I would still like to know why the wire that is for data to ecu uses what is the important ground you speak of being needed for dizzy. Because I've never seen it grounded any other way ? Thanks for any input
What I do to make sure everything is grounded properly is take my DVOM and put it on continuity tester then hook one side to the battery negative and then I touch the alternator body , starter body , the brass portion of the coolant temp sensor and the air temp sensor and the distributor housing now ever since having a problem related to a distributor that wasnt grounded due to a painted block , a clearcoated billet aluminum distributor, a powdercoated holdown and an anozided steel screw stopping the distributor from properly grounding....
The Important ground wire is the single ground wire coming from the harness....It should be a stand alone grounding and placed on the rear of the cylinder head...It doesnt matter which head,,,,,Dont stack any other grounds up on this screw with the ECU grounding wire.......!
The only other thing is selecting the proper jumper wire for whether youre utilizing a stickshift or automatic transmission too and that dictates whether youll need an interface wire for your 02 sensors as theres differences in the computers between auto and stickshifts and the 02 sensor harnesses and how theyre pinned out...An auto computer will work with a stickshift but it still needs to be piunned out as an automatic and have the proper wiring for the 02 sensors...If you use an auto computer but select stickshift trans strategy its not gonna work.....
You need to select auto and have the proper 02 interface wires like these......
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...1321357541559&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba2972b8192cf
And I dont know what you mean by data wire....Theres a 5 wire hookup like I stated...none stated data but one stated it retarded the distributor for ease of startup and goes on the starter trigger lead that triggers the starter solenoid when the keyswitch is turned to crank it up.....
Ford engines labor hard when restarting up hot so Ron Francis added a purple wire that runs back to the TFI module that gives the TFI module a lil power burst that retards the timing so the engine starts up labor free.....Without a diode protected starter solenoid you will be replacing TFI modules left and right through a phenomenon called FLYBACK....look it up....If your starter solenoid doesnt have a sticker that says diode suppressed its not diode protected against flyback..
Last week I took my whole harness out of my truck again to do away with their BS relay block system and hooked everything straight to the computer and only 2 relays like FORD did but diode protected ones........
I thought I had the whole thing straightened out by adding diode protected relays to control flyback and they worked as intended but....
I was getting running glitches when I hit hard bumps in the highway and found out if I even slightly wiggled the relays while the truck was running changed the way it idled and it even stalled once too so using a similar diagram as posted by another member above I just did away with the relays where I had to and now my truck is running [knock on wood] a ton better as the BS terminals Ron Francis uses has no true clamping force on the terminals and over a short period of time loses its grip and even using a pick tool to tighten them up does very little to offer a long term fix as its still temporary and depending on how much you drive your vehicle is how much you will be pulling relays and tightening up the cheap chinese lugs as the relays get quite hot while in constant operation and the wires wiggle too much inside the terminal housings to offer any clamping support..............
Oh and I also had to do away with their BS 4 fuse - fuse holder aswell as they werent grabbing the fuses good either and the way the power was distributed was quite wrong..................On Fords diagram the majority of the systems that RF seperated and seperately fused run off the same main wires coming off the ECU hooked to #37 & 57 which are also hooked together so thats the way theyre hooked up in my harness now...Theres seperated 02 sensor power and grounds that werent connected to the ECU correctly either....
These are the diagram I used....Theyre not mine and I take no credit for theyre existence ...
