High idle with low TPS VDC

Eclipse

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Dec 23, 2008
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I have an '89 5.0 with '96 Explorer upper/lower intake, 24 lb injectors with calibrated MAF and A9L computer (not yet tuned). I have a surging idle during warm up and then a constant high idle. I replaced the ECT, ACT, IAC and TPS. I am getting good VDC on my three VREF sensors. When checking my signal voltage on the TPS I am only getting .35 when warmed and at idle. Idle screw set to base timing (used a .025 set plus 1/4 turn). To turn the TPS to get anything close to .98-.99 I would be about 45% off from the mounting screws. During the KOEO initial test I do not get any codes, not even a code 11. I put a jumper wire from the individual test lead on the cars test circuit to the battery negative post…I still do not get this code. When I turn on the Reader and select Test/Run I hear some circuits energizing like the book says…but no codes what so ever print out.

I had a problem with my timing during intitial startup where I had to pint my rotor more towards the #3 spark plug with TDC on the top of the compression stroke when i was trying to set it pointing to the #1 plug wire. Car starts up and drives fine with a high sitting idle. Timing set to 12 degrees. Any thoughts?
 
Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The small voltage drop in the battery cables will cause incorrect resistance readings.


Computer diagnostic connector:

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How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems.
Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power.
There is a dark brown connector with a black/orange wire near the diagnostic connector. It is
the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. If this happens, it either burns up the wiring or
burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 &
60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open the computer up & repair the trace if
it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. The STI
has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire Jumpering it to power can produce unknown
results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks
in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.

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If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector.
eec04.gif


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information

harness02.gif


See http://forums.stangnet.com/749974-computer-issue.html for more help on fixing the computer innards.
 
"On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced." I got O.L. on both. I double checked my Black/LtGRN wire from pins 60/40 that go into the EEC PWR Relay and it feeds into the negative side of the battery like it should. All other checks were good...looks like I need a new A9L. Thanks for your help!!