How do you port the stock TB to 65mm and upper intake?

[Highbredcloud]

Do you have to take the butterfly plate out to do this? Where exactly does it need the porting...behind the butterfly plate...before...both? I would think both and I could get away with the butterfly plate on but am not sure...I want to do this since this will save me some money instead of buying a new one...Also what about the upper intake...How deep do I go? Can I do this with a dremel? How hard is this? I am new to porting and don't want to fcuk anything up...beyond fixing point. Thanks guys...

P.S...what about the EGR spacer...when I got a 65mm TB and the spacer on my summer car the 65mm spacer had the same part number as the stock one...seriously looked identical...Any ideas?

-Greg

 

[331 cobra]

Unless you have a machine shop at your disposal, you can't bore out a stock TB to 65mm.

Do you mean how do you port the stock intake to a 65mm throttle body?

If that is the question, take the upper intake manifold off of the car, dissasemble the throttle body, EGR spacer and upper intake, then look and see how well the Throttle body fits the EGR, then see how well the EGR fits the upper intake.

You want to have a smooth transition between the throttle body and the intake, so if the egr plate hole is smaller than the TB hole, enlarge the EGR hole untill it matches the TB hole. If the EGR hole is larger than the TB hole, just leave it alone. Next, if the EGR hole is larger than the hole in the intake manifold, enlarge the intake manifold hole untill it matches the EGR. You want to blend in to the intake manifold as deep as possible and create a smooth transition from the throttlebody through the EGR spacer and in to the intake.

The only exception is if for instance, your EGR hole is smaller than the hole in the intake manifold. Immagine you are a small air mollecule running in to the engine allong the inside edge of the egr spacer. If the manifold hole is larger than the EGR hole, the mollecule will run over the edge of the cliff and keep going down in to the engine, but If the manifold hole is too small, the air molecule will run in to the wall created by the step, your air becomes turbulent, boundary layers form and you make less power.

 

[Highbredcloud]

hmm...I thought it was possible to port the stock TB to a 65mm...I could have sworn people have done it...

 

[T.J. 87-GT]

Yes you need machines to do it correctly. Go to this link for some info. Some of the pics are broken cause my hosting company sucks.

http://www.tjsperformance.com/remachined.htm

T.J.

 

[jrichker]

T.J. 87-GT's process gives you a TB that is 63 MM give or take a little. It's a good way to re-use your existing TB.

The other alternative is the explorer TB which is 65 MM. The only problem is the linkage doesn't come anywhere near fitting. There are 2 ways of handling this:

1.) Make a drawing of the position of the old throttle body linkage arm and its angular position relative to the centerline of the throttle body. Grind the shaft on the old TB and remove the TB linkage arm. Take the arm you removed and the 65 MM TB to the welding shop and have them weld it on using the drawing to make the correct angle for the linkage arm.

2.)Make a drawing of the position of the old throttle body linkage arm and its angular position relative to the centerline of the throttle body. Remove the ball stud off the explorer TB to make way for the adapter plate. Drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the linkage parallel to the TB shaft. Make an angle bracket out of 1" angle iron 3/8", drill a 3/16 hole in the center of each one of the legs. Then bolt it on where the hole was drilled & tapped. Then make a circular adapter plate out of 1/4" thick aluminum to bolt the two linkage arms together. Then bolt the aluminum plate to the existing linkage, and the angle bracket. Next mount the arm with the ball stud off the old throttle body on the adapter plate using the drawing to get the angle correct. You will need an aircraft type countersink for one of the bolts that secures the plate to the explorer linkage arm. It ends up being under the arm with the ball stud for the linkage. It works great and looks neat.

 

[dvs bullet]

It is possible, because I have one on my car. The port work was done by jp performance in Toronto Canada. Yes the butterfy does need to be taken out of the TB. It works well and the best part is that appears totally stock from the outside. I read an article on doing port work on the TB and tried it on my original it work pretty good as well but not as good as the 65mm. If you are going to do it, what needs to be opened is the initial part of the opening (make it more of a gradual opening and there is a small down step in size that could be blended in). if you are going to persue this route then I can look up the book that I found the article in. good luck

 

[tmoss]

I wrote up a little article on coverting the Explorer 65mm TB to a bolt on for Stangs - it can be found at:

www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

 

[jrichker]

I wrote up a little article on coverting the Explorer 65mm TB to a bolt on for Stangs - it can be found at:

www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

So much for Ford doing things consistantly.
The 96 Explorer had a 90 degree elbow and ended up with the TB opeing facing forward. That might explain why mine seemed to need different tweeks.

The TB had the breather tube already mounted, it just pointed the wrong way. I took a pair of visegrips and twisted it to point in the correct direction. The TPS I had was an aftermaket repair part and was open at the top, unlike the stock unit that was closed on top. That meant I didn't need to file down the top of the TB shaft. If I was sure that the arm would fit, I could have gotten out the MAPP gas torch and brazed the old TB arm on the 65 mm TB shaft. That would have been easier than measuring and making the adapter plate.

 

[swiller of beer]

The way I converted mine was I used the shaft out of the factory 5.0 t/b, aligned the butterfly to the holes on the shaft with 2 picks and marked where the shaft needed to be opened up on both sides... I used a die grinder to rough out the shaft and the switched to a hand file for finishing... Worked out great and everything lined up perfectly... Turned the tube around with a pair of vise grips, installed on car and adjusted TPS... No problems... Took about an hour...

 

[Highbredcloud]

Thanks for the reply guys...however, the TB in question is just a stock Mustang TB and not the Explorer...I have two Mustang TB and want to do something useful...Is the stock TB 63mm or 60mm? Thanks again...

 

[T.J. 87-GT]

Thanks for the reply guys...however, the TB in question is just a stock Mustang TB and not the Explorer...I have two Mustang TB and want to do something useful...Is the stock TB 63mm or 60mm? Thanks again...

Stock is 60mm. They can be bored out to 63 or so mm without boring a hole in them like my link states.
T.J.