How Hard is it to change valve springs with heads on motor?

Just get a stud mounted spring compressor and put air into the combustion chamber to keep the valves from droppin. Switch em out.

EDIT: Also a good idea to get the piston towards TDC on the cylinder your workin on, just in cases a valve does decide to drop, and you have to take the heads off.
 
I heard that you can stuff cotton rope down the spark plug hole with the cylinder almost at TDC. Then slowly turn the crank by using the balancer bolt until you feel resistance. The rope fills the combustion chanber and holds the valves in place. It is soft enough that you won't damage anything if you are reasonably careful. That way you can accomplish the same thing, but don't need an air compressor.
 
jrichker said:
I heard that you can stuff cotton rope down the spark plug hole with the cylinder almost at TDC. Then slowly turn the crank by using the balancer bolt until you feel resistance. The rope fills the combustion chanber and holds the valves in place. It is soft enough that you won't damage anything if you are reasonably careful. That way you can accomplish the same thing, but don't need an air compressor.

Yeah,that`s an old time trick that usually works.But I remember reading a post on a forum a while back where the guy was using this method on a 86`Mustang 5.0L and somehow the rope had formed itself into a knot in the combustion chamber and could not be pulled out :( .It then said the guy had to pull the head to remove the rope,major bummer!!! :doh:.

This is the only case I`ve ever heard of it not working.
 
8950HO said:
Yeah,that`s an old time trick that usually works.But I remember reading a post on a forum a while back where the guy was using this method on a 86`Mustang 5.0L and somehow the rope had formed itself into a knot in the combustion chamber and could not be pulled out :( .It then said the guy had to pull the head to remove the rope,major bummer!!! :doh:.

This is the only case I`ve ever heard of it not working.
thats some horrible luck
 
jrichker said:
I heard that you can stuff cotton rope down the spark plug hole with the cylinder almost at TDC. Then slowly turn the crank by using the balancer bolt until you feel resistance. The rope fills the combustion chanber and holds the valves in place. It is soft enough that you won't damage anything if you are reasonably careful. That way you can accomplish the same thing, but don't need an air compressor.

Yeah I have heard of the rope trick too. It is discussed/used quite often over in the classics section to replace those god-awful umbrella seals.
 
whats up guys new guy here. im rebuilding a 351W to do a swap into my 65 mustang. i never rebuilt a engine before but im giving it a shot with the help of my chilton's manuel and the helpful hints i get off stangnet. could some one please send me a step by step guide to rebuilding a 351W.

P.S. what is the TDC?
 
nitequill said:
whats up guys new guy here. im rebuilding a 351W to do a swap into my 65 mustang. i never rebuilt a engine before but im giving it a shot with the help of my chilton's manuel and the helpful hints i get off stangnet. could some one please send me a step by step guide to rebuilding a 351W.

P.S. what is the TDC?

HP Books I believe..."How to Rebuild your Small Block Ford"

Don't leave home (or rebuild your engine) without it.
 
If you don't care for the rope idea (not saying it's bad) an old time mechanic told me that he used an old spark plug wire. Cut the ends off, clean it off real well, push into plug hole with piston near TDC, then turn engine by hand to hold valve in place.