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Help with underdrive pulley install. REALLY URGENT!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter csl500
  • Start date Start date Aug 15, 2007
C

csl500

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
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Aug 15, 2007
#1
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #1
Today I decided to install my steeda underdrive pulleys on my 05' mustang gt(automatic). I pretty much followed the instructions that bigcat provided on this website. I came across two problems though.
The least important one is that when I tried to remove the bolt from the alternator support bracket(lower driverside one) the nut would come off but the bolt did not. Has anyone with steeda udp's ever had this problem?
The most important problem occurred when I was installing the steeda harmonic balancer pulley. I tried using the bolt they provide to get it started(they warn to not fully tighten this bolt, because it can cause damage), but when I removed that one and tried to put the stock bolt(which the steeda directions say to re-use) back in, the pulley was not far enough onto the engine. So I used the chrysler pulley remover/installer that I rented, and this is where the problem occurred. I'll explain what I did step by step. First I found the adapter with the correct threading. Then I attached the black ring(the thing that's supposed to keep the adapter and the pulley installer bolt together) to the adapter. Then I put the nut and spacer onto the pulley installer bolt. Then I screwed in the adapter into the pulley installer bolt, and tightened the black ring. Then I started to put the harmonic balancer pulley onto the engine. After getting to a point to where I thought the stock bolt would actually grab hold of the threads in the crank, I began to loosen the adapter/pulley installer bolt. I didn't notice it at first but the adapter had separated from the pulley installer bolt, and remained attached to the pulley/crank. I cannot figure out how to get the adapter out. Since the black ring is still threaded on the adapter, much of the adapter is not exposed(eyeballing I would say 1'' to 11/2'' of exposed threading). I've tried putting duct tape on the exposed threads and using a variety of pliers to try and loosen it, but no luck(because of how deep the middle of the pulley is, I can only grab the adapter straight on, not from the side). Has this happened to anyone, or does any one have any ideas about how to get it out?
The only thing I can think of now is to find a proper sized nut, and use some threadlock to hopefully keep the nut and adapter attached to where I can use a socket.
I know this is pretty long and not well written, but I'm frustrated. Not to mention a huge blow to my ego for making a mistake like that. Believe me, any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Aug 15, 2007
#2
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #2
not sure what you are trying to say, its probably easier than i imagine it. can you take a pic? that might help me out a bit.
 
C

csl500

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
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Aug 15, 2007
#3
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #3
sorry the humidity caused the lense to fog up lol! it might be hard to tell but the thing where the stock bolt usually is, is the adapter. look closely at the tape residue, and you should see the black ring i was talking about(sorry for notusing the technical name). The other picture is what the adapter looks like, of course that's one of the other ones in the chrysler pulley kit. i hope these pics are useful
 
C

csl500

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
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Aug 15, 2007
#4
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #4
well i'm having problems with uploading the pics. so i created a page a cardomain.com. go to http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2813399 for the pics
 
M

MikeysOTP

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Mar 29, 2007
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Aug 15, 2007
#5
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #5
The answer to the first part of your question is easy. Some of us have a stud with a nut instead of a bolt on the alternator. Replace the nut and trim the end of the stud, just the end part that isn't threaded is enough. I just used the cutting wheel on my dremel for this.

Is there any reason you can't just use the puller to to remove the balancer so you can just start over again with install? I used the bolt Steeda supplied for the install without a problem so you might want to try that again.

Good Luck.
 
C

csl500

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Mar 4, 2007
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Aug 15, 2007
#6
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #6
ok good that's what i was going to do. thanks for that. i had no idea that some had bolts, others had studs. yeah, but the problem is that as long as the adapter is stuck i can't do anything at all . oh yea, when you re-used the factory harmonic pulley bolt, did you re-use that thick washer as well? I noticed that without it would work, but I wasn't sure if I needed it or not. thanks for your help
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Aug 15, 2007
#7
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #7
to tell you the truth, it has been a while since i have used that tool, and cant picture whats going on. the tool i used stuck MUCH farther out than that one. you tightened the large nut to draw the balancer on the crank.



is this the same as how you used the tool?
 
C

csl500

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
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Aug 15, 2007
#8
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #8
yeah it is. i used a wrench to hold the large threaded bolt in place, and another wrench to tighten the silver nut. when i removed the tool though, the adapter that screws into the large threaded bolt(which is seen in your pic) did not come out. that's why it appears to be so small. i just need to find out a way to remove the adaptor, so that i can use the stock bolt to secure the pulley to the crank.
 
M

MikeysOTP

New Member
Mar 29, 2007
203
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Aug 15, 2007
#9
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #9
I did re-use the bolt and washer, does it say to do that in the directions? I don't remember. When you do get back on track you can probably use the bolt without the washer to get the pulley on then remove the bolt and put the washer on. Be sure to torque the bolt properly since I've heard that is the most important part.
 
C

csl500

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
11
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Aug 15, 2007
#10
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #10
Phew! Well I finally dislodged the adapter. All it needed was two 5/8''-18 hex nuts, the pulley remover bolt, vice grips, a wide assortment of wrenches and brute strenght. since i now know what to do about the alternator bracket stud, it should be easy going for the last few steps. thanks for yalls help!
 
C

csl500

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
11
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Aug 15, 2007
#11
  • Aug 15, 2007
  • #11
well i'm not out of the woods just yet. since i drive an auto i have to hold the torque converter with a 14mm wrench to prevent the engine from turning while i torque down the harmonic balancer pulley bolt. i think i have a general idea of where that is, but i'm not completely sure. can anyone who has installed udp's on an auto please tell me where this is. i drive an 05 mustang gt(i'm not certain if the spot i'm looking for is the same on a 06', etc.)
 
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