High Water Temp on stang

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
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Miami
I finally have my car running after a long build process. I recently switched the t-stat from a 180* to a 160* hoping this would help the problem. The temp now goes up slowly and continues going to about 210. I shut off the car to be on the safe side. I do have an underdrive pulley on the water pump. I also have aluminum heads with a power adder on the car, I think I remember reading that aluminum heads cause the car to run hotter.

I have also added water wetter to the car to help reduce temp. Would would be another cause or something to look into about this?
 
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Could be a lot of things. One thing to remember is that more power = more heat. You may never run at stock temps with the new heads, but you should be close. An underdrive pulley on the water pump is definitely an issue, you need water flowing through the system to cool it off. You could also have a blown head gasket. When the car is cool, pop the radiator cap and see if you smell exhaust in the coolant. You can also run the car with the cap off; if you see bubbles, your head gasket has a leak. Your radiator cap could also be bad; if it doesn't hold pressure, the temps will climb faster.
 
I am pretty sure the head gasket is fine. The motor has less than 5 miles on it. No bubbles in radiator fluid You make a good point on the radiator cap, and the underdrive pulley.

I even thought about my fox body water pump spinning the wrong way. I believe it is reverse pump. That means it spins counterclockwise right?
 
If this occurs while at idle, it might be normal if you still have OEM fan switching. The low speed fan doesnt come on naturally till about 208*F.

Otherwise, be sure the radiator is burped.

Here's a little tech note about cooling systems. It might be worth a quick read and run through on the parts that apply to you. There are also hyperlinks for doing manual fan switches and testing the fan circuits if needed.

Good luck.
 
The high speed fan has a high amp draw when it turns on, but the gauge should return to normal in a second or two. If you still have a high draw as long as the fan is on, there's a problem somewhere.
 
An example is a fan motor that's seizing up. It will have a huge draw but not move much air. Or having both fan speeds engaged at once can burn a fan motor up and when both speeds are on simultaneously, the fan speed sucks.
 
Alum dissipates heat more efficiently than iron. Iron can end up acting like a bit of a heatsink. How a given set of alum heads will compare to a given set of iron heads with regard to heat retention varies however.
 
RC is right. i ahve march underdrive pulley and living in california and being 100* outside don't help. stay with stock pulleys if you live in "HOT" weather :)

We talked today, and Jose is going to try to get a Cobra Pulley on his car...That should help a little....but at bare minimum dont have an underdrive...Stock should be the minimum. Without A/C in your car, you should really be able to keep the temp below 200..

RC
 
We talked today, and Jose is going to try to get a Cobra Pulley on his car...That should help a little....but at bare minimum dont have an underdrive...Stock should be the minimum. Without A/C in your car, you should really be able to keep the temp below 200..

RC

Unless you are talking exclusively at idle I'll bet the farm that it won't reduce the temp while going down the highway. IMHO there is something else at play here if the minimum temp is 200+ with a 160 Tstat.
 
I do have anti-freeze in there with water+water wetter. Like Rob said I am planning to switch do a cobra pulley for added cooling.

This didn't happen during idle only, it happened after a quick drive around the block after idling for about 30 min.