how much weight will a centri blower add?

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
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NJ
an intercooler add to the front of my car? the novi2000 and matching paxton intercooler. i say the name cause it is a heavier blower.

any ideas? my stinking car is going to be so off balance, i have all the weight removed from the back and adding weight to the front. when i get an after market intake it will only add to the weight in the front.

any way to do somthing about this besides a k member? i dont want to get that because of ins. reasons?

how bad will the weight distribution have on the car if i just leave it like this?
 
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THANKS... yea, i knew there was something i was thinking but i just couldnt remember it. battery relocation was it. i was never going to be bothered with it in the past but will consider it now.

any other ideas? also is there any downsides to moving the battery to the trunk? if ever had to sell the car the next person might not like it?
 
If you wanna stay NHRA legal you have to have the battery in a box with vent tube, and have a full master cutoff (kills the car) located on the outside of the car (most people put them below the bumper in the middle, by the license plate, or in the taillight). Some tracks simply won't let you run if the setup isn't correct.
 
well, it not much of a track car. i was just thinking that it is somthing that most people wouldnt want to deal with if i ever get rid of this thing. all the other stuff, i still have the stock parts......and the blower setup can be sold right on the car.

it just seems like people would want the battery to be in the front where it belongs.

whats the deal with the front sway bar? is that needed? i think it is for street use. is there any parts that can be taken off the front of the car that are not need, like the dogbone in the back?

i will get racing seats but that will take some weight off the middle of the car...better then nothing!
 
i would love the k member, but like i aready said im scared for ins. purposes. there was another thread about this and how ins. companies might not cover you car if you wreck and have an aftermarket k.

i have pretty light wheels...most of the race wheels i dont like the look of for the street. mine weigh 21lbs for an 18 by 10 in. rim, i think the front is 19 or 20 lbs as its only 8.5 in. wide.

i also have a steeda hood which less. i wonder how much weight difference between mine and say a vis carbon fiber hood. might be 10lbs. lighter if im lucky. dont know if i want to spend 500 bucks for 10 lbs...never know, lol !

ok i guess thats about it. i will just have to hope the weight transfer isnt that bad.
 
also, i added all the weight from the link...its about 85 lbs. that didnt include the intercooler.....what does the paxton ic weigh?

The intercoolers aren't that heavy. Less than 20lbs.

The thing about the battery is that not only are taking around 35 lbs off the nose, but you are placing that 35lbs over the important right rear tire. If you were to put your car on four scales (one each tire) you would see about a 60 lb static increase to the right rear tire, and of course about the same static decrease to the front left tire. Under braking and under accelertion, those static changes in weight will become much greater under weight transfer. Battery relocation really does make a big difference.

I couldn't really see it being that big of a deal for a future owner. And you could always put the battery back to the front if the buyer was a stickler. It's not that much work.
 
also, i added all the weight from the link...its about 85 lbs. that didnt include the intercooler.....what does the paxton ic weigh?

The intercoolers aren't that heavy. Less than 20lbs.

The thing about the battery is that not only are you taking around 35 lbs off the nose, but you are placing that 35lbs over the important right rear tire. If you were to put your car on four scales (one each tire) you would see about a 60 lb static increase to the right rear tire, and of course about the same static 60 lb decrease to the front left tire. Under braking and under accelertion, those static changes in weight will become much greater under weight transfer. Battery relocation really does make a big difference.

I couldn't really see it being that big of a deal for a future owner. And you could always put the battery back to the front if the buyer was a stickler. It's not that much work.
 
what needs to be done to relocate the battery? short version..

Taylor, Steeda, and Moroso, just to name a few, make relocation kits. The Taylor kit is much cheaper but it does not come with a sealed battery box or vent tube. A battery box is required by NHRA when there is no firewall between driver's compartment and battery, but there is an exception to that rule. If you use a gel cell or dry cell battery, you do not need to have the battery in a box in the trunk.

I think there are complete instructions on modular fords and modded mustangs. Some people run the cables through the inside of the car, some run them underneath, It's your call. I would run at least a 1 gauge wire. I have always used 1 gauge battery cable that you can get at most car audio shops.
 
i contemplated the aluminum block thing a while back. it just seemed like it was going to get too expensive and a pita to piece together. i passed on it.

i think i covered all the options in mi head before this thread, just was looking to see if there was something i was missing.:shrug:

the best i could was since i didnt go aluminum, and bb was too expensive....i went with a stroker to try to pick up some power there.