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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

how much tq can the frame take

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lswhat
  • Start date Start date Mar 4, 2004
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L

Lswhat

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Feb 9, 2004
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Orlando
Mar 4, 2004
#1
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #1
ok i supposed to be makeing like 450hp and 400tq will my frame and all handle it with out problem or am i going to twist something. i do have subframe connectors the export brace and road race sway bars. i ask cuz my dad keeps telling me that i will twist something if i can hook and this morning i felt the body shake when i nailed like something was going to twist or break. i think i spun but im not sure cuz my stereo was real loud. im hopeing only a motor mount and that would make like 4 in 4 yrs but what the f ever if it is ill go solid or chain it but any comments would be greatly appreciated.
 

xoxbxfx

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May 9, 2001
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Southlake, TX
Mar 4, 2004
#2
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #2
with subframe connectors in, I wouldnt even worry about it. 400torque by the time it gets to the rear end, you got 330 or so....no biggie
 
L

Lswhat

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#3
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #3
i hope so i do plan to put on drag radials and with the 2500 stall i hope to come out hard but its kinda in tha back of my mind
 

dodgestang

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Dec 15, 2003
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Cecil County, MD
Mar 4, 2004
#4
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #4
Lswhat said:
ok i supposed to be makeing like 450hp and 400tq will my frame and all handle it with out problem or am i going to twist something. i do have subframe connectors the export brace and road race sway bars. i ask cuz my dad keeps telling me that i will twist something if i can hook and this morning i felt the body shake when i nailed like something was going to twist or break. i think i spun but im not sure cuz my stereo was real loud. im hopeing only a motor mount and that would make like 4 in 4 yrs but what the f ever if it is ill go solid or chain it but any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

What year mustang is this?
Besides the obvious subframe connectors you should also install torque boxes in the front. 65s had none, and 66-67 had only 1 IIRC.

Torque strap is also a good idea if you keep breaking the driver side motor mount...you can make an effective strap for only a few dollars using hardware store parts...here is a pic of mine:

 
L

Lswhat

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Feb 9, 2004
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Mar 4, 2004
#5
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #5
i like the tq strap but i have a bolt broke off in that hole. its a 67 so yes i need to get one but im unsure if the car is straight they are only $50 so its not like they are expensive but i dont want to weld it on and the car be crooked. assuming the car is straight do i put the car on stands on all four corners then weld or what?
 
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67GTA-FB429

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Dec 15, 2003
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Tri-Cities, Wa
Mar 4, 2004
#6
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #6
what the heck is IIRC??
 
L

Lswhat

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Mar 4, 2004
#7
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #7
im going to go with II(two)rc = torque. am i right?
 

dodgestang

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Cecil County, MD
Mar 4, 2004
#8
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #8
67GTA-FB429 said:
what the heck is IIRC??
Click to expand...

If I Recal Correctly.

t-boxes aren't too hard, if the car aint straight, it won't go in. They are traingular boxes and even when the car is straight they are work to put in.

Its a little more involved that just jacking up and sliding in, you need to slit your floor and slide it up from underneath so you can weld it in in various spots.

Here are a few pics of an installation I did on my 65 last year
http://www.dodgestang.com/February2003.htm
 

sand1man

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
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Charlotte, N C
Mar 4, 2004
#9
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #9
If you don't want to go with an aftermarket motor mount which can be pricey you can use a convertable motor mount, I broke both my motor mounts shortly atfer getting my car on the road, went with convertables which are made a bit diff and have yet to have any probs
 
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67GTA-FB429

Member
Dec 15, 2003
777
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Tri-Cities, Wa
Mar 4, 2004
#10
  • Mar 4, 2004
  • #10
In mine I have aftermarket mounts, and subframes. check sig for torque number.
 
S

slapper

Founding Member
Mar 6, 2002
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Mar 5, 2004
#11
  • Mar 5, 2004
  • #11
I have subframes welded in, and have not seen any waves or wrinkles in the body with a number of hard launches.
To be sure, I put a roll bar in to help keep everything stiffened.
590 ft. lbs. at the rear wheels. The math comes out to some crazy number like 708 ft.lbs. at the flywheel through a manual trans.
 
L

Lswhat

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Feb 9, 2004
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Orlando
Mar 5, 2004
#12
  • Mar 5, 2004
  • #12
so thats means my car is slow and will never wrinkle the frame on a launch till i get a better motor. ok preciate it.
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
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Confederate States of America
Mar 5, 2004
#13
  • Mar 5, 2004
  • #13
I am not being a smart a**, but you have no concerns until either the front or rear (or both) windows crack. Then thrown in a cage and you will be OK.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
L

Lswhat

New Member
Feb 9, 2004
126
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Orlando
Mar 5, 2004
#14
  • Mar 5, 2004
  • #14
well i do hope to lift and carry the front tires for atlest 60ft just cuz of the kewl factor. i hope i dont crack the front windsheild i just bought it two yrs ago and that would be 350 down the drain.
 
M

Mosse

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
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Finland, Tampere
Mar 5, 2004
#15
  • Mar 5, 2004
  • #15
Damn you have expensive windshields... Some of you guys already order them from here, but if you don´t know yeat... I just bought one for my -66, 150 euros... <glad to see something is cheaper here...
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
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46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Mar 5, 2004
#16
  • Mar 5, 2004
  • #16
With that much Tork, Tire Fry is more worry than body twist.
Add a Export brace and don't worry.

PB
 
L

Lswhat

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Feb 9, 2004
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Orlando
Mar 10, 2004
#17
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #17
i have an export brace and thinking about building a monte carlo bar because i cant get one that will fit my car. but thats always good to know and i hope the drag radials will hold with the shelby tractions bars
 

67coupe351w

New Member
Jan 31, 2004
424
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Portland, OR
Mar 10, 2004
#18
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #18
Some thing that you might want to consider doing to fix your motor mount problem that is way cheaper than an aftermarket mount and is completly invisible when you open the hood is modifying the original mount.

If you remove the mount and drill through the sandwich of metal - rubber - metal you can insert a bolt through the hole. THey make bolts that have a compltely flat head on them (like 1/8 inch thick and 1.5 inch diameter). If you just grind out a little bit of metal on the side of the mount that mates agianst the frame mount the bolt head will recess in far enough that there wont be any clearance issues in regaurds to the mount mating to the frame.

Then you can either back two nuts against each other on the back side or use a bunch of loctite or weld the nut to the bolt. But remmeber you are only tightening the nut far enough that it wont allow the rubber to strech any farther than when the engine is resting on it. (basicly hand tighten the nut against the mount.)

I have done this on my mustang and so has another friend of mine and it works great and there is not really any way of telling it was done.
 
L

Lswhat

New Member
Feb 9, 2004
126
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Orlando
Mar 11, 2004
#19
  • Mar 11, 2004
  • #19
im thinking torque strap because u can see it and it adds intimidation factor my car is not stock nor will it be cuz thats not my touch in the car i like my car to be a reflection of how i feel about it. but thanx for info
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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Confederate States of America
Mar 11, 2004
#20
  • Mar 11, 2004
  • #20
Torque strap is a great idea. I use a "check chain" on my race rod.

Chain mounted to the head and bolt on the sway bar on the drivers side. All are grade 8 bolts!

Good inexpensive way to control the motor twisting and it looks kinda neat.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
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