How do I clean my EGR valve?

subcreep · Jan 27, 2004

Okay, I am getting the strange check engine light when I'm running around 2000 RPM's. When I let off the gas it goes away, and when I run higher RPM's it goes away. I know the response here will be to run the codes, and I intend to this weekend. My question would be how do I clean the EGR valve? I've heard several people say that this could be the cause of my problems, but I can't find an explaination of how to clean the valve itself. Thanks.

'92 LX Conv. off-road x-pipe, 3-chamber flowmasters, BBK cold-air, welded GHS subframes, crappy monroe cheapo shocks (I need $$$)

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 27, 2004

Not much you can do to clean it. I used a little Brake and parts cleaner along with a small wire brush to scrape away some of the carbon. Just be careful when blowing off the excess with air. It's not hard at all to blow the rubber diaphragm in them. Then it's junk. Don't forget to thoroughly clean out the carbon deposits in the spacer as well. That combined with playing around with your TPS voltage may help.

bock · Jan 27, 2004

with some carb cleaner?

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 27, 2004

bock said:
with some carb cleaner?

You might be able to if you were careful, but I’d be worried about it harming the rubber diaphragm inside?

90mustangGT · Jan 27, 2004

bock said:
with some carb cleaner?

Carb cleaner shouldn't hurt the rubber. With a wire brush, you should be able to get the builtup off the port area but if the clogg runs deep, you won't be able to get to it, it could be as far down as the head. I work in a shop and we do a service called an induction service where chemicals are pushed through the passages with a specail tool/machine, makes alot of smoke, but does a great job.

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 27, 2004

Just to throw a little something extra into it. When I pulled my engine down, the EGR definitely needed to be cleaned, but it wasn’t anything overly dirty. On the other hand, I pulled off the pollution pipe that was part of the EGR system, which is bolted to the rear of each head and it, was plugged solid with carbon and oil deposits. You may want to pull it off and give it a once over too when servicing the EGR valve, too?

90silverstang · Jan 27, 2004

I just had the same problem with my car. Check engine light would go on when I acellerate and go off when I let up on the gas or just cruise, as soon as I stepped on the gas it would light. I had 2 problems, I had a dead spot in the TPS and the EGR sensor was flakey.
I also pulled the codes -- 31: egr sensor 63: TPS

The codes I pulled were in the continous memory section of the code dump.

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 27, 2004

Another gremlin that may be causing this could be burnt O2 sensors. It's usually a good idea to replace them after 100,000km (about 60,000 miles).

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jan 27, 2004

Dude Dont Sweat It! Ive Had 2 Mustangs Both Late 80's Early 90's And Cleaned It With Carb Cleaner And It Worked Fine And Was Told Before I Done Mine By Friend Whom Had Done His That Way And Cleaned Up Fine With No Probs.remember There Built Ford Tuff So Dont Sweat It.

subcreep · Jan 28, 2004

So carb cleaner, and clean the polution pipe... got it. 90SilverStang, that's the exact same problem I'm having. Alright now, here's a new one, what's TPS stand for, and what does it stand for?

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 28, 2004

subcreep said:
Alright now, here's a new one, what's TPS stand for, and what does it stand for?

TPS - is your (Throttle Position Sensor)
In lamens terms, it's the small black plastic thingy with two screws and an orange black and green wire attached to one side of the butterfly valve on your throttle body. Its function is to provide throttle angle input to the ECU on fuel-injected engine.

Here’s an article that I copied from www.allfordmustangs.com
It will give you the step by step on how to adjust it without me having to type until my fingers fall off.

What is the TPS?

Sitting on top of your throttle body there is a sensor that relays to the computer the exact opening position of the throttle butterfly. In other words, how far do you have your foot into the accelerator pedal. In technical terms the TPS is a low-voltage potentiometer. Based on the position of the throttle and other factors given to it, the computer will decide how rich the fuel mixture will be at any given open throttle point.

Why mess with the TPS?

Well, based on the information given above it is easy to understand how important this sensor is to your Mustang's performance. It is important that the computer gives the correct air and fuel mixture at the right time. If your TPS is off (or bad), the information (voltage) that the computer gets will be inaccurate. The tuning procedures in this article are very simple and the potential for the TPS to be off is significant, so why not tune your car the right way and get the most out of it.

Tuning the TPS

When you tune up your Mustang (wires, plugs, timing, etc.), the checking/adjustment (if needed) of the TPS should always be included. You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a pin, and a voltmeter that can read low voltages accurately. Here is the procedure:

1) Loosen the two screws holding on the TPS, (The screws can be very stubborn, so make sure you have a good quality screw driver that fits snug and has a long handle for lots of torque, or you might strip the heads) just enough to able to swivel the TPS with force.

2) Pierce the "GREEN" wire with the pin and hook the positive (+) lead from the voltmeter to it.

3) Ground the negative (-) lead from the voltmeter. Use a good ground, like the engine or other grounded metal source.

4) Turn your ignition key to the run position, but do not start the vehicle

5) Rotate the TPS until you achieve .98 to .99 Volts (For stock or slightly modified engines).

6) Tighten the screws on the TPS and recheck.

Troubleshooting

If the maximum or minimum voltage you can obtain is close to the above recommended voltage setting (.98-.99), but the TPS just won't turn enough to get it right, you will have to modify the TPS. If you get a very low voltage reading, make sure you have an accurate voltmeter and your connections are solid, if so, you need to replace your TPS. If you have no voltage, you have a bad connection or a bad voltmeter. Rarely, if never, will a TPS be in such bad shape, especially if your car still runs good.

87gtconv · Jan 28, 2004

You can do your minor clean up but in the end make sure when you shake it it sounds like a can of spray paint. Gotta hear that ball move!!

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 28, 2004

87gtconv said:
You can do your minor clean up but in the end make sure when you shake it it sounds like a can of spray paint. Gotta hear that ball move!!

Are you talking about the EGR valve....if so, I don't recall anything in there that's suppose to rattle when you shake it?

1991stanggt · Jan 28, 2004

I would invest in a new EGR position sensor...I had the same problem with my 91, and it got so bad that sometimes the throttle would start sticking down and id have to shut it off and restart the car. I got a new EGR sensor and it fixed the problem alright.

subcreep · Jan 28, 2004

I checked the EGR valve and it looks brand new. The rubber gasket is bright orange, with no carbon deposits. I really need to get the codes run, but the CEL only comes on for a few seconds at a time. Will a code reader grab the code if I can't get it to occur while the reader is hooked up? The CEL only comes on if the temp outside is less than 80 degrees, I never get the light in the summer-time. This sucks!!!!!! I can't help but think that it could be from the cold-air induction sucking freezing cold air up into the intake (okay I know I live in Florida, but it's been cold here lately). Has anybody else ever had problems with a fairly stock engine? I've only had this car for a few months and it runs like a champ, the light is pissing me off!

1991stanggt · Jan 28, 2004

I had the exact same problem with my 91 gt...You need a nwe egr position sensor, i think theyre about 30 bucks at autozone. My check engine light never came on in summer(i live in ohio) and in the winter it started flashing anywhere from 2000-3500 rpm. I scanned my codes and it pulled up whichever code it is for the egr sensor(so yes it will find the code if its just a flashing check engine light). And my engine is fairly stock(pullies, long tubes, intake). I got a new egr position sensor and it solved the problem so Id say its the egr position sensor gone bad.

87gtconv · Jan 29, 2004

My bad I was thinking about a PCV valve sorry. No they wont rattle!!

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 29, 2004

1991stanggt said:
I had the exact same problem with my 91 gt...You need a nwe egr position sensor, i think theyre about 30 bucks at autozone.

Not trying to be a smart a$$, but you meant to say a "Throttle Position Sensor", right?

1991stanggt · Jan 30, 2004

No i didnt mean the TPS its the EGR position sensor, at first i thoguht it was the TPS too so i got a new one and the problem remained so after that i bought the EGR sensor and replaced it, that turned out to be the problem. Its very easy to replace just take out 3 bolts and it pops off and then you unclip it from a wiring harness and put the new one on.

How do I clean my EGR valve?

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