Paul I have no idea what the compression is now? Will that milling change it and what are the consequences of milling them again? How do I found out the compression?
How could this happen all over again!
- Thread starter 94TURBO5 O
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Sleepy McNastee
New Member
Is 10 psi your max boost? If not what is ?
You could be running more boost than you think
It is hard for me to get an accurate reading(on my car) is the only reason I mention this.
You could be running more boost than you think
It is hard for me to get an accurate reading(on my car) is the only reason I mention this.
Sleepy McNastee
New Member
And yes milling the heads raises the compression.
You can check your compression with a tool you screw into where your spark plug is.
You can check your compression with a tool you screw into where your spark plug is.
pinche
Founding Member
94SC50 where did you get your intake polished and how much was it to have it done. Just curious what the goin rate is...
I polished everything myself and I think around 450-600 is going rate on intakes, that's why I learned to polish.pinche said:
Sleepy Mc
I have a 3.15 pulley capable to 12#'s. I saw 10#'s tonite when I glanced over at the gauge. I have never used this pulley on the street I had it installed then lifted the gasket on the dyno. I was around 12-13.1 A/F with timing turned 5 degrees and 55 #'s FP. We ran it 6 times with in a 2 hour span and on the 6th run no detonation it blew the stock HG w/160K on it.
I put boost through the motor tonight twice and the last time I noticed the temp going to 250 and I shut it down and let it cool. I just finished tearing it completely down and now the heads are off. I will have them milled again if they are warped again.
Do I need to know my compression before ordering the right gasket?
Sleepy McNastee
New Member
When you mill the heads it raises compression.And boost is just compression.
So I would recommend lowering the boost or lowering the compression (you can do this with dished pistons or like others said get a thicker head gasket).
Good luck man.
BTW How much was your paint job?
I want one...
So I would recommend lowering the boost or lowering the compression (you can do this with dished pistons or like others said get a thicker head gasket).
Good luck man.
BTW How much was your paint job?
I want one...
Should I buy another set of head bolts for the install over again?
Is Ed Curtis the only one for ROL gaskets and does anyone know the part #?
Thanks!
Snoozer,
I paid 100 to get them milled. Is that a lot?
Sleep Mc,
I paid 10K for the paint job.
Is Ed Curtis the only one for ROL gaskets and does anyone know the part #?
Thanks!
Snoozer,
I paid 100 to get them milled. Is that a lot?
Sleep Mc,
I paid 10K for the paint job.
JR, you need to have the heads CC'd to see what the combustion chamber size is now. Added compression plus boost can end up being a bad scenario with increased chance of detonation. Like snoozer said, you can have combustion chamber of the heads worked to bring that cc back up so your compression is near stock. Ed isn't the only one that sells them, but he is the only one I know of. He normally stocks them too.
P.S.- snoozer didn't want to know how much $ it cost to have them milled, rather how much material was removed from them. If they were milled too much you may have some leaks between the heads and intake. There are specific numbers in which to mill the intake depending on how much was milled from the heads... this may be some of your problem and not a head gasket.
P.S.- snoozer didn't want to know how much $ it cost to have them milled, rather how much material was removed from them. If they were milled too much you may have some leaks between the heads and intake. There are specific numbers in which to mill the intake depending on how much was milled from the heads... this may be some of your problem and not a head gasket.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
blown93feature
New Member
Hey sc 50,if I was you I would use studs and not bolts when doing a blower motor.I would venture to guess that your conpression is around 9.5:1 with the milling of the decks so in turn everything is raised considerably when under boost.
The best way to do the heads is to torque the uppers(longbolts)@80lbs and the lowers to 70lbs.
Step 1.torque all to 70 starting in as normal and working outwards.
Step 2.Increase torque value to 80 and start from the inside and work outwards top row only.
Step 3.Leave the studs for 24 hours and then loosen all of them and retorque the same way.
I read that your fuel pressure was 55lbs was that under boost? If so there is not enough fuel for 10 lbs.12:1 OR 13:1 A/F #'s are on the edge for a normal driving even with 110 octane so if thats the ratio on the street and you put the motor under stain than it's usually all over.I would make sure your seeing around 80 to 85 psi under boost and a/f should be at 11 1/2:1 to 11:1 for daily driving with 93 octane.
I was also wondering if the heads were o-ring groved or are they o-ringed inserts that are part of the heads(better way to go) either way it's recomended for blowered cars.
Good luck with all.
The best way to do the heads is to torque the uppers(longbolts)@80lbs and the lowers to 70lbs.
Step 1.torque all to 70 starting in as normal and working outwards.
Step 2.Increase torque value to 80 and start from the inside and work outwards top row only.
Step 3.Leave the studs for 24 hours and then loosen all of them and retorque the same way.
I read that your fuel pressure was 55lbs was that under boost? If so there is not enough fuel for 10 lbs.12:1 OR 13:1 A/F #'s are on the edge for a normal driving even with 110 octane so if thats the ratio on the street and you put the motor under stain than it's usually all over.I would make sure your seeing around 80 to 85 psi under boost and a/f should be at 11 1/2:1 to 11:1 for daily driving with 93 octane.
I was also wondering if the heads were o-ring groved or are they o-ringed inserts that are part of the heads(better way to go) either way it's recomended for blowered cars.
Good luck with all.
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