hey guys

[cheddarbacon]

hey guys distributer problem?

Hey guys I turned on my car today and when it warmed up i reved it to like 2 gs and let it sit for like 3 sec @ 2,000 rpms it felt like the engine didnt want to be up that high and wanted to go back down so i gave it a little more gas not much at all and then the car back fires 2 times sounded like then i droped the rpms and it sounded as if it wanted to die for a split second like it didnt idel as loud as it usally does then it went back to normal what should i check anyon???

 

[Daggar]

I'd start by checking the fuel pressure regulator and the vac lines and source going to it. If it backfired, that tells me that there's too much gas.

 

[cheddarbacon]

hey

I'd start by checking the fuel pressure regulator and the vac lines and source going to it. If it backfired, that tells me that there's too much gas.

Hey i dont know if this narrows it down i just looked at my spark plugs and it a new plug almost and it is hella white like it running lean what do you think??

 

[Daggar]

I still think that if you're actually backfiring that you're getting too much gas when yourev the motor. Do a search for "jrichker" or "injector balance test". He's got a checklist for running the injector balance test through the EEC. Might help to eliminate possibilities incase you do in fact, have one or more cylinders running leaner than the others.

 

[CrazyCobra]

Hey i dont know if this narrows it down i just looked at my spark plugs and it a new plug almost and it is hella white like it running lean what do you think??

Did it back fire in the exhaust or intake? My car back fires in the intake if I give it a little gas when i fist start it, only once then it is fine. I'm not sure exactly what it is but i feel that it is lean also. I'm going to watch this thread for further clues....

 

[HISSIN50]

First off, Mr. comma and Mr. period are your friends.

Did it backfire as you had let off the gas or while increasing the throttle?

if the former, I would not sweat it. that is part of the dynamic with closing the throttle (manifold vac goes up since the air was just choked off, injectors dial back, etc).

good luck.

 

[cheddarbacon]

Thx

First off, Mr. comma and Mr. period are your friends.

Did it backfire as you had let off the gas or while increasing the throttle?

if the former, I would not sweat it. that is part of the dynamic with closing the throttle (manifold vac goes up since the air was just choked off, injectors dial back, etc).

good luck.

Thank you, for your response.



It backfired in the engine bay while I increassed the throttle does that help?

 

[cheddarbacon]

ello?

 

[jrichker]

As requested...

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.

 

[cheddarbacon]

Thank you

As requested...

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.

Thank you so much man