how much tq can the frame take

Lswhat

New Member
Feb 9, 2004
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Orlando
ok i supposed to be makeing like 450hp and 400tq will my frame and all handle it with out problem or am i going to twist something. i do have subframe connectors the export brace and road race sway bars. i ask cuz my dad keeps telling me that i will twist something if i can hook and this morning i felt the body shake when i nailed :( like something was going to twist or break. i think i spun but im not sure cuz my stereo was real loud. im hopeing only a motor mount and that would make like 4 in 4 yrs but what the f ever if it is ill go solid or chain it but any comments would be greatly appreciated.
 
Lswhat said:
ok i supposed to be makeing like 450hp and 400tq will my frame and all handle it with out problem or am i going to twist something. i do have subframe connectors the export brace and road race sway bars. i ask cuz my dad keeps telling me that i will twist something if i can hook and this morning i felt the body shake when i nailed :( like something was going to twist or break. i think i spun but im not sure cuz my stereo was real loud. im hopeing only a motor mount and that would make like 4 in 4 yrs but what the f ever if it is ill go solid or chain it but any comments would be greatly appreciated.

What year mustang is this?
Besides the obvious subframe connectors you should also install torque boxes in the front. 65s had none, and 66-67 had only 1 IIRC.

Torque strap is also a good idea if you keep breaking the driver side motor mount...you can make an effective strap for only a few dollars using hardware store parts...here is a pic of mine:

t-strap2.jpg
 
i like the tq strap but i have a bolt broke off in that hole. its a 67 so yes i need to get one but im unsure if the car is straight they are only $50 so its not like they are expensive but i dont want to weld it on and the car be crooked. assuming the car is straight do i put the car on stands on all four corners then weld or what?
 
67GTA-FB429 said:
what the heck is IIRC??

If I Recal Correctly.

t-boxes aren't too hard, if the car aint straight, it won't go in. They are traingular boxes and even when the car is straight they are work to put in.

Its a little more involved that just jacking up and sliding in, you need to slit your floor and slide it up from underneath so you can weld it in in various spots.

Here are a few pics of an installation I did on my 65 last year
http://www.dodgestang.com/February2003.htm
 
If you don't want to go with an aftermarket motor mount which can be pricey you can use a convertable motor mount, I broke both my motor mounts shortly atfer getting my car on the road, went with convertables which are made a bit diff and have yet to have any probs
 
I have subframes welded in, and have not seen any waves or wrinkles in the body with a number of hard launches.
To be sure, I put a roll bar in to help keep everything stiffened.
590 ft. lbs. at the rear wheels. The math comes out to some crazy number like 708 ft.lbs. at the flywheel through a manual trans.
 
well i do hope to lift and carry the front tires for atlest 60ft just cuz of the kewl factor. i hope i dont crack the front windsheild i just bought it two yrs ago and that would be 350 down the drain.
 
i have an export brace and thinking about building a monte carlo bar because i cant get one that will fit my car. but thats always good to know and i hope the drag radials will hold with the shelby tractions bars
 
Some thing that you might want to consider doing to fix your motor mount problem that is way cheaper than an aftermarket mount and is completly invisible when you open the hood is modifying the original mount.

If you remove the mount and drill through the sandwich of metal - rubber - metal you can insert a bolt through the hole. THey make bolts that have a compltely flat head on them (like 1/8 inch thick and 1.5 inch diameter). If you just grind out a little bit of metal on the side of the mount that mates agianst the frame mount the bolt head will recess in far enough that there wont be any clearance issues in regaurds to the mount mating to the frame.

Then you can either back two nuts against each other on the back side or use a bunch of loctite or weld the nut to the bolt. But remmeber you are only tightening the nut far enough that it wont allow the rubber to strech any farther than when the engine is resting on it. (basicly hand tighten the nut against the mount.)

I have done this on my mustang and so has another friend of mine and it works great and there is not really any way of telling it was done.
 
im thinking torque strap because u can see it and it adds intimidation factor my car is not stock nor will it be cuz thats not my touch in the car i like my car to be a reflection of how i feel about it. but thanx for info