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Highest lift cam with stock E7's?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1987stangman
  • Start date Start date Aug 11, 2008

1987stangman

Member
Jul 12, 2006
684
24
19
Aug 11, 2008
#1
  • Aug 11, 2008
  • #1
This weekend I plan to start pulling the 170K motor in my 87' GT. I plan to freshen up the bottom end and rebuild the E7 heads. I want to replace the stock cam for something bigger and I was looking at the Ford Racing cams. I plan to buy a set of roller rockers too and I know the 1.7's will increase the lift of the cam so my thing is I want to make sure that I buy a cam that will work with the stock E7's. I was thinking about the E303 cam.
 

dcurtis

10 Year Member
Jan 19, 2006
688
7
39
Aug 12, 2008
#2
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #2
Increacing lift alone wont do much on an other wise stock engine.
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Aug 12, 2008
#3
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #3
The cam that you currently have is the best cam for stock E-7s. Are you sure you don't want to do some porting and replace the valve springs while you have the heads off. Maybe clean up the pocket a little and grind the exhaust bumps down? You could use the E cam then with some success. Also with the 1.7s you may want to check the P/V clearence. That's up around .529 lift and that's starting to get close. Make a mistake with the cam timing and you could have interference.
 

thumper460

Founding Member
Jul 24, 2000
3,022
2
56
Orange Park , Fl
Aug 12, 2008
#4
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #4
The E303 will work fine.. however there are a few things the WILL need addressing also.. 1) you will HAVE to upgrade the springs/ keepers/ and retainers. The stock springs barely carry a stock camshaft!! Bumping the LIFT and the rev, not to mention that you are going to be pushing it harder ( you know you are!! LOL) Change out the springs..! The stock rotators are totally NOT for any hipo work, and those need to be changed out also...

Old rule of thumb.. change springs with a new cam!! IF you chance it, then be ready to go thru an engine cause you didnt up grade all the needed components... cool!! I know this wasnt your intention.. but cam, and SPRINGS are a must!! yes??

Just me...............................

Thumper
 

90limited

Founding Member
Apr 13, 2002
276
3
18
Port Charlotte FL
Aug 12, 2008
#5
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #5
I have 1.7 rollers in E7's that have been mildly worked. I have no complaints. When I worked the heads, I put in trick flow springs and valve seals. Can't remember the part number but they are a spring inside of a spring so to speak... I also have a brand new set of push rods that I did not need... Will sell for cheap.
 

PUNISHER RACING

Active Member
Aug 27, 2007
1,124
0
36
FORD CITY, PA.
Aug 12, 2008
#6
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #6
I run an "X" cam with milled stockers in my daily driver. I used the Crane 44308 kit and carbed it with an X-cellerator and a 650dp. Car is a blast to drive with a 4.30 rear and 5 speed.
 
S

seijirou

Founding Member
Aug 15, 2002
2,417
4
48
DFW
Aug 12, 2008
#7
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #7
PUNISHER RACING said:
I run an "X" cam with milled stockers in my daily driver. I used the Crane 44308 kit and carbed it with an X-cellerator and a 650dp. Car is a blast to drive with a 4.30 rear and 5 speed.
Click to expand...

Good lord
 

1987stangman

Member
Jul 12, 2006
684
24
19
Aug 12, 2008
#8
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #8
thumper460 said:
The E303 will work fine.. however there are a few things the WILL need addressing also.. 1) you will HAVE to upgrade the springs/ keepers/ and retainers. The stock springs barely carry a stock camshaft!! Bumping the LIFT and the rev, not to mention that you are going to be pushing it harder ( you know you are!! LOL) Change out the springs..! The stock rotators are totally NOT for any hipo work, and those need to be changed out also...

Old rule of thumb.. change springs with a new cam!! IF you chance it, then be ready to go thru an engine cause you didnt up grade all the needed components... cool!! I know this wasnt your intention.. but cam, and SPRINGS are a must!! yes??

Just me...............................

Thumper
Click to expand...

Thumper, thanks for the informative reply. I too live in Orange Park and I have heard of your awesome E7 head services from many people around here. I do plan to put new springs in the heads and the only real reason I am rebuilding them is because the valve seals are getting bad. I had originally planed to wait until Feb to rebuild stuff because this is my DD and I am to get a newer GT then (hopefully). I was just looking for a little more power on the work commute. I have a garage full of what I need to port these heads but I have never done it before. Maybe I can get you to port them and I can assemble them? It would be worth it to me because this car will be my toy after I get my new GT. Let me know how you do things so I can get some prices.

Brian
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
Aug 12, 2008
#9
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #9
Peak Lift has NOTHING to do with Piston to Valve Clearance issues.



Follow along:

There are 4 simple strokes to an engine: Power, Exhaust, Intake, and Compression.

First, there is the power stroke, which is created after the spark ignites the compressed air/fuel mixture the piston is pushed downwards and relates the power to the crankshaft.

Second, there is the exhaust stroke where the piston is now coming up and the exhaust valve opens to push the excess air out the exhaust port into the exhaust manifold.

Third, there is the intake stroke in which air is pushed down into cylinder as it travels downward.

Fourth, there is the compression stroke in which the piston moves upwards to compress the air/fuel mixture that entered the cylinder on the previous stroke.

One should notice that the intake opening typically happens before top dead center (BTDC) and the intake closing typically occurs after top dead center (ATDC). The exhaust opening typically happens before bottom dead center and the exhaust closing typically occurs after top dead center (ATDC).

I will discuss this better and try to combine the strokes with the valve timing of a Trick Flow Stage 1 camshaft.

Again, for simplicity I will start with the power stroke. The piston has just been "exploded" downwards to transmit all the power to the crankshaft in order to rotate it. Before the piston reaches the bottom, the exhaust valve begins to open (49* BBDC) in order to begin scavenging the exhaust, and after the power stroke passes bottom dead center, the exhaust stroke begins. The reason the exhaust valve will open before the piston reaches the bottom of its travel is because cylinder pressure is much higher, even at this point, than atmospheric pressure. This helps scavenge some of the exhaust out the exhaust port.

As the piston is coming back up to push out the extra gasses out the exhaust, the exhaust valve opens up fully and then begins to close as the piston approaches top dead center. Just before the piston gets to the top and the exhaust valve closes, the intake valve begins to open (3* BTDC). At this point, called overlap, both the intake and exhaust valve are open. This is the point where piston to valve contact occurs, during the period of overlap. The exhaust valve closes a little before (4* BTDC) or after top dead center, which is when the intake stroke begins.

The intake stroke is where the intake valve continues to open and air is pushed in from the atmospheric pressure. The intake valve continues to stay open until just after the piston reached the bottom of its travel, (ABDC). After top dead center and after the intake valve closes (38* ABDC), the compression stroke begins to compress all the air/fuel that was just entered into the cylinder. The ignition occurs a little before the piston gets back up to the top dead center position, to continue right into the power stroke. The cycle repeats over and over, from 600 RPM to 9,000 RPM.

Let’s take a .600” peak lift camshaft, 108* intake centerline, stock 4.6L 3.543" stroke, and the factory 5.933” rod.

At the intake centerline (ICL), that is where peak lift occurs.

The piston will be down the bore 2.561", while the valve is open .500"-.600".

So, how is the valve going to hit the piston top? Also keep in mind that a valve is not on the same level as the deck height. It is seated up into the combustion chamber of the cylinder head.

On another note, take the factory 4.6L stroke for a total of 3.543". Why would anyone want to open up the valve all the way (.500"-.600"), when the piston is at TDC? There is not volume to displace since the piston is at the top of the bore and the greater pressure on the cylinder head side would have a hard time overcoming a lesser pressure, when the piston just got through pushing upwards.
The pressure differential and volume are next to nothing.

A 302 with a stock 5.090” rod, 3.00” stroke, and a 107.5* intake centerline (TFS-1) would have the piston 2.156” down the bore.

A 347 with a 5.400” rod, 3.40” stroke, and a 108* intake centerline would have the piston 2.554” down the bore.

I hope one can see where this is going.

As rod length increases, the depth the piston is at during peak lift decreases.

As stroke increases, the depth the piston is at during peak lift increases.

As the intake centerline decreases, the depth the piston is at during peak lift increases.

Back to the TFS-1 camshaft for the 5.0L:

At peak lift, a 107.5 ICL (TFS-1 camshaft) is 2.156" down the bore, when the valve is open .499".

Watch the exponential change (non-linear) that occurs as the lobe lift increases to open the valve more with the roller rocker ratio change.

Lobe Lift - 1.6 RR - 1.7 RR - 1.8 RR

0.010 - 0.016- 0.017 - 0.018
0.020 - 0.032- 0.034 - 0.036
0.030 - 0.048- 0.051 - 0.054
0.040 - 0.064- 0.068 - 0.072
0.050 - 0.080- 0.085 - 0.090
0.060 - 0.096- 0.102 - 0.108
0.070 - 0.112- 0.119 - 0.126
0.080 - 0.128- 0.136 - 0.144
0.090 - 0.144- 0.153 - 0.162
0.100 - 0.160- 0.170 - 0.180
0.120 - 0.192- 0.204 - 0.216
0.130 - 0.208- 0.221 - 0.234
0.140 - 0.224- 0.238 - 0.252
0.150 - 0.240- 0.255 - 0.270
0.160 - 0.256- 0.272 - 0.288
0.170 - 0.272- 0.289 - 0.306
0.180 - 0.288- 0.306 - 0.324
0.190 - 0.304- 0.323 - 0.342
0.200 - 0.320- 0.340 - 0.360
0.210 - 0.336- 0.357 - 0.378
0.220 - 0.352- 0.374 - 0.396
0.230 - 0.368- 0.391 - 0.414
0.240 - 0.384- 0.408 - 0.432
0.250 - 0.400- 0.425 - 0.450
0.260 - 0.416- 0.442 - 0.468
0.270 - 0.432- 0.459 - 0.486
0.280 - 0.448- 0.476 - 0.504
0.290 - 0.464- 0.493 - 0.522
0.300 - 0.480- 0.510 - 0.540
0.310 - 0.496- 0.527 - 0.558
0.312 - 0.499- 0.530 - 0.562

Now a stock 5.0L lift camshaft (.444"/.444”) with an early intake opening, a late exhaust closing, and a steep ramp rate would create contact. The speed the valve comes off the valve seat would be so quick that it would catch the piston. However, a camshaft with a lazier lobe, late intake opening point, early exhaust closing point would be fine at .700” lift.

If you degree a camshaft, the below information may help you out.

Advancing the timing opens the intake sooner and closes the exhaust sooner. That will gain you some clearance on the exhaust valve, but you will lose clearance on the intake valve. Retarding the cam causes the timing to open the intake valve later, and closes the exhaust later. You'll gain clearance on the intake, and lose clearance on the exhaust. So changing the cam timing won't result in increasing clearance on both valves.

Adjusting either way can shift the power band +/- 200 rpm that direction.

The general rule of thumb is .080" of clearance on the intake side, and .100" on the exhaust side.

The exhaust side needs a little more clearance due to a couple reasons:

- Piston chases the exhaust valve as it is closing, which causes the spring to have less control.
- Heat expands the valve material
- Chain stretch (Retards the camshaft)

Peak lift does effect coil bind though.

Good Luck!
 
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