how do i compress the plastic cam chain tensioners?
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Assuming this is a 2004 MY. The Ford Factory service manual has a step by step with diagrams. Can't post the diagrams. If interested in getting a copy for yourself, send me a PM. I maybe able to help.
>>From Ford service manual
Engines with ratcheting timing chain tensioners
CAUTION: Timing chain procedure must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result.
CAUTION: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Compress each tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise.
Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.
While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.
Install a paper clip into the hole of each tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in during installation.
Remove the tensioner from the vise.
Engines with non-ratcheting timing chain tensioners
CAUTION: If one or both tensioner mounting bolts are loosened or removed, the tensioner-sealing bead must be inspected for seal integrity. Any cracks, tears, cuts or separation from the tensioner body or permanent compression of the seal bead, will require replacement of the tensioner.
Inspect the RH and LH timing chain tensioners.
Install new tensioners as necessary.
CAUTION: The timing chain procedure must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Compress each tensioner plunger, using a vise.
Install a retaining clip on each tensioner to hold the plunger in during installation.
>>From Ford service manual
Engines with ratcheting timing chain tensioners
CAUTION: Timing chain procedure must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result.
CAUTION: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Compress each tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise.
Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.
While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.
Install a paper clip into the hole of each tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in during installation.
Remove the tensioner from the vise.
Engines with non-ratcheting timing chain tensioners
CAUTION: If one or both tensioner mounting bolts are loosened or removed, the tensioner-sealing bead must be inspected for seal integrity. Any cracks, tears, cuts or separation from the tensioner body or permanent compression of the seal bead, will require replacement of the tensioner.
Inspect the RH and LH timing chain tensioners.
Install new tensioners as necessary.
CAUTION: The timing chain procedure must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Compress each tensioner plunger, using a vise.
Install a retaining clip on each tensioner to hold the plunger in during installation.
evolucion311
Member
- Mar 19, 2009
- 236
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Do you mean the plastic chain guides and tensioner arms? The tensioner itself should be made of iron, IIRC.
I highly recommend you use OTC 6009 and OTC 6020 tools to hold the camshaft in place while you remove the chains. This will save you a huge headache trying to get the timing marks to line back up.
Also, use an OTC 6024 to hold your crankshaft in the correct position when you reassemble everything.
Make for DAMN sure that the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket is pointing directly to 9 o'clock before you remove the timing chains. 9 o'clock is "safe mode" where none of the pistons are close to the heads. This is done to avoid any piston-to-valve clearance issues. Don't follow this point and you may destroy your motor.
I've done the job with and without the right tools. Spring the cash and get the right tools. Amazon has em for a decent price, got all mine for about $150.
To see what it should look like when you are finished see my very long thread here:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...p0316-compression-test-results.844229/page-11
I highly recommend you use OTC 6009 and OTC 6020 tools to hold the camshaft in place while you remove the chains. This will save you a huge headache trying to get the timing marks to line back up.
Also, use an OTC 6024 to hold your crankshaft in the correct position when you reassemble everything.
Make for DAMN sure that the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket is pointing directly to 9 o'clock before you remove the timing chains. 9 o'clock is "safe mode" where none of the pistons are close to the heads. This is done to avoid any piston-to-valve clearance issues. Don't follow this point and you may destroy your motor.
I've done the job with and without the right tools. Spring the cash and get the right tools. Amazon has em for a decent price, got all mine for about $150.
To see what it should look like when you are finished see my very long thread here:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...p0316-compression-test-results.844229/page-11
no no... as it turns out, in 2004 ford decided to put plastic tensioners in the 4.6, they are not iron, and apparently have a tendency to leak when reused. I am in the process of trying to source some used iron ones from an older 4.6, i will most likely end up getting them from mhs, i just wish i would have caught it before they shipped my cams. depending on what i hear back, i may attempt to install the plastic ones, the bad thing is... they dont lock - so i will have to force them in place, which isnt something i want to do with my timing set.
evolucion311
Member
- Mar 19, 2009
- 236
- 2
- 18
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