Holy Wheel Hop!!

ShadowBok · Apr 11, 2005

I know there were a few threads about this before the server crash, however I haven't seen any since.

I took my car to the track for the first time last weekend (had a blast!) and my only complaint was the tremendous amount of wheel hop I would get at the launch. My best time was a 14.35 (I'm sure I could get it down a little more, still reasonably happy with it though), and I know if I would have been able to launch without any wheel hop I would be able to get it down to around a 14. Anyone have a solution to this problem?

I saw the following items on Steeda's site:

Adjustable Upper 3rd Link Kit
Steeda Street Lower Trailing Arms

I would imagine that these would help, anyone know of a definate solution?

PS - It also seemed like the higher I rev'd it before dropping the clutch, the less hop I'd get

05SatinSilver · Apr 11, 2005

Turn off traction control next time. No wheel hop.

Dave...

4511.21 · Apr 11, 2005

Since installing the Steeda Billet LCA's I've noticed the problem has just about gone away!

ShadowBok · Apr 11, 2005

05SatinSilver said:
Turn off traction control next time. No wheel hop.

Dave...

I'm not that stupid.

JK, I definately had traction control off. I probably would have had less hop with it on . Not saying my run would have been better, but I'm guessing less power to the rear wheels would equal less or no hop.

ShadowBok · Apr 11, 2005

4511.21 said:
Since installing the Steeda Billet LCA's I've noticed the problem has just about gone away!

Just about meaning...?

Do you still get a little when you launch?

Man those Billet ones are a pricey for LCA's. I guess if it fixes the problem though, it's worth it. What makes the Billet's better?

Stangnut · Apr 11, 2005

ShadowBok said:
I'm not that stupid.

JK, I definately had traction control off. I probably would have had less hop with it on . Not saying my run would have been better, but I'm guessing less power to the rear wheels would equal less or no hop.

I have little or no real knowledge here, but from my "experimenting" there is a LOT less wheel hop with TC off than with it on.

ShadowBok · Apr 11, 2005

Stangnut said:
I have little or no real knowledge here, but from my "experimenting" there is a LOT less wheel hop with TC off than with it on.

That very well may be the case, however I turn the TC off anytime I'm going to be racing, so TC is not a factor in the wheel hop that I'm experiencing.

CA Lightfoot · Apr 11, 2005

Try "walking" it off the line. Low-rpm launch. Little or no wheelspin. Go to full throttle as the clutch fully engages & tires hook-up. Depending on track conditions & weather, you ought to get that 14.0... and into the 13's with some practice.

Good luck & let us know your progress.

ShadowBok · Apr 11, 2005

CA Lightfoot said:
Try "walking" it off the line. Low-rpm launch. Little or no wheelspin. Go to full throttle as the clutch fully engages & tires hook-up. Depending on track conditions & weather, you ought to get that 14.0... and into the 13's with some practice.

Good luck & let us know your progress.

Thanks . I'll give that a shot before dropping $300.

drooks · Apr 11, 2005

I've heard it's the soft bushings in the stock LCA's. Replacing the LCA's I guess gives you stiffer bushings (polyurethane) but a little harsher ride.

tmcolegr · Apr 11, 2005

Ride is not affected at all. Yes the Steeda billet LCAs will completely eliminate wheel hop. I have them and other than my wallet being consierably lighter I have no complaints. Takes about an hour to install using the POS jack that was supplied with the vehicle. I'm sure they could be installed in about 30 minutes if you have access to a lift.

ShadowBok · Apr 12, 2005

tmcolegr said:
Ride is not affected at all. Yes the Steeda billet LCAs will completely eliminate wheel hop. I have them and other than my wallet being consierably lighter I have no complaints. Takes about an hour to install using the POS jack that was supplied with the vehicle. I'm sure they could be installed in about 30 minutes if you have access to a lift.

Does anyone know whether or not there is a performance difference between the billet and non-billet LCA's?

crash · Apr 12, 2005

Pauls Hp ran the first 12.5 with pulleys a CAI and an SCT tune. They used a panhard rod and a Heim Joint pinion adjuster (*-2.5 degrees).

They have all you need, without control arms.

http://www.paulshp.com/photopost/data/505/1hotrodcover1-med.jpg

ShadowBok · Apr 13, 2005

crash said:
Pauls Hp ran the first 12.5 with pulleys a CAI and an SCT tune. They used a panhard rod and a Heim Joint pinion adjuster (*-2.5 degrees).

They have all you need, without control arms.

http://www.paulshp.com/photopost/data/505/1hotrodcover1-med.jpg

Thanks for the info, that's impressive. In addition to solving the wheel-hop, that makes me pretty optimistic about getting my time down without spending tons of $$. I wouldn't have thought 12's were possible on this car with so few mods.

Btw, you and I have the same exact car from what I can tell, down to the spoiler delete .

rhumbline · Apr 13, 2005

I thought the big advantage of the SRA over and IRS was that it supposedly would not suffer wheel hop and presumably, the IRS would. But now it seems the SRA is a Bouncing Betty anyway?

05 GT Stang · Apr 13, 2005

go to http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm
and buy the TCA019 Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings $119.95 pr.
and you'll thank yourself. just my 2 cents

Long Stroke · Apr 13, 2005

ShadowBok said:
Does anyone know whether or not there is a performance difference between the billet and non-billet LCA's?

The only advantage the billet arms have over the adjustable steel lowers is weight. The alumium arms weight less, but are more expensive because of the wasted aluminum. Steel arms are just as good, plus the Steeda ones are adjustable.

Long Stroke · Apr 13, 2005

crash said:
Pauls Hp ran the first 12.5 with pulleys a CAI and an SCT tune. They used a panhard rod and a Heim Joint pinion adjuster (*-2.5 degrees).

They have all you need, without control arms.QUOTE]

Are you sure thats ALL he had? What about full exhaust, no cats, no A/C, serious weight removal, adjustable upper, LOWER trailing arms and a rear gear. And, that was not even a stock 05 rear in the car. What about his 1 piece driveshaft?

Pauls times are off par compare to some of the other cars out there with the same, I mean Less amount of work.

Mach460 · May 1, 2005

rhumbline said:
I thought the big advantage of the SRA over and IRS was that it supposedly would not suffer wheel hop and presumably, the IRS would. But now it seems the SRA is a Bouncing Betty anyway?

Yeah...same here.

crash · May 2, 2005

Long Stroke said:
crash said:

Pauls Hp ran the first 12.5 with pulleys a CAI and an SCT tune. They used a panhard rod and a Heim Joint pinion adjuster (*-2.5 degrees).

They have all you need, without control arms.QUOTE]

Are you sure thats ALL he had? What about full exhaust, no cats, no A/C, serious weight removal, adjustable upper, LOWER trailing arms and a rear gear. And, that was not even a stock 05 rear in the car. What about his 1 piece driveshaft?

Pauls times are off par compare to some of the other cars out there with the same, I mean Less amount of work.

Click to expand...

No, there was a Panhard rod and other suspension mods. Tried to keep it simple. The point is the pinion angle was most critical, and they custom built a Heim joint at the pinion snout for adjustability (2.5 degrees negative I believe). I will go over the article for the rest, as I cannot remember it all.

I just know Ford brochures stated the outboard mounting of our shocks was to eliminate wheel hop, but I ALWAYS get it under LIGHT tire smoke. NO HOP on powerslides or hitting it HARD (On mine).

Holy Wheel Hop!!

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