high flowing budget

[sn-95matt5-0]

alright guys i'm saving for my top end to for my 351w. but man i'm out of money and it kinda makes me sick to walk out to the shop and see all the money i have already invested sit on the engine stand.

this is wat i got......351w stock crank and rods bored .030 over with forged speed pro pistons(engine builder got a really good deal on new set). with a 70cc head the motor will have an 8.5 to 1 compression ration.

heres my questions

1 are those pistons decent? my engine builder said for the money they are pretty nice and they looked good when i saw them.

2 what would be the best bang for buck h/i for something this big. i understand with such low compression this wont make ground breaking power but i expect some thing that should pull pretty hard. i have heard of a performance shop that has a gt40 (5.8l)lower intake and 94/95 cobra upper and and explorer upper. they also have some gt40 heads off of an explorer. would this stuff suffice for a little while. i've also looked a typhoon intakes. i would prefer an aluminum head to help keep weight down and flow numbers up and i'm interested in the edlebrock victor jr. and trick flow r heads, but thats alot of money.

3. as of now i want to do the retrofit roller lifters and run a roller cam. but i got a friend that says a flat tappet is just as good. i wanted to go custom but if i'm goin with a budget h/c/i then an off the shelf cam would probably be better.

thanks for the help and i know that with 302 parts i can only hope for 302 power but i'm broke and i want wat will be able to get this motor together. thanks for the help guys

 

[mustang6tee8]

have the heads milled to raise the compression ratio. I want to build a 351w too (for my 68)...mind telling me the specs on your parts?

 

[rj95svt]

Do the pistons have valve reliefs big enough for 2.02 valves and are they dish or flat top pistons?

Most small block heads are gonna have between 58 and 64cc chambers. Which means your compression won't be that low. The victor jr. heads are the only ones I can think of with 70cc chambers but they are also available with 60cc chambers.

 

[rj95svt]

Are these the pistons?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW%2DL2446F30&autoview=sku

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

yes i am almost positive that those are the pistons. do you think they are decent enough pistons?

mustang6tee8 wat specs do you need to know. my engine builder got all my shortblock for me but the pistons are the only thing i didnt keep the box for(didnt think about it and left the box at his shop)

 

[rj95svt]

The pistons are decent and there is no strength concerns. My only concern is piston to valve clearance for big valve heads but with the pistons being dish top like they are that may not be to big of a concern. I would make sure and check your P/V clearances closely. Worse case you'll have to notch the pistons with a Isky piston notching tool.

You should have between 9 and 9.5:1 compression with around a 60cc head so it's not to bad. As far as which heads to use it's kind of hard to say. The patriots look promising but if I bought them I would have the valvesprings checked if not replaced. There are some other cheaper aluminum heads out there but I'm not sure about any of them.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

alright i got a deal on a set of edlebrock rpm performers

i havent seen them and no matter what i'll be dropping them off at my engine builder to get him to go over them and do what ever is needed.

but their only wanting 600 for the set do you guys think that i should get them and run them for now or do you think i should save for a set of Trick flow high ports or victor jrs

another reason i'm really considering gettin these is because i got a fully dressed 302 goin into a an 86 coupe and a 289 we're freshing up for my dads 66 and these heads would be nice on them when i finally get around to upgrade to igger heads.

 

[BlackVert]

i hear ya about the money man. it adds up fast. $600 sounds pretty good, but if they need springs and seats and stuff, then the $600 isn't really $600 any more ... if you know what i mean ...

hydraulic roller lifters are much better, especially for a street car.

i have a xe-282-hr12 cam sitting in my basement. very good for a 351-427 ci motor. $200 shipped if you want it. i got it thinking i might want to switch to that if the dyno didn't make the power i wanted, but after my tranny debacle, i doubt i'll put much more performance minded money into the stang for a while, so i might as well not hold onto it.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

pm sent about the cam

thanks alot.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

blackvert how well do you like your typhoon intake.

did you have to do any extra work to it to clean it up or did you just put it on.


and where did you order your accufab headers from.

 

[BlackVert]

blackvert how well do you like your typhoon intake.

did you have to do any extra work to it to clean it up or did you just put it on.


and where did you order your accufab headers from.

i like it ok. it would probably be a restriction in the high rpms, but i don't really care about that because it is a street car and it probably won't see many blasts above 5000 rpm anyway. it is polished, which is what i was going for.

i got it off corral, and it was gasket matched when i got it. it looks like the previous owner had done some cleaning up on it. if you bought a new one, you would probably have to clean it some.

the headers took about 7 weeks to come. i got them here:

http://www.accufabracing.com/exhaust.htm

they are the BT210 headers

call their Tech Line at (909) 930-1751 and ask for George Klass.

 

[mustang6tee8]

Basic specs such as: year block/heads, if you're puting roller components in it, etc.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

it is a 89 model block that came out of a 91 model e-series van.i wanted a early 70s or late 90s block but i couldnt find one. i have heard even though its not as strong as the early 70s lock a late 80s block is still alot stronger block than a 302

i will be putting the retro-fit link bar roller lifters in it.

so far i've spent most of my money on machine work. i had it acid vatted bored out balanced and assymbled.i had my engine builder recondition the rods and crank and he said that they almost looked new and i was very lucky to find a motor that was that good about not having bad wearing problems.i had him install ARP rod bolts. he got me a complete shortblock kit that came with a melling oil pump, timing chain, speed pro pistons, all the bearings and a box of fel-pro gaskets that i havent opened yet.i'm using a ford racing 351w swap 5 qt oil pan. tci flexplate and for the moment ford racing 28oz harmonic balancer.



i cant really think of anything else to add to this but if theres anything i can help you with just ask and i'll be more than happy to try and answer

 

[reddy351]

If you want compression out of that block, you can have the decks milled (.040", I think. Might be .060".) The stock pistons sit "down in the hole", at least that much.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

i was wanting a low compression motor because i want to start saving for a vortec or other form of supercharger as soon as i get the motor in the car.

i was just afraid of the smaller heads with a low compression motor making very very low horse power. i understand i wont be the fastest car at the track but i was hoping to run high 7s (1/8 mile track) all motor after gears tranny and suspension.