Brakes How To Delete Abs?
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jozsefsz
5 Year Member
I wouldn't delete ABS if it's properly working. You might find with a turbo that you'll need it. Not sure what there is to hate about properly functioning ABS. 
You can easily move it by unbolting the mount from the frame, unbolting the unit from the mount (the torx-bit bolts), and then bending the lines (with the unit still attached) to a more suitable location. Mine is actually mounted underneath the frame-rail with a couple of metal straps attaching it. The lines can bend quite a bit (work carefully to avoid kinks) and also the harness has plenty of give if you pop off the rubber-plug-harness-connector which holds it to the sheet-metal.
If you do determine you'd like to remove it altogether, there are ABS delete blocks available. Each of the tubes has different fitting sizes and a few need to be T'd together so it's less of a hassle to just use the block. This also avoids cutting & flaring your tubes so you could eventually put it back if you decide it was a bad idea for resale value or insurance rates.
http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/id81.html
http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/catalog/i17.html (it ain't cheap)
Then in addition you'll want to remove the ABS fuse and also remove the light from the dash. Then bleed the whole braking system. Finally notify your insurance that you bypassed a primary safety feature so they can promptly cancel your policy (or wait until the accident for them to deny your claim).
So for $150 and a few hours of time you'll be throwing away a great safety and performance feature!
You can easily move it by unbolting the mount from the frame, unbolting the unit from the mount (the torx-bit bolts), and then bending the lines (with the unit still attached) to a more suitable location. Mine is actually mounted underneath the frame-rail with a couple of metal straps attaching it. The lines can bend quite a bit (work carefully to avoid kinks) and also the harness has plenty of give if you pop off the rubber-plug-harness-connector which holds it to the sheet-metal.
If you do determine you'd like to remove it altogether, there are ABS delete blocks available. Each of the tubes has different fitting sizes and a few need to be T'd together so it's less of a hassle to just use the block. This also avoids cutting & flaring your tubes so you could eventually put it back if you decide it was a bad idea for resale value or insurance rates.
http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/id81.html
http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/catalog/i17.html (it ain't cheap)
Then in addition you'll want to remove the ABS fuse and also remove the light from the dash. Then bleed the whole braking system. Finally notify your insurance that you bypassed a primary safety feature so they can promptly cancel your policy (or wait until the accident for them to deny your claim).
So for $150 and a few hours of time you'll be throwing away a great safety and performance feature!
I wouldn't delete ABS if it's properly working. You might find with a turbo that you'll need it. Not sure what there is to hate about properly functioning ABS.
You can easily move it by unbolting the mount from the frame, unbolting the unit from the mount (the torx-bit bolts), and then bending the lines (with the unit still attached) to a more suitable location. Mine is actually mounted underneath the frame-rail with a couple of metal straps attaching it. The lines can bend quite a bit (work carefully to avoid kinks) and also the harness has plenty of give if you pop off the rubber-plug-harness-connector which holds it to the sheet-metal.
If you do determine you'd like to remove it altogether, there are ABS delete blocks available. Each of the tubes has different fitting sizes and a few need to be T'd together so it's less of a hassle to just use the block. This also avoids cutting & flaring your tubes so you could eventually put it back if you decide it was a bad idea for resale value or insurance rates.
http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/id81.html
http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/catalog/i17.html (it ain't cheap)
Then in addition you'll want to remove the ABS fuse and also remove the light from the dash. Then bleed the whole braking system. Finally notify your insurance that you bypassed a primary safety feature so they can promptly cancel your policy (or wait until the accident for them to deny your claim).
So for $150 and a few hours of time you'll be throwing away a great safety and performance feature!
I didn't know it would be so easy to keep it. I figured it would have been easier to delete it.
Guess I'll end up keeping ABS and just relocating it! Thanks!
jozsefsz
5 Year Member
Re-reading my post sorry I got snarky there at the end. I musta been cheesed about something, but I'm glad it was helpful to you.
Incidentally which turbo setup are you using? I have a BoostBrothers setup from a few years back which is why I had to move the ABS unit. The On3 says you shouldn't have to. Not sure about others.
Incidentally which turbo setup are you using? I have a BoostBrothers setup from a few years back which is why I had to move the ABS unit. The On3 says you shouldn't have to. Not sure about others.
No problem, maybe it knocked some sense in to my thick skull.
I have a boost brothers kit that I grabbed. The On3 kit does look better, but I was able to grab the kit for dirt cheap after haggling with the guy on eBay, so I figured as long as the piping is good [which it appears to be] I have no problem upgrading the turbo or other accessories.
Did you experience any other issues with the Boost Brothers kit? My downpipe has 2 O2 sensor bungs in it, then my cold side has one welded in it. Was the welder just drunk when making my kit or am I missing something? I'm not that familiar with turbo setups, so it will be a learning experience for me.
jozsefsz
5 Year Member
BoostBrothers is actually an awesome kit, in some ways it's better than On3 (the pipe diameters for example) and it's been great to me the last few years.
The cold-side bung is for your IAT (Intake Air Temp Sensor) that you'll be pulling off of the existing airbox or cold-air-intake.
I did a write-up of instructions for the BB install on another Mustang site several years ago. Since I don't want to send those guys traffic, here it is for you as well. No major hiccups, just a few things that needed 'clearancing.' The ABS unit, the sway-bar, and making some room for the air-filter were really the only places that needed some fabrication.
0) Make sure you're running strong before you start. 36 lb. injectors, 255lph fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, matched MAF are probably almost minimums. Adding the turbo is going to make any pre-existing problem much worse and you risk blowing the engine, get it running good before you start pulling it apart. Make sure your clutch, tires, U-joints, brakes, timing, air-fuel ratio are all good before you start, you'll be flying when you're done.
1) Remove H-Pipe, headers, EGR system (you'll need to use a CEL eliminator of some kind or a tune to shut off the EGR), air pump and tubes (plug the heads), and stock air box/maf/intake. Grind off the "ears" that used to hold the air pump. Pull the dipstick. Disconnect the clutch cable where it enters the transmission and unbolt it from the inner fender. Pull your plugs.
2) Pierce the pan with their tool, then tap it (the front sump about 2" down between the 2nd & 3rd bolts from the front is a good spot). If you're like me they'll send you the wrong sized fitting for the drain into the pan, so you'll need to hit the hardware store for an adapter (3/8" NPT tap, 1/2" NPT fitting). Remove your oil-pressure-sending unit (it's stuck and it's 1 1/16th). Again if you're like me you have the wrong sized "T" fitting (1/8" provided, 1/4" needed). Put one together in the pipe-fitting section at the hardware store. Assemble the ends onto the braided supply line and have some band-aids handy.
3) Bolt on the turbo headers (turbo goes where your airbox was), outlets of the headers facing frontwards. I found no other way to get them on but to remove the upper intake and go from the top. I tried every angle, pulled the steering shaft, etc. Nothing else worked. You'll find the lower radiator hose interferes with the driver's View attachment 122346 header, cut it where it's touching and use the supplied steel tube & clamps to piece it back together. I actually bought a longer flexible generic radiator hose at AutoZone which cleared and didn't require cutting. You'll also find the driver's header hits the sway-bar (you'll need to fabricate some drop-mounts where it bolts to the frame-rail, mine are about 2" and I use some long carriage bolts). Since you were smart and unbolted the clutch cable while you had room, snake it around away from the heat, you have lots of room around the steering shaft since there's no more driver's exhaust pipe. You'll also need to lengthen the O2 sensor wires which will now need to reach up to the the top passenger side of the engine roughly. Cut & solder (at the harness not the sensor wires themselves) or buy some extenders.
4) You'll need to cut up the inner fender a bit for the cold-side piping from the intercooler, and as noted the radiator support (moving the hood-prop-rod-mount to the inner fender) to get a filter on. Probably also the lip on the top of the frame-rail. This is largely trial & error, have lots of cutting wheels on hand and be patient. Try really hard not to cut any wiring harnesses, check both sides before you grind.
5) Assemble (supply & drain manifolds) & Mount the turbo. You have to clock the turbo (loosen both sets of mounting bolts and rotating the compressor and turbine relative to the central bearing housing) making sure the feed line is on top and drain is on bottom, you'll use the 45 degree drain fitting on bottom, the straight one at the pan.) This is where you may have to cut the lip off the frame rail. The A/C hose that's in your way needs to be up on top of the whole turbo assembly, unbolt the mounting clips from the inner fender and bend away. Then bend again, and again, etc. While you have the room wrap it with some fireproof stuff or some silicone, it's going to get hot around there. Bolt up the rest of the exhaust components (I bought a 3" catalytic converter to keep it legal myself). I found the bolts provided for the down-pipe to mid-pipe were too short so I picked up some longer ones. Everywhere else it's v-band clamps or band clamps, easy stuff. You'll want to use the two in-line (not side-by-side) bungs for the O2 sensors, the other will hit the A/C filter-dryer. The mid-pipe takes some pounding to get it down next to the tranny, but not bad. Mount the air filter to the front of the turbo. I bought a "custom" one off of the K&N website which was somewhat smaller than the one they ship. It's a tight squeeze, you'll have to move some of the headlight wiring harnesses and bend the A/C lines some more to get it to fit.
6) You're ready to attack the cold-side piping. You'll notice if you have the ABS View attachment 122347 unit it's going to get in the way (also in the way of the wastegate). You'll need to unbolt it and re-mount it underneath the frame rail. The lines will bend that far without removal or patching, but you'll likely need to make your own mounts as the stock mounting "frame" is too big). The piping runs off the turbo (2.5"->3" silicone sleeve), down right behind the radiator, the 180 degree elbow brings it into the driver's side of the intercooler, which snakes around into the outer fender (remove the plastic inner wheel-well cover), and then up into the inner fender and into the throttle body. You'll notice there's a provision for the IAT (the screw-in air temp sensor from your old intake) in the intake tubing. You'll also notice there's NO provision for your MAF! I disassembled the air-box, pulled my MAF, bought an adaptor to 3.5" tubing off of ebay along with a silicone sleeve and clamp, and cut a spot for the MAF where the tubes came together in the wheel-well. You don't want your MAF by the exhaust or turbo. I also moved the TFI (the ignition module and heat-sink mounted to the inner fender) inside the wheel-well to keep it from frying. When you go to mount the BOV you'll find the fog-lamp mount will interfere. I fabbed a new thin one (and probably saved about 10 lbs., the stocker's huge). The BOV top opening is used and goes to manifold vacuum. I was able to mount the intercooler from the bottom with no problem. Those straps they provide are for the top-mounts, which then can be bent over the radiator support and fastened. I had to remove the power-steering-cooler (just plugging the hoses back into eachother).
7) Mount the wastegate and screamer pipe. I popped a Harley-style exhaust baffle into the screamer (1.5" x 4") which made it very civil. Don't forget that circular piece of metal which is actually the seating-surface for the wastegate valve or you'll be exhausting out the wastegate even at idle, not making full boost, etc. Ask me how I know. You have to be careful, though, not to impede the wastegate flow too much with the baffle or you'll get boost creep (I had to open the baffle some). If you carefully moved your ABS unit you should have enough room for everything. The wastegate side-port is used (leave the top-port open to the atmosphere), which connects to the output from the turbo.
8) The stock wastegate is set for 6psi and isn't adjustable. You can swap springs or get a boost controller (which bleeds off some of the pressure to the atmosphere and therefore lets you build more boost before the wastegate opens). Dirt cheap on ebay for manual boost controllers (though many people remove any check-balls from them because of the danger of boost spike). You'll also find you NEED a boost gauge, available almost anywhere including Autozone around here, which plumbs into the manifold vacuum. Don't start it up without one! I test-drove and found I had a bad boost controller and the wastegate was never opening! I would have blown the motor without the $40 gauge.
9) Bolt everything back together, down-gap your plugs (to prevent flame blow-out under boost) and consider a better ignition coil at minimum, a better ignition system if you have the bucks. Before start-up check all the fluids, disconnect the plug-wire at the coil and turn it over until you build up some oil pressure to prime the turbo. You'll have to do something about the PCV system to keep from pressurizing the crank-case at boost (best bet is to remove & plug it in my opinion and go to breathers -- K&N makes one that screws on in place of the oil filler cap).
10) Go for a few test drives, no boost. Make sure you're not leaking anything (oil, coolant, exhaust, etc.) and that you have no "Check Engine" light. Gently apply boost by revving (don't gun it in 1st), watch your gauge and listen for the wastegate to open if you hit around 6psi. When you drop the throttle, listen for the "hiss" of the BOV letting off pressure. Listen VERY carefully for any detonation. You'll blow your motor in seconds if you're pinging under boost. If you can make it to max boost up to redline with no hint of detonation, congratulations you've established a good base tune.
11) Have yourself professionally tuned (or DIY with a QuarterHorse or Tweecer -- happy to help you there).
12) Blow the doors of anyone who challenges you, and be careful. You have crazy power available. If you have a stock block, you probably don't want to boost more than about 10 or 12 psi even when tuned because the 5.0 tends to crack in half at >450hp. The turbo kit can easily build 15-20 psi which is ridiculous horsepower.
The cold-side bung is for your IAT (Intake Air Temp Sensor) that you'll be pulling off of the existing airbox or cold-air-intake.
I did a write-up of instructions for the BB install on another Mustang site several years ago. Since I don't want to send those guys traffic, here it is for you as well. No major hiccups, just a few things that needed 'clearancing.' The ABS unit, the sway-bar, and making some room for the air-filter were really the only places that needed some fabrication.
0) Make sure you're running strong before you start. 36 lb. injectors, 255lph fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, matched MAF are probably almost minimums. Adding the turbo is going to make any pre-existing problem much worse and you risk blowing the engine, get it running good before you start pulling it apart. Make sure your clutch, tires, U-joints, brakes, timing, air-fuel ratio are all good before you start, you'll be flying when you're done.
1) Remove H-Pipe, headers, EGR system (you'll need to use a CEL eliminator of some kind or a tune to shut off the EGR), air pump and tubes (plug the heads), and stock air box/maf/intake. Grind off the "ears" that used to hold the air pump. Pull the dipstick. Disconnect the clutch cable where it enters the transmission and unbolt it from the inner fender. Pull your plugs.
2) Pierce the pan with their tool, then tap it (the front sump about 2" down between the 2nd & 3rd bolts from the front is a good spot). If you're like me they'll send you the wrong sized fitting for the drain into the pan, so you'll need to hit the hardware store for an adapter (3/8" NPT tap, 1/2" NPT fitting). Remove your oil-pressure-sending unit (it's stuck and it's 1 1/16th). Again if you're like me you have the wrong sized "T" fitting (1/8" provided, 1/4" needed). Put one together in the pipe-fitting section at the hardware store. Assemble the ends onto the braided supply line and have some band-aids handy.
3) Bolt on the turbo headers (turbo goes where your airbox was), outlets of the headers facing frontwards. I found no other way to get them on but to remove the upper intake and go from the top. I tried every angle, pulled the steering shaft, etc. Nothing else worked. You'll find the lower radiator hose interferes with the driver's View attachment 122346 header, cut it where it's touching and use the supplied steel tube & clamps to piece it back together. I actually bought a longer flexible generic radiator hose at AutoZone which cleared and didn't require cutting. You'll also find the driver's header hits the sway-bar (you'll need to fabricate some drop-mounts where it bolts to the frame-rail, mine are about 2" and I use some long carriage bolts). Since you were smart and unbolted the clutch cable while you had room, snake it around away from the heat, you have lots of room around the steering shaft since there's no more driver's exhaust pipe. You'll also need to lengthen the O2 sensor wires which will now need to reach up to the the top passenger side of the engine roughly. Cut & solder (at the harness not the sensor wires themselves) or buy some extenders.
4) You'll need to cut up the inner fender a bit for the cold-side piping from the intercooler, and as noted the radiator support (moving the hood-prop-rod-mount to the inner fender) to get a filter on. Probably also the lip on the top of the frame-rail. This is largely trial & error, have lots of cutting wheels on hand and be patient. Try really hard not to cut any wiring harnesses, check both sides before you grind.
5) Assemble (supply & drain manifolds) & Mount the turbo. You have to clock the turbo (loosen both sets of mounting bolts and rotating the compressor and turbine relative to the central bearing housing) making sure the feed line is on top and drain is on bottom, you'll use the 45 degree drain fitting on bottom, the straight one at the pan.) This is where you may have to cut the lip off the frame rail. The A/C hose that's in your way needs to be up on top of the whole turbo assembly, unbolt the mounting clips from the inner fender and bend away. Then bend again, and again, etc. While you have the room wrap it with some fireproof stuff or some silicone, it's going to get hot around there. Bolt up the rest of the exhaust components (I bought a 3" catalytic converter to keep it legal myself). I found the bolts provided for the down-pipe to mid-pipe were too short so I picked up some longer ones. Everywhere else it's v-band clamps or band clamps, easy stuff. You'll want to use the two in-line (not side-by-side) bungs for the O2 sensors, the other will hit the A/C filter-dryer. The mid-pipe takes some pounding to get it down next to the tranny, but not bad. Mount the air filter to the front of the turbo. I bought a "custom" one off of the K&N website which was somewhat smaller than the one they ship. It's a tight squeeze, you'll have to move some of the headlight wiring harnesses and bend the A/C lines some more to get it to fit.
6) You're ready to attack the cold-side piping. You'll notice if you have the ABS View attachment 122347 unit it's going to get in the way (also in the way of the wastegate). You'll need to unbolt it and re-mount it underneath the frame rail. The lines will bend that far without removal or patching, but you'll likely need to make your own mounts as the stock mounting "frame" is too big). The piping runs off the turbo (2.5"->3" silicone sleeve), down right behind the radiator, the 180 degree elbow brings it into the driver's side of the intercooler, which snakes around into the outer fender (remove the plastic inner wheel-well cover), and then up into the inner fender and into the throttle body. You'll notice there's a provision for the IAT (the screw-in air temp sensor from your old intake) in the intake tubing. You'll also notice there's NO provision for your MAF! I disassembled the air-box, pulled my MAF, bought an adaptor to 3.5" tubing off of ebay along with a silicone sleeve and clamp, and cut a spot for the MAF where the tubes came together in the wheel-well. You don't want your MAF by the exhaust or turbo. I also moved the TFI (the ignition module and heat-sink mounted to the inner fender) inside the wheel-well to keep it from frying. When you go to mount the BOV you'll find the fog-lamp mount will interfere. I fabbed a new thin one (and probably saved about 10 lbs., the stocker's huge). The BOV top opening is used and goes to manifold vacuum. I was able to mount the intercooler from the bottom with no problem. Those straps they provide are for the top-mounts, which then can be bent over the radiator support and fastened. I had to remove the power-steering-cooler (just plugging the hoses back into eachother).
7) Mount the wastegate and screamer pipe. I popped a Harley-style exhaust baffle into the screamer (1.5" x 4") which made it very civil. Don't forget that circular piece of metal which is actually the seating-surface for the wastegate valve or you'll be exhausting out the wastegate even at idle, not making full boost, etc. Ask me how I know.
You have to be careful, though, not to impede the wastegate flow too much with the baffle or you'll get boost creep (I had to open the baffle some). If you carefully moved your ABS unit you should have enough room for everything. The wastegate side-port is used (leave the top-port open to the atmosphere), which connects to the output from the turbo.8) The stock wastegate is set for 6psi and isn't adjustable. You can swap springs or get a boost controller (which bleeds off some of the pressure to the atmosphere and therefore lets you build more boost before the wastegate opens). Dirt cheap on ebay for manual boost controllers (though many people remove any check-balls from them because of the danger of boost spike). You'll also find you NEED a boost gauge, available almost anywhere including Autozone around here, which plumbs into the manifold vacuum. Don't start it up without one! I test-drove and found I had a bad boost controller and the wastegate was never opening! I would have blown the motor without the $40 gauge.
9) Bolt everything back together, down-gap your plugs (to prevent flame blow-out under boost) and consider a better ignition coil at minimum, a better ignition system if you have the bucks. Before start-up check all the fluids, disconnect the plug-wire at the coil and turn it over until you build up some oil pressure to prime the turbo. You'll have to do something about the PCV system to keep from pressurizing the crank-case at boost (best bet is to remove & plug it in my opinion and go to breathers -- K&N makes one that screws on in place of the oil filler cap).
10) Go for a few test drives, no boost. Make sure you're not leaking anything (oil, coolant, exhaust, etc.) and that you have no "Check Engine" light. Gently apply boost by revving (don't gun it in 1st), watch your gauge and listen for the wastegate to open if you hit around 6psi. When you drop the throttle, listen for the "hiss" of the BOV letting off pressure. Listen VERY carefully for any detonation. You'll blow your motor in seconds if you're pinging under boost. If you can make it to max boost up to redline with no hint of detonation, congratulations you've established a good base tune.
11) Have yourself professionally tuned (or DIY with a QuarterHorse or Tweecer -- happy to help you there).
12) Blow the doors of anyone who challenges you, and be careful. You have crazy power available. If you have a stock block, you probably don't want to boost more than about 10 or 12 psi even when tuned because the 5.0 tends to crack in half at >450hp. The turbo kit can easily build 15-20 psi which is ridiculous horsepower.
jozsefsz
5 Year Member
No problem! Let me know if you have any questions along the way. I'm still actually running the original turbo, it's a very solid unit. I also have the original BOV, no problems at all. No cracks in any of the pipes either.
I changed out the Wastegate last year (easy to do as Tial aftermarket style bolts right up) because my spring had gotten a little weak over time which is very common no matter what the price range (the wastegate takes some extreme abuse from the exhaust stream). I could have also just replaced the spring as the wastegate itself has lots of life left in it.
And before I forget, I eventually went with some Remflex header gaskets. I ended up blowing out the originals (again a common turbo problem). The Remflex graphite gaskets have been good for 2 years now. Others suggest bolting the headers straight to the block with only some copper RTV. You might consider skipping the header gaskets they provide.
And finally picking up a turbo blanket is a good idea (ebay has some inexpensive ones). That thing gets really hot.
I changed out the Wastegate last year (easy to do as Tial aftermarket style bolts right up) because my spring had gotten a little weak over time which is very common no matter what the price range (the wastegate takes some extreme abuse from the exhaust stream). I could have also just replaced the spring as the wastegate itself has lots of life left in it.
And before I forget, I eventually went with some Remflex header gaskets. I ended up blowing out the originals (again a common turbo problem). The Remflex graphite gaskets have been good for 2 years now. Others suggest bolting the headers straight to the block with only some copper RTV. You might consider skipping the header gaskets they provide.
And finally picking up a turbo blanket is a good idea (ebay has some inexpensive ones). That thing gets really hot.
No problem! Let me know if you have any questions along the way. I'm still actually running the original turbo, it's a very solid unit. I also have the original BOV, no problems at all. No cracks in any of the pipes either.
I changed out the Wastegate last year (easy to do as Tial aftermarket style bolts right up) because my spring had gotten a little weak over time which is very common no matter what the price range (the wastegate takes some extreme abuse from the exhaust stream). I could have also just replaced the spring as the wastegate itself has lots of life left in it.
And before I forget, I eventually went with some Remflex header gaskets. I ended up blowing out the originals (again a common turbo problem). The Remflex graphite gaskets have been good for 2 years now. Others suggest bolting the headers straight to the block with only some copper RTV. You might consider skipping the header gaskets they provide.
And finally picking up a turbo blanket is a good idea (ebay has some inexpensive ones). That thing gets really hot.
I ordered a few extra wastegate springs [8#, 12#, and 14#, two of each] and still have the stock one in the wastegate. As far as the gaskets go, I have already ordered a different set of gaskets, the ones that came with the kit looked like they were garbage. I also have a can of copper RTV spray that I plan on using with the gaskets [my friend who has a boosted DSM suggested it]. As far as managing the heat, I have the cold side powder coated, the hot side before the turbo ceramic coated on the outside, and after the turbo coated on the outside and inside. I plan on wrapping the side before the turbo, the cold side that goes over the turbo, and pretty much anything on the passenger side in heat wrap as well. As far as a turbo blanket goes, I've been looking for one, but they seem expensive. I'll check on ebay.
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