related to a distributor that wasnt grounded due to a painted block , a clearcoated billet aluminum distributor, a powdercoated holdown and an anozided steel screw stopping the distributor from properly grounding....

And I dont know what you mean by data wire....Theres a 5 wire hookup like I stated...none stated data but one stated it retarded the distribitor for ease of startup and goes on the starter trigger lead that triggers the starter solenoid .....

Ford engines lanor hard when hot when starting up Ron Francis added a purple wire that runs back to the TFI module that gives the TFI module a lil power burst that retards the timing so the engine starts up labor free.....Without a diode protected starter solenoid you will be replacing TFI modules left and right through a phenomenon called FLYBACK....look it up....If youre solenoid doesnt have a sticker that says diode suppressed its not diode protected against flyback..



Last week I had to take my whole harness out of my truck again to do away with their BS relay block system and hooked everything straight to the computer and only 2 relays like FORD did but diode protected ones........

I was getting running glitches when I hit hard bumps in the highway and found out of you even slightly wiggled the relays while the truck was running changed the way it idled and it even stalled once too so using a similar diagram as posted by another member above I just did away with the relay where I had to and now my truck is running [knock on wood] a ton better as the BS terminals Ron Francis uses has no true clamping force on the terminals and over a short period of time loses its grip and even using a pick tool to tighten them up does very little to offer a long term fix as its still temporary and depending on how much you drive your vehicle is how much youll be pulling relays and tightening up the cheap chinese lugs as the relays get quite hot while in constant operation..............

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