How do I hook up 600hp?

[SadbutTrue]

I'm sorry I meant to say ET Street Radials.

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadial

Even so, whether this makes sense depends on your definition of 'street'. Do you live in an area with really nice weather and roads and a relatively sparse population? If yes to all three, then sure, you coudl drive it around on weekends. But this sounds more like the type of car you put on a trailer to take to the track rather than it driving itself to the track.

Not trying to belittle you or anything, and I personally have no experience with 600 horsepower cars. Just making sure you don't spend all this money and build a freak of a car and are surprised when it turns out ot be less than optimal for getting groceries or the occasional commute to work.

Most the guys that are running 10s on here (and there are a bunch, well, relatively) would probably attest to the above. 10secgoal even has that little line in his sig that might apply here... 'just cause you drive it around the street doesn't make it a street car' or something to that effect.

 

[pdw5000]

I understand what everyone is saying. I use to own a Z06 with 550hp and it was very streetable. You could easily drive it to work or on a 500 mile road trip. I know this car will not be anything like that. I won't be using it to drive to work or going on any road trips. However, it won't be a trailer car either. I want it to be a badass street (meaning legal to drive on the street) that can burn chevys all day long. I want it to be very aggressive...shake, rumble, hardly idle, and very snappy. I have been in cars like this before and I know it takes a very experience driver and a good setup to handle it. I'm just trying to make this car as fast as possible, legal to drive on the street, and within reasonable cost. I was just wondering what your opinion of the tires are. I use to have Nitto 555R ET street radials on my z06 and they worked great but they were 305/30/18 size. I'm just wondering if the width on the MT (275) is too small for this amount of power which would mean I would need to go to a bigger wheel.

By the way, the engine may not make 600 hp because I decided to just use stock windsor heads and have them prof. ported and polished so I might lose some power. Although my engine buider swears he can build these heads to flow just as good as aftermarket heads.

 

[dodgestang]

I think I am going to try my current suspension setup and see what happens. I am going to install the Caltrack system as well. I want to use the high stall and the 4.11 gears to launch hard...plus my engine builder is building the engine for that setup. If it doesn't hook up to my satisfaction I will take up some of your suggestions. It is just my springs and shocks are brand new and I want to see how they do before I just go get another set. One other question is will the MT ET Drag Radials, 275/60/R15 hook up well? I have 15x8 weld pro star wheels. Is there a better tire out there?

I should also mention this car is a 68' coupe. I am installing subframe connectors and possibly a 4 point roll bar. Will this be enough to resist the chasis from twisting?

Thank all of you so much for your advice. It has been very helpful!

As stated previously...to run 10s you need a cage. You run faster than an 11.5 you need a 6 point bar. Putting in a 4 point bar is a wasted effort because of this.

I pull 1.7 60' using 17 BFG inch drag radials and there are plenty of fast cars out there pulling faster 60s with them. If you are running 15 inch wheels you might as well just run a slick at the track. I use the 17 inch drag radials because I am vain and I like my rear rim to match my front rim so I bought a second pair of 17s and swap my street tires for the drag radials when I go to the track

 

[blown65]

I'm running Hoosier Drag Radials on the street, however they are pretty much just like the ET Streets, just two grooves. They are just fine on dry, just dont try wet pavement, or you better be very very careful. You still haven't said what your real intent with this car is. Daily driver/weekend warrior/drag car what??

Just cause you run a Drag type tire on the street doesn't make it a trailer queen car. Been doing it for yrs with my car, but I don't drive in the rain unless I get stuck in a suprise storm. Even then its just driving carefully.

As for the roll bar/cage, you should at least go with a 6 point bar setup. Mine has a swingout on the driver side and it makes it just as easy to get in as a stocker. Getting in the backseat takes a little more skill with the crossbar however, but I rarely have adults back there anyways, just my kids.

 

[pdw5000]

My intent is to drive this car only on beautiful sunny days. Drive to town and back. Rip around the neighborhood. Race chevys from the stop lights. Go to the drag strip on occasions. Go to the monthly cruise ins at WalMart. Go to local car shows.

I live in rural Pennsylvania where there are plenty of people ripping around town. I just want a badass car that can run 10's and can still legally drive on the street. I'm not looking at bracket racing, just friday night flashlight runs or open drag nights. I am not very happy about the ideal about putting a 6 point cage in. I will have to think about that and see some other cars with it. I wanted to keep this car as stock looking as possible (i.e. sleeper). I do understand that to run at a NHRA or IHRA track u need the cage to run 10's.

BTW, I know there are cars out there do what I am describing. I have seen them.

 

[classic boost]

By the way, the engine may not make 600 hp because I decided to just use stock windsor heads and have them prof. ported and polished so I might lose some power. Although my engine buider swears he can build these heads to flow just as good as aftermarket heads.

lol!!! immediately take your stuff to another place!

 

[blown65]

My intent is to drive this car only on beautiful sunny days. Drive to town and back. Rip around the neighborhood. Race chevys from the stop lights. Go to the drag strip on occasions. Go to the monthly cruise ins at WalMart. Go to local car shows.

I live in rural Pennsylvania where there are plenty of people ripping around town. I just want a badass car that can run 10's and can still legally drive on the street. I'm not looking at bracket racing, just friday night flashlight runs or open drag nights. I am not very happy about the ideal about putting a 6 point cage in. I will have to think about that and see some other cars with it. I wanted to keep this car as stock looking as possible (i.e. sleeper). I do understand that to run at a NHRA or IHRA track u need the cage to run 10's.

BTW, I know there are cars out there do what I am describing. I have seen them.

Thats exactly how I use my car and love the way its setup. No issues in town, doesn't even get hot. (hits 160-170 and stays there in 100 degree weather) I can understand your 6 point feelings, but really it just comes with it. Just do some swing outs on the doors and its no biggy. (except you do see it.)

 

[pdw5000]

Here is the setup I am going to run...initially anyway.

5 leaf springs out back
Caltrac traction bars
Rancho 9000 series shocks with 9 way adjustment in the rear (they are 4x4 truck shocks)
620 springs in the front (1" drop)
Comp. Engineering 3 way adjustable 90/10 drag shocks in the front
1" sway bar in the front (will remove at the track)
3/4" sway bar in back
Custom made 1/8" thick subframe connectors
MT ET Streets 275/60/R15 tires out back

Soon to come is a 6 point roll cage...possibly

I went over this setup with Calvert Racing and this is what they recommended to start off.

What's the verdict?

 

[brianj5600]

I am surprised Calvert recommended 620 springs.
1/8" thick frame connectors? Aren't they usually .083" The metal that they weld to is much thinner than 1/8" and will be the the part that flexes.
I am with Classic Boost, This guy is full of BS. Stock heads will Never be close to modern designs and have trouble making much over 450. And to do that would cost more money than aftermarkets.

Edit: I just saw your uncle owns a metal fab shop. If you don't mind a bump in the rear footwell, do through the floor connecters. They are the best method.

 

[blown65]

I agree, those front springs are going to negate the drag shocks. I had the 620's and my old shocks were shot, and you would of never known it. Id at least go to some stock spring rate springs or cut down some 6cyl ones for ride height. It will gain some spring rate being cut down but still be better than those 620's for weight transfer.

 

[pdw5000]

I still have my stock springs on the car. Should I keep them on and just put the front Comp. Engr. shocks on only? I really wanted to lower the front of the car though...how can I do both?

 

[classic boost]

do not use the 620 springs. traction is all about weight transfer, and you ain't going to get it with those springs.

 

[blown65]

Then cut the stock springs or cut some 6 cylinder springs to lower it. Buying 620's with the reason to gain that 1" isn't in your best interest for what your doing IMO.

 

[fastcoupe68]

I would call Calvert Racing back because there is no reason that they would have suggested using those front springs and those (front) shocks. There own 90-10 shock is way better then those comp e shocks, Unless there was a strange specific reason to use what you have listed?????

 

[pdw5000]

Calvert Racing thought their own 90/10 shock would be to aggressive for a street/strip car. If I was going to use the car more for dragging they would have recommended that. They thought the comp e 3 way adjustable offered more flexability.

They also thought it would be worth trying the 620 springs to see if it would work since I already have them. If I didn't have them then they would have recommended something else. If they don't work then I will look into other alternatives.

Mustang Plus claims they run 620 springs on their 10 sec drag car and it works fine. We will see I guess.

 

[dodgestang]

FWIW I run 620s in my 65 mustang and it idles down the track at a somewhat respectable time.