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how to get 300rwhp out of '02 GT

  • Thread starter Thread starter greenstang1313
  • Start date Start date Jan 19, 2006
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greenstang1313

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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In the next year I'll be selling my Cobra and purchasing my dads 2002 GT and I've decided that I want to at least get 300hp out of it within the first few months of buying it.

I'm just asking for some friendly advice as the what the best mods would be to achieve my '300' goal.

I'm thinking I wanna do full exhaust, headers, cai, u/d pulleys, ect... But will I need much more than that to get 300 at the wheels?
 

BooWFO

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#2
  • Jan 19, 2006
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With or without a poweradder?
All motor, looks like you'll need every Bolton, UD pulleys, electric waterpump, Plenum and TB, LT headers, shorty OR mid, good free flowing cat(less) back, cams, and prolly heads won't hurt along with a good tune to get it all inline.

Power adder, pretty much any 9psi blower will eclipse that HP goal. Or a nice 100shot of nitrous.
 
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greenstang1313

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Theres no way I can afford a blower and I'm not really into racing so I'm not wont be doing nitrous. It'll just be raw engine.

I just want a car that is really quick that I can cruise around town in.

(and just to let you know, I came up with the '300' figure because my friend has a 96 Cobra with factory 305hp and that car is PLENTY quick for me)
 

BooWFO

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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greenstang1313 said:
Theres no way I can afford a blower and I'm not really into racing so I'm not wont be doing nitrous. It'll just be raw engine.

I just want a car that is really quick that I can cruise around town in.

(and just to let you know, I came up with the '300' figure because my friend has a 96 Cobra with factory 305hp and that car is PLENTY quick for me)
Click to expand...
that was 305 at the crank.
Also I ride in my buddies cobra a fair amount even though my car is quicker his feels quicker.

In reality if your just wanting to have the amount of power of that generation cobra.
Full exhaust, TB and Plenum, UD's, gears, and your car should be quicker than his.
 

tomustang

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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what's going to happen to your currant 94 cobra?
 

blackfang

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Full bolt ons, VT stage 2 cams and a tune.
 

stangGT97

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I would keep the 5.0 if I was planning on making an N/A beast without breaking my bank
 

300bhp/ton

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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greenstang1313 said:
Theres no way I can afford a blower and I'm not really into racing so I'm not wont be doing nitrous. It'll just be raw engine.

I just want a car that is really quick that I can cruise around town in.
Click to expand...
Sounds like nitrous is really the best bet.

Get a CAI, catback exhaust some gears (4.10, these don't add HP but will really wake the car up and make it feel like you gained a lot of HP - well worth it) and a 100 shot. This means you can cruise yet still have a very fast car when you want it.

Apart from that getting 300rwhp, a genuine 300rwhp wheich means on a Mustang dyno and not on a Dynojet dyno (this is because dynojets are non load bearing dynos and will typically show 10-20rwhp higher results) will take a fair bit of work.

Most of the bolt ons + heads and cams should see you nicely at/over 300rwhp depending on specific setup. But it'll be expensive as there are a lot of components to get.

A blower may be more money initally but will make anywhere from 350-420rwhp pretty easy without too many other mods. Best bet is to price up a proper n/a build and compare the price to a blower. I've done it in the past and the blower is not really anymore expensive overall and still make more power.

How much money to plan on spending?

greenstang1313 said:
(and just to let you know, I came up with the '300' figure because my friend has a 96 Cobra with factory 305hp and that car is PLENTY quick for me)
Click to expand...
Not sure but I think they often put down ~250-60rwhp
 

98blackmagic

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#9
  • Jan 19, 2006
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Check out Hotmustang331 he is at 292 I think, and has SMALL vt stage 1 cams in his, the heads are stock also. He has all his mods here on :SNSign: , I would look at them if you want to see what works.
 

timeless2

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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LOTS of bolt-ons and bolt-ins if you are staying naturally aspirated.

Otherwise, as stated, a power adder is a quick option.
 

caballo

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#11
  • Jan 19, 2006
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SLP power pack offers 330 crank hp straight out of the box. I imagine that with a complete CAI set up would put you at 300RWHP. This is the route I'm taking. So I'm doing that and adding a Demolet stage 3 intake set up. Should get me about 350 Crank HP total. I'll be happy with that... and some gears.
 
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saleen556

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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If all your after is 300 rwhp nitrous is the cheapest route.You could also pick up a used blower for 2k and easily obtain your goal.
 

DocG

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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Already said he didn't want nitrous because he wants a fast street driven car with punch on a regular basis.

Can adding a 4k vortech or something really be any more expensive than all the bolt-ons, cams, dyno-tune, etc.???
 
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greenstang1313

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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tomustang said:
what's going to happen to your currant 94 cobra?
Click to expand...

I'll be selling it. I live in MA.
 
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greenstang1313

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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stangGT97 said:
I would keep the 5.0 if I was planning on making an N/A beast without breaking my bank
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you're saying, but the thing is, my car already has like 104,000 miles, whereas the GT that i'll be getting has about 11,000 miles. I'm not about to dump $4000 into a car that is already presenting me with a new problem every 2 weeks. The 02'GT is in mint condition inside and out (dad bought it brand new) and he has never raced it (on the track or the street). I doubt the car has ever seen 3000rpms, Im not even kidding.
 

300bhp/ton

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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DocG2828 said:
Already said he didn't want nitrous because he wants a fast street driven car with punch on a regular basis.

Can adding a 4k vortech or something really be any more expensive than all the bolt-ons, cams, dyno-tune, etc.???
Click to expand...
The thing with a good blower setup is you don't need to do any other mods and you'll still get good rwhp numbers, even if you keep the stock exhaust. Plus it's only one thing to install.

If you go full bolt ons and n/a:

-CAI
-Intake
-heads
-cams
-flywheel
-Lt's
-catback
-electric water pump
-pulley

To name a few of the components. It's amazing how much they all add up too, plus there's more labour to consider (unless you do it all yourself, but that would also aplly to the blower).

It should be cheaper, but not by a great deal. And you'll still not make as much power as most of the entry level supercharger kits. Also the motor might well be a blast to drive but low end tractability will likely be reduced.

I like n/a motors, but in all hoesty had I bought a Mustang and not a Z28 I would be fitting a supercharger to it in the spring. The new 3v unit and the DOHC engines have a bit more scope as a n/a platform but lack of available parts for the 3v is a downer (present market conditions) and a DOHC unit means double the parts and more labour over a SOHC.

These mod engines respond well to FI, so why not exploit their strenghts rather than worry about their weaker areas.

My plan was to get a 01+ GT M5 STOCK and add:
-3.73 gears
-SLP loudmouth
-1.7 KB 9psi intercooled (plus all the extra's KB offers)

This should have been good for 380-400rwhp. If it wasn't quite enough then some LT's and a better X or H pipe would also have been used. This would then take you pretty close to the recommended 420rwhp limit for the stock internals of the SOHC. As it happened, I couldn't find a Mustang and the Camaro came up at too good a price to refuse.

One of the centrifugal blower kits would have done just as a good a job but would have had slighty less low end grunt, so would have gone 4.10 instead of 3.73 gears.

Remember things like pulleys and CAI (even head and cam setups, if n/a power was the aim) arn't generally compatiable with a blower, so they would be a waste of money to get if a blower is in your future.

Remeber the above is just IMO
 

300bhp/ton

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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greenstang1313 said:
I know exactly what you're saying, but the thing is, my car already has like 104,000 miles, whereas the GT that i'll be getting has about 11,000 miles. I'm not about to dump $4000 into a car that is already presenting me with a new problem every 2 weeks. The 02'GT is in mint condition inside and out (dad bought it brand new) and he has never raced it (on the track or the street). I doubt the car has ever seen 3000rpms, Im not even kidding.
Click to expand...
I say go for it, IMO the 01-04 GT's where the best looking of the sn95's

As for mods, just decide what your long term goal is with the car, that way you won't spend money on the wrong mods.

However, gears and an exhaust are always great mods as they'll induce the GRIN factor with sound and SOTP (Seat Of The Pants) sensation.
 

mrvax

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  • Jan 19, 2006
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blackfang said:
Full bolt ons, VT stage 2 cams and a tune.
Click to expand...

I agree.
 

RedDaemon

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#19
  • Jan 19, 2006
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mrvax said:
I agree.
Click to expand...

+1....install everything urself to save a lot of money
 
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greenstang1313

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#20
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #20
thanks for all the advice guys, its appreciated
 
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