how much hp is too much?

[mtbdoc]

Number chasing...yep, I'm guilty of that. My daily driver is a 2005 gtO w/ turbo...about 480 to the rear wheels with the boost controller set on low. We ran into some software issues on the high boost, but saw >560hp/610 tq @ 4500rpm before we had to shut down. Now this is a 3800 lb car with an incredibly stiff chassis [and full suspension mods]. Out on the road, I can't use that power for more than a few seconds [although the burst from 60 => 120 is interesting]...and ask myself what I will do with the high boost?!

Then I've got the Mustang projects...the 'vert keeps getting new parts purchased ["gee, that's a great deal on the Fox Lake ported GT40 lower on Ebay"]...car has been a work in project for longer than I will readily admit. The 2+2...thinking street legal open track car...with too much power as well [kind of like the simplicity of the World Products 460 small block crate motor].

Rambling on before football starts today...but I understand both the number chasing AND the driving pleasure. I knew the 'vert would never be a great handler, and it is set-up for straightl line / cruising duty. The EVM suspension development project looks to be right on target for my 2+2 and your car as well. Add the cage...definitely. And PLENTY of brakes.

Traction: well, if you really want to go all out, then take a look at this product [I've linked to a specific page that addresses what is needed to run it]: http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control-Products_and_Pricing-TC_for_Your_Car

 

[SoCalCruising]

Start with this: will you flare the rear fenders? Or do you want the car to "look stock" as far as the body is concerned. I ask because it is touch and go to get more than a 225/50-16 or similar tire on the rear, tucked in, and not rubbing. Trust me. If you jack it up (ugh), you can get more on, but it looks like crap (sorry). With a tire like that, you can see that the hp ceiling is fairly low before more power is pure vanity - not that there's anything wrong with being vane, you understand.

Many, many of us have been where you are at. 351-based or 302-based? Forced induction? Fuel injected? Carb'd? Stock body or flares? Stock hood or scoop'd? Roadrace or 1320? Blah, blah, blah. We all did it our way, and so will you. There is no right or wrong if it makes you happy. Visualize the look of the car first (my opinion) and see yourself in it doing what you really want to do.

For me, it was a hi-perf street car that I would not be ashamed to take on a road course. I did TCP front suspension, Global West rear. Subframes (no cage - wanted the interior "stockish"). Shock tower bracing (TCP). 4-wheel power discs. 5-speed/Pro5.0. 9" TrueTrac rearend with 370's and 31 spline axles. 331ci motor (450hp est.) 68 Cobrajet fuel lines adapted to the '66, 3/8 sender at the tank. Cable clutch. 2-row alum rad. with electric fan. Blah, blah, blah.

I'm satisfied. But, if I want more, I can throw on a rack of Webers and get another 50-70hp over the ported Stealth and Holley 750dp. Webers make big-time power and, if tuned right, aren't the hassle people think they are these days. I like NA motors. A blower is probably cheaper, but that adds weight to the front end and conflicts with the roadracer goal. See how your application dictates some of the choices?

It's the Gestalt that matters. See the whole, first, then see how the car goes together to match your vision of the whole car.

 

[dozlert]

Wow! That's going to be nice. Just watch yourself on the roads...lots of viper drivers wrapped their cars around trees and such. Improve your suspension, brakes, and tread.