Holley Problem

[norcalsvt]

Got a used Street Avenger & noticed it was a little weathered. I installed new gaskets & a few other misc parts. Able to start up no problem, but it dies in gear.I don't think the Choke is working correctly. I can turn the choke housing & it doesn't seem to cause any difference in rpms. When I start the engine cold the rpms stay around 1000 in park & drops to around 700 or so in gear. Engine dies unless I really have it warmed up before I drive. I tried rotating the choke cap counter clockwise to leave the choke on longer but no change. Even tried the other way, no change. The manual says there is a screw for the fast idle cam? There is no screw by the choke housing. I guess it's missing or maybe this is an older street avenger & it didn't come with one?
One last thing it doesn't seem that the choke plate closes at all. Everytime I look at it, whether engine cold or not, the plate is wide open. I try to push it where it's open only a hair, but when I take my hands off the plate goes back to the fully open posistion.
I had a double pumper on the engine & the choke plate is the same. Wide open, but I don't have to warm it up as long in the morning before I take off.
There is no choke on the DP.
Also, I have no choke inside the car anymore.
thanks for any help

 

[Timmy]

The Street Avenger comes with an electric or manual choke. First you need to determine which you have. Does the cap for adjusting the choke have two electrical terminals on it? If so, it’s electric. If not, it’s manual.

The car having a choke in it only means it more than likely came with an electric choke carb from the factory.

If the choke is open all the time, it sounds like a manual choke and the cable is not hooked up meaning there is no cable for you to pull to close it at startup. You can get a cable at the parts store. The kit comes with a new cap, nuts, screws, cable and mounting hardware for about $10

If it’s an electric, hook it up to a ground and an 12volt source and see how it operates. Then make any adjustments needed.

If that don’t work, take the choke cap off and make sure the spring is engaging the choke lever. If it’s not, the choke will not wok no matter what you do to it.

Also, all DP’s are manual choke carbs that I know of. I think there is a kit to convert them but I have never looked for one.

 

[Max Power]

Good answer from Timmy on the choke parts.

The fast idle cam is on the opposite side of the carb. You should see some black or red plastic on the linkage. The is the fast idle cam. There is a set screw on that linkage that adjusts fast idle speed. It's a mother to get at and adjust, but that's where it is.

 

[norcalsvt]

The Avenger has the electric choke on it right now, what I meant was the DP had no choke, but I only had to warm it up for 30 seconds or so & I could take off without the engine dying. Since there is an electric choke now, I figured I wouldn't have to sit as long in the morning, but so far I have had to warm it to at least 150-155 before I could drive. I'll check for the screw by the red linkage. I saw the red plastic arm, & I can move it up or down, I didn't see a screw under there when I pushed it up, but I'll keep looking. Sounds like the choke it not working, plus it looks as if there is no screw to adjust the fast idle either.

 

[D.Hearne]

Sounds to me like you need to richen up the idle mixture, using the two screws poking out either side of the main metering block. The mixture is likely too lean, as opposed to your DP carb. The electric choke is supposed to pop open automatically after you close it manually with your fingers. A Manual choke will not.

 

[norcalsvt]

Sounds to me like you need to richen up the idle mixture, using the two screws poking out either side of the main metering block. The mixture is likely too lean, as opposed to your DP carb. The electric choke is supposed to pop open automatically after you close it manually with your fingers. A Manual choke will not.

I tried to adjust them yesterday & it seemed to take 3 turns out. Seemed like a lot, but I left them there. I turned them more, but it made no difference, so I stopped when the rpms didn't increase anymore. So if I understand it right, the plate on top of the carb is supposed to be open? I thought I read the plate needs to be closed or almost closed to start in the morning. If thats the case, mine will not stay shut. I pumped the gas before I started & the plate didn't close. It does move freely though.

 

[pabear89]

The Fast Idle set screw is on the pass side and is a flat blade screw that the fast idle cam sets on.
It is best adjusted with the carb off and turned over.
Your idle mixture screws will not show signs of adjusting with the fast idle cam holding the throttle plate open, your into the high end and pass the idle control.

The choke plate should close when cold starting to about 1/4 open and open when started, then the fast idle cam will hold the idle up till warm up and drop off with a light tap on the gas.

PB