How can I reduce engine heat?

LS2 KLR · May 11, 2006

I've been having detonation issues lately and think heat is my problem. Granted its hot in tx but once my car comes up to full temp, shortly afterwards it begins to ping if I get on it. My timing is at 25 degrees and I also have a fluidyne radiator and electric water pump.

What else can I do? Would wrapped headers help or maybe some fans installed in front of the radiator.

ADRENLN · May 12, 2006

thermostat and a retune for it.

myponyrocks · May 12, 2006

ceramic coat headers, valve covers, and anything else that is metal and gives off heat or brings it in.

loosescrew79 · May 12, 2006

Remove the hood. hahahaha

My buddy has a GN and he just got his headers sprayed with some bada$$ heat coating and he is amazed with it. He said it lowered his enginebay temp. I'll have to ask him for more info on it later today.

mogs01gt · May 12, 2006

Header wrap, intake wrap,thermostat and the best thing would be a hood that has a heat extractor type setup. An opening at the rear of the hood to allow the heat to rise out.

FORCED2DV8 · May 12, 2006

Heat can cause detonation, but bad gas can also, Are you running premium fuel. Do you guys have 91 or 93 there. Also a good tune up, spark plugs, wires.. ect. Like other recommended,, thermostat, I usually use a 180 but since it gets so hot there you may be able to use a 160 and still make operating temp. check your coolant to water ratio,, 20 percent anti freeze, 80 percent water...and add water wetter... Header wraps are ok but ceramic coated headers look better IMO.

jivepepper · May 12, 2006

Don't start it.

I have recently done the drivers side head cooling mod.

LS2 KLR · May 12, 2006

I only run 93 octane in my car and am running a fresh set of ngk tr8 irridium plugs. My coolant mixture is fine and I was running a 160 thermo but now using a 180. Recently I did install a 4" hood that I haven't cut out the vents yet. I may go ahead and do that this weekend. I'm also gonna try replacing my c&l mass air since I have heard of them causing similar problems.

Kilgore Trout · May 12, 2006

You can use Redline Water Wetter, do the coolant mod, and use one step colder plugs in the rear-most two cylinders.

Mike97gt · May 12, 2006

McTeague said:
You can use Redline Water Wetter, do the coolant mod, and use one step colder plugs in the rear-most two cylinders.

+1

It's probally the rear 2 cylinders on the drivers side bank thats detonating.

the fix right now is to run a tube from the back of the head, if you do a search you can find the ford part number for the part people have been using, the only problem with this method is it's a pain with the engine in the car.

I am thinking of using my spare PI intake to experiment with drilling the coolant passage block off on the rear of the drivers side of the manifold and having a tube come from it just like the passenger side of the manifold. you would then want to run this to the coolant crossover in the front of the intake with a hose.

mogs01gt · May 12, 2006

LS2 KLR said:
I only run 93 octane in my car and am running a fresh set of ngk tr8 irridium plugs. My coolant mixture is fine and I was running a 160 thermo but now using a 180. Recently I did install a 4" hood that I haven't cut out the vents yet. I may go ahead and do that this weekend. I'm also gonna try replacing my c&l mass air since I have heard of them causing similar problems.

Im running motorcraft two stage cooler plugs and never have detonation problems. They are gapped below 40 though.

steveb24 · May 12, 2006

as summer is coming, im tryin to cool off my stang to. so far ive put in ngk tr6's gapped a .54 (hope thats ok, it idles and drives and everything is the same), a jlt intake and bbk tb ....and plenum is on the way also. i was thinking 180 t stat but some ppl on here told me not to. anyone have more info on the thermostat?

DropTopPony · May 12, 2006

LS2 KLR said:
I'm also gonna try replacing my c&l mass air since I have heard of them causing similar problems.

I just sold my entire C&L setup because i was concerned with heat/detonation with the eaton blower. I replaced with 90mm LMAF and Demolet CAI. I have jet hot coated headers but switched to an aluminum block so more heat will come in the bay...i do have a Cobra R hood with cowl vent but i'm thinking i need to upgrade to a better radiator. I'll be watching your progress so i know what works and what doesn't.

reeber · May 12, 2006

Why don't you simply inject it with some methanol? Mr. Freeze, or Snow Performance?

jstreet0204 · May 12, 2006

I dont' think heat is directly your problem. I am running 25* of timing at 5k, and I can guarantee my intake temps are higher than yours with the 10lb pulley. Was you car tuned in colder weather. It could be that they need to adjust the spark retard for ect function. If they tuned it during colder weather then they wouldn't have seen any detonation.

LS2 KLR · May 12, 2006

As some of you are using NGK TR6s I am running even colder plugs with the TR8s. When my car was tuned last it was still hot outside. When the car is cool or on the dyno it doesn't ping until a few minutes after coming up to full temp. I'm gonna put on my 90mm maf when I get it tuned next week and go from there. I'll also cut a vent in my hood. I'll keep you guys updated.

mogs01gt · May 12, 2006

you have your plugs gapped pretty tight correct? You could try going tighter. Its free, easy and wont hurt anything aslong as you dont run the juice.

LS2 KLR · May 13, 2006

mogs01gt said:
you have your plugs gapped pretty tight correct? You could try going tighter. Its free, easy and wont hurt anything aslong as you dont run the juice.

Actually you can't gap the TR8s. That made me kinda weiry at first with such a big shot but its never acted up.

mogs01gt · May 13, 2006

LS2 KLR said:
Actually you can't gap the TR8s. That made me kinda weiry at first with such a big shot but its never acted up.

I wouldnt run a plug I couldnt gap.

How can I reduce engine heat?

LS2 KLR

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