HG....AGAIN!!! Which HG goes on backwards??
- Thread starter 95CobraMike
- Start date
Warping the block??? thats different...a head yes, a block???
are you overheating or just losing water???? Sounds like te gaskets are on correctly...both front and one "flipped"...thats normal..in the Fel-Pros I have used anyway....
From what you say on the way you TQ'd em I would would think your ok and not under TQ'd...
are you overheating or just losing water???? Sounds like te gaskets are on correctly...both front and one "flipped"...thats normal..in the Fel-Pros I have used anyway....
From what you say on the way you TQ'd em I would would think your ok and not under TQ'd...
final5-0 said:
The information that came with my headbolts said, please follow head manufacturers specs. You should use the FORD SPECS for your car seeing you still have stock ford heads on it. The 70lb ones are for aluminum heads. It takes more to hold this heads down and to keep them from warping. That is why they are spec'd higher.
95CobraMike said:
Well it has to be one of those, or a leak somewhere. My advice to you is let the car idle on your driveway for about 15-20 minutes and get up to full temperature. After that you should shut it off, then get under the car and look where the heads meet the block. If you do not see any leaking there after it is brought up to full running temp and the thermostat is open, your heads are tightley fastened. My guess is you are losing coolant somewhere else. Possibly the hole in the bottom of the waterpump. (There to let you know when the waterpump is going out) Definitely check there. If not look around your radiator for leaks. Good luck!
94TURBO5 O
New Member
eades5.0 said:
I agree. I went through 2 sets of hg's on 8-10#'s from detonation and was told to O-ring mine to prevent it from happening again. I never did and ran my S-Trim to 12#'s with no problems, and now 10# with the KB. The key is a tune and they will not blow so easily but there are never any guarantees. Mine actually stop blowing after a good tune.
Did you check the lower intake seals front and rear to see if they are leaking? How much coolant are you losing?
When you fill your system are you leaving the cap off the rad to let it burp when the thermostat opens?
Do you just notice it going low in the overflow or how do you know when it's low?
mackey said:
i will definalty look there and do this method...thanks
94sc50- i havent had a chance to really look at the leaking problem yet, i had to get the darn thing started so i could get it into the shop to look at it...but i will check the lower intake....(you are talking about where the lower intake meets the block right? on the front and back where i had to put silicon?)
the cooling system was filled by pros when the HG install was done...so it was full and i drove it at most 350 miles....now the radiator is about 8-10" low and my t-stat bounces all around (mostly higher that it should be) its usually about on the N of normal.
i notice its going low when the t-stat is higher than it should be...i dont have an over-flow tank
Eades50- i could see all the rivets when i put the gaskets on..so no, i dont think they were between the surfaces.
Rio5.0- sorry, well losing water, and i can tell its losing water when the temp gagues starts going up....it never got all the way up...but it got close.
i watch that gague like a hawk ever since my last HG blow....
i watch that gague like a hawk ever since my last HG blow....
94TURBO5 O
New Member
You need an overflow tank man. Is the nipple on the radiator neck capped?
Maybe the thermostat was installed backwards, what dergreee stat is in there? Stock gauges are never correct and if you radiator has'nt been flushed since the hg install then oil could also be clogged.
Maybe the thermostat was installed backwards, what dergreee stat is in there? Stock gauges are never correct and if you radiator has'nt been flushed since the hg install then oil could also be clogged.
WHAT, YOU LIKE REPLACING HEAD GASKETS. ARE YOU RETARDED. O-RINGED HEAD GASKET PUT ALL THE PRESSURE AROUND THE CYLINDERS WHERE IT BELONGS. MY BROTHER WAS RUNNING A BLOWN BIG BLOCK AND WAS HAVING THE SAME TROUBLE UNTIL HE HAD HIS HEADS RINGED. NEVER BLEW ANOTHER GASKET! DOUCHEBAG!!eades5.0 said:
WELL, IF YOU AREN'T INTELLIGENT ENOUGH TO REALIZE WHEN YOUR ENGINE IS DETONATING AND NEEDS A PROPER TUNE, THEN FORGET IT. BUT SMALL BLOCK FORD ENGINES (5.0 ) HAVE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH HEAD GASKET ISSUES, DUE TO THE FACT THEY ONLY HAVE FOUR BOLTS PER CYLINDER AND ARE ONLY 7/16(NOT 1/2" LIKE THE 351 BASED) AND HAVE POOR TORQUE SPECS. 0-RINGED HEADS AND GASKETS ARE NOT AN ABSOLUTE, BUT ARE VERY EFFECTIVE AT CONTROLLING CYLINDER PRESSURES. NO-ONE CAN KNOW EXACTLY WHEN THEIR ENGINE IS ON THE EDGE OF DETONATION. ONLY WHEN IT STARTS DETONATING. THEN IT MAY BE TOO LATE. CHOCOLATE MILK TIME. ESPECIALLY IF IT IS SUPERCHARGED. NO I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS FOR A N/A 300 RWHP, BUT DEFF. FOR A 450 RWHP S/C ENGINE. IT IS VERY GOOD INSURANCE. THAT IS UNLESS YOU LIKE TEARING YOUR ENGINE DOWN, OR WORSE YET, ROASTING YOUR BEARINGS FROM WATER IN YOUR OIL SYSTEM. 0-RINGED GASKETS ARE CHEAP! REBUILDS ARE $$$. YOU DECIDE FOR YOURSELF. DON'T LISTEN TO MORONS WHO THINK "MAYBE iI CAN GET AWAY WITH"!!!!94SC50 said:
I went through 2 sets of hg's on 8-10#'s from detonation and was told to O-ring mine to prevent it from happening again. I never did and ran my S-Trim to 12#'s with no problems, and now 10# with the KB. The key is a tune and they will not blow so easily but there are never any guarantees. Mine actually stop blowing after a good tune.
Did you check the lower intake seals front and rear to see if they are leaking? How much coolant are you losing?
When you fill your system are you leaving the cap off the rad to let it burp when the thermostat opens?
Do you just notice it going low in the overflow or how do you know when it's low?
mackey said:
Steven
Are you saying Mike should torque his ARP head bolts based on the info in the Ford manual?
I don't believe that is a good thing.
You got two different kinds of bolts which require different methods of use.
I'd call ARP to make sure cause I think if you go with this method you will have way too much stress on the whole bolt, block, and head cause it will all be over torqued.
Later
Grady
ARVtheHPjunki said:
Your livin in the past. With the cometics..MLS (multi layered steel) there is no reason to run o-rings. The cometic is a superior gasket...do your research.
O-Rings use to be the hot ticket (I ran them for years) but with the cometics out now, they are worlds ahead of a o-ring anyway u put it.
This guy runs cometics, and you told him to get o-rings.....lmao....thats the worst info I have ever heard...and u still belive it to be true.
Do your homework, come back and tell us how wrong u are.
It is not a good thing. This is coming from a Ford tech of 20+ years (my Dad).final5-0 said:
Let me clarify a few things about O-ringing cylinder heads. 1) Most shops cannot O-ring a head (PROPERLY!) to save their lives. 2) 99% of people do not need their heads O-ringed - it's a band-aid for someone that does not know what they are doing. In fact, I wouldn't call it a band-aid because it often times hurts more than it does help.
Joe
94TURBO5 O
New Member
ARVtheHPjunki 
You don't have the brain capacity to keep up with me and I won't let an infantile personality as yours to rent space in my head.
BTW, you should take some writing skills so you don't have to use cap lock to read through your posts to make sure you spelled everything correctly.
Illiteraty is curable these days if you go take some classes.
You don't have the brain capacity to keep up with me and I won't let an infantile personality as yours to rent space in my head.BTW, you should take some writing skills so you don't have to use cap lock to read through your posts to make sure you spelled everything correctly.
Illiteraty is curable these days if you go take some classes.
ARVtheHPjunki said:
You make no sense and i told u i have cometics...not going to o-ring anything
94SC50 said:
no, there is a tube that goes down and if its going to overflow it just goes out on the ground i guess
im not sure what degree stat is in there...it was the one that came with the car....what kind of issues would i be seeing if it were in backwards?? because i know the t-stat in there came in the car and i know the guy who had it before me had HG and cooling issues....
Radiator was flushed..i do not believe it is clogged
Not having an overflow MAY be the problem. The coolant system is designed to let some coolant out when the pressure gets too high. That's the importance of the radiator cap - when the pressure is too high, it lets fluid flow into the overflow tank. As the cooland cool and de-pressurizes, the lower pressure sucks coolant back in to equalize the system. In your case, any overflow is dropped on the ground, and the system sucks AIR back in. Not good.95CobraMike said:
It's really difficult to get the thermostat in backwards - your average thermostat won't go in backwards, 'cause it won't fit. All the thermostats I've seen have a larger end that doesn't fit in the water neck side. I suppose it's possible there's one out there that will go in backwards, tho.
What does concern me is something you said earlier. You said when you had it flushed, the coolant wasn't flowing properly. That's a worrisome sign. If the thermostat is more than two years old, you should replace it. The thermostats eventually fail, and don't open when they should. It could be stuck closed, and that would cause a major problem.
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