If you put a DMM on each side of one of the horn buttons (set to measure resistance (the 200 ohm scale is fine), with the button at rest your meter should read open circuit (often depicted with an I on your screen). Push the horn button and the reading should drop to a reasonable reading (less than 100 ohms, though I'd have to look up the actual spec. It would not matter because we'd move to testing the same signal at the relay next anyhow).
If this continuity doesnt occur, the relay doesnt 'know' that you're hitting the horn button.
The only reason I brought that up is that I've seen the horn button pads wear and the horn would not activate. In other words, the meter would always read I, even if the button was mashed through the steering wheel.
Just be very careful when working on this, as you're close to the airbag wiring.
Removed the old one and it spun and spun with no resistance (broken).
Put the new one in and checked codes. This time we heard the beeps when we went to clear the codes..Checked again got the following (clearing them each time):
63
72
81
82
84
85
Finally they all cleard and no airbag flashing.
One issue I do have not though....the little tiny wire on the clock spring that connects so the ignition switch for the chime went back on the right way (so we think) But NOW, the door chimes when opening it regardless of whether or not the key is in it (constant chime) Any ideas on this"
Thanks
RC
One issue I do have not though....the little tiny wire on the clock spring that connects so the ignition switch for the chime went back on the right way (so we think) But NOW, the door chimes when opening it regardless of whether or not the key is in it (constant chime) Any ideas on this"
Thanks
RC
I don't know if you had to remove the ignition cylinder to to all you did, but the electrical contacts that control that chime as it is related to key position are VERY sensitive and bend/break easily. I'd look into that- if it breaks (like mine did) it will cause the chime to think the key is always in the RUN position thus turning the chime on anytime you open the door regardless of if the key is in.
Its a little curved piece of metal with a square piece of plastic on the end that gets pushed up or down depending on key position to make contact with the chime mechanisms.
I don't know if you had to remove the ignition cylinder to to all you did, but the electrical contacts that control that chime as it is related to key position are VERY sensitive and bend/break easily. I'd look into that- if it breaks (like mine did) it will cause the chime to think the key is always in the RUN position thus turning the chime on anytime you open the door regardless of if the key is in.
Its a little curved piece of metal with a square piece of plastic on the end that gets pushed up or down depending on key position to make contact with the chime mechanisms.
If you were sitting in the car and you looked over at the cylinder, would that be located inside a small squarish hole, sort of on the top of the the cylinder? If so I think I know what you are referring to.