- Nov 28, 2006
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So I Picked up my fresh block today.
E7TE casting, bored .030" over to fit my pistons.
I thought I would do a write up about how to build an engine,
since I have a new camera, and since I was going to be building one
again I figured why not? So Here's the way I built this motor.
First thing to do after unloading the block is install the rear
cam plug.
Stake it in with a flat head to secure it to the block.
Apply threadlock to the rear oil galley plugs.
Should look like this.
Now the engine can be mounted on a stand:
I stat with the expansion plugs.
Drive them in with a socket and mallet. Apply RTV sealer
to the lip.
Stake these plugs also. 3 on each one is good.
Now I clean out the cylinders with PAPER towels and apply a good
amount of comp cams (or similar) cam break-in lube to protect the bore walls.
Get out an air compressor and use a nozzle to clean off any debris.
Clean the blocks bearing saddles with carb cleaner.
Drive in the timing cover dowels.
Install the front oil galley plugs, with RTV.
Drive in the head dowels with a mallet (if the deck is clean, otherwise wait on this step)
Apply LOTS of cam lube to the lobes and journals. Clean and lube
the cam bearings, and install the cam carfuly.
It's easy to guide the cam if there in a long bolt threaded in
the front.
Install the camshaft-to-block thrust plate. Use red locktite on the
bolts, and torque them to 12-15lbs.
Set the upper bearing inserts (with holes/grooves) in the block.
The #3 thrust bearing is the one with "side rails".
Clean the main bearing caps, then install the bearings, lining
up the "tabs".
Now the crankshaft can be placed in the block.
Lay a strip of Plastigauge (green package, .001"-.003")on the journals.
Make sure the crank is clean, and not oily.
Seat the main caps by striking them in thier respective (Numbered, with arrows facing towards #1, the front of the engine)
Locations with a hammer at a 45 degree angle.
Do not just run the bolts down to allign the main caps in thier registers.
Torque the caps in three even steps, starting from the center
outward, to a final setting of 70LBS.
Let it rest for a minute after being torqued. DO NOT rotate the crank
Now remove the caps carfuly, and read the measurement.
.002" main bearing oil clearance.
(I did the rods the same way, but with them and the crank on a
workbench, prior to this assembly. Same Ideal .002" for thr rod
bearing oil clearance.)
Apply liberal assembly lube to the barrings and main journals
after cleaning off the
plastigauge.
Replace the caps in order.
Make sure to lube the rear main seal.
Torque all but the center, #3 cap, using the same 3-step-center-outward method.
Pry the crank back and forth to seat the thrust bearing.
Pry crank forward and while holding it there torque the #3 also.
Now check and rotate the crank. It should spin freely with little resistasnce.
Now the crank is finished, and attention can be turned to the pistons/rings/rods and bearings.
I'll be doing that next. If anyone has a specific question feel free to post up.
Or comments or whatever....
E7TE casting, bored .030" over to fit my pistons.
I thought I would do a write up about how to build an engine,
since I have a new camera, and since I was going to be building one
again I figured why not? So Here's the way I built this motor.
First thing to do after unloading the block is install the rear
cam plug.
Stake it in with a flat head to secure it to the block.
Apply threadlock to the rear oil galley plugs.
Should look like this.
Now the engine can be mounted on a stand:
I stat with the expansion plugs.
Drive them in with a socket and mallet. Apply RTV sealer
to the lip.
Stake these plugs also. 3 on each one is good.
Now I clean out the cylinders with PAPER towels and apply a good
amount of comp cams (or similar) cam break-in lube to protect the bore walls.
Get out an air compressor and use a nozzle to clean off any debris.
Clean the blocks bearing saddles with carb cleaner.
Drive in the timing cover dowels.
Install the front oil galley plugs, with RTV.
Drive in the head dowels with a mallet (if the deck is clean, otherwise wait on this step)
Apply LOTS of cam lube to the lobes and journals. Clean and lube
the cam bearings, and install the cam carfuly.
It's easy to guide the cam if there in a long bolt threaded in
the front.
Install the camshaft-to-block thrust plate. Use red locktite on the
bolts, and torque them to 12-15lbs.
Set the upper bearing inserts (with holes/grooves) in the block.
The #3 thrust bearing is the one with "side rails".
Clean the main bearing caps, then install the bearings, lining
up the "tabs".
Now the crankshaft can be placed in the block.
Lay a strip of Plastigauge (green package, .001"-.003")on the journals.
Make sure the crank is clean, and not oily.
Seat the main caps by striking them in thier respective (Numbered, with arrows facing towards #1, the front of the engine)
Locations with a hammer at a 45 degree angle.
Do not just run the bolts down to allign the main caps in thier registers.
Torque the caps in three even steps, starting from the center
outward, to a final setting of 70LBS.
Let it rest for a minute after being torqued. DO NOT rotate the crank
Now remove the caps carfuly, and read the measurement.
.002" main bearing oil clearance.
(I did the rods the same way, but with them and the crank on a
workbench, prior to this assembly. Same Ideal .002" for thr rod
bearing oil clearance.)
Apply liberal assembly lube to the barrings and main journals
after cleaning off the
plastigauge.
Replace the caps in order.
Make sure to lube the rear main seal.
Torque all but the center, #3 cap, using the same 3-step-center-outward method.
Pry the crank back and forth to seat the thrust bearing.
Pry crank forward and while holding it there torque the #3 also.
Now check and rotate the crank. It should spin freely with little resistasnce.
Now the crank is finished, and attention can be turned to the pistons/rings/rods and bearings.
I'll be doing that next. If anyone has a specific question feel free to post up.
Or comments or whatever....
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