How to get a 67 coupe into the 10's?

[dodgestang]

in a 3200lb car and traction, 420rwhp (~500flywheel) will get you in the 10's.
it's not that hard to run 10's. i ran 10.79 at 3600lbs with 500rwhp. 400lb difference saves alot of hp. my friend runs 10.9x@123 3200lbs. stock block and crank 351w, tw heads, vic jr intake, and a solid flat tappet cam. dynoed 488hp on an engine dyno.
people on this thread are throwing around way too much money.
just build a stock block and crank 351w with good rods, big cam and a 150 shot.

I stand corrected. I've never run tens
so I just pulled up the old 1/4 calculater and typed in a weight and a HP number till I get the program to give me an answer of 10.9 or so. I have a 408 cleveland stroker in my 65 mustang wieghing in at 3000 and even with the Ed Curtis cam to get over 400 RWHP I don't expect to see 10s......I'm also not doing anything specaial other than 5 leafs, underriders, and 255 street slicks.

 

[none67]

in a 3200lb car and traction, 420rwhp (~500flywheel) will get you in the 10's.
it's not that hard to run 10's. i ran 10.79 at 3600lbs with 500rwhp. 400lb difference saves alot of hp. my friend runs 10.9x@123 3200lbs. stock block and crank 351w, tw heads, vic jr intake, and a solid flat tappet cam. dynoed 488hp on an engine dyno.
people on this thread are throwing around way too much money.
just build a stock block and crank 351w with good rods, big cam and a 150 shot.

I'm calling Bull on this one. cars with 420rwhp at 3000 pounds with slicks can run 11s, and thats with slicks.
are you this was a 1/4 mile track?

 

[classic boost]

I'm calling Bull on this one. cars with 420rwhp at 3000 pounds with slicks can run 11s, and thats with slicks.
are you this was a 1/4 mile track?

well, 123mph in the 1/8th would've been pretty damn good.
your 1/4 times vs rwhp is way off. take my car for instance: a few years ago it dynoed 400rwhp, 3600lbs= 11.90's on radials (sorry 1.86 60ft). it trapped 119mph. that mph is deep in the 11's (hint: slicks & suspension). now take 400lbs off of the car and add slicks. is it still going to be in the 11's? come on.

 

[none67]

well, 123mph in the 1/8th would've been pretty damn good.
your 1/4 times vs rwhp is way off. take my car for instance: a few years ago it dynoed 400rwhp, 3600lbs= 11.90's on radials (sorry 1.86 60ft). it trapped 119mph. that mph is deep in the 11's (hint: slicks & suspension). now take 400lbs off of the car and add slicks. is it still going to be in the 11's? come on.

i see what you mean by going into the 10s from the 11s like that but i stilld on't see how you were int he 11s.. i know guys (dunno if they can drive or not(internet)) who have 630hp cars who still in the 11s, and htere only about 3100-3200pound cars

 

[FLORD]

hummer come talk to me at performance plus in dublin on saturday. the 10's is easier than you think. you can do it on a decent budget, and not go out of control.

 

[dodgestang]

i know guys (dunno if they can drive or not(internet)) who have 630hp cars who still in the 11s, and htere only about 3100-3200pound cars

Well one thing I have learned is I take all HP claims with a grain of salt unless they have dyno numbers. When I built my first motor I used the old desk top dyno to estimate what it should have and it was suppossed to be above 500 FWHP, when I got it chassis dynoed I had a measly 300 RWHP.

The newer version of this motor I enlisted so pro help on with setup and cam selection...and it should have 400 rwhp...but I make no concrete claims on that till I get it to a dyno in the spring.

It also doesn't matter if you have 7,000 horsepower....if you can't get traction you won't be in the 10s. I know alot of people that over power their cars and don't understand why the car just doesn't seem to click. hehe I'm probally in that crowd now too

 

[hummer784]

I was just reading in mustangs and fast fords about a 94 mustang witha single turbo that is running 9's and the guy drives it about 300 miles a week! How hard would it be to set up a turbo like that and what would I be looking at dollar wise. Thanks for all of the info so far!

 

[classic boost]

I was just reading in mustangs and fast fords about a 94 mustang witha single turbo that is running 9's and the guy drives it about 300 miles a week! How hard would it be to set up a turbo like that and what would I be looking at dollar wise.

i'll let you know in the spring. i'm starting a t-76 blow thru project now.

 

[Hotrod67]

67 Mustang

I have a 67 Coup have the motor ready 302 custome cam AFR head yada yada. Had an AOD built from Art Carr with a 3500 stall manual valve body brand new in the box car is freshly painted (midnight blue) have an 8 point cage with frame rails welded in with torq box on them. What I need help with if the suspension the more I look the more I see handling package I a wanna drag race and still be able to drive it on the street straight down the road? Edbert I notice your Caltracs and adjustable shocks how is that working? the 225 springs give you a nice ride height? whats your 60 foot time? with or without drag radials/slicks/street tires? and has anyone weighed their 67? I found some info from Ford saying a 67 mustang with standard options i.e. 6 cylinder manual trans weighed in at 2732 from the factory I checked the V8 weighed less then 90 pounds more which put its at about 2825 or so? those numbers sound right? if you calculate the horse power to wieght racio 400 RWHP should be enough to get the car in the 10's provided everything else is perfect and to prove the point there are newer mustangs with similiar horse power to weight racio i.e. 413rwhp car running 9.79 right now.

if any of you have any info on suspensions I would greatly appreciate it thanks!

Hotrod67

 

[washMO66]

66 Coupe, 347, all steel, no bottle, 3:70 gears, 2500 stall, 10" slicks, leaf springs, mid 11's

If I change the fan and water pump to electric, put some skinny's on the front, go to fiberglass for the hood, get a 3800 stall and 4:11's I think I may see high 10's.

HOWEVER, that higher stall and 4:11's might make those 10" slicks not hook. Then it's back to the drawing board or the bank.

Point is that I run with and beat guys who have spent more money and when you look at their engine build and set up they should be going faster. But I did spend some money as well but I don't have a four link or ladder bar and my car is streetable and reliable. Look in last months hot rod, they had a four door something with a junkyard motor and a big cam and nitrous running 10's and they spent less than 2K on the whole car!! It's going to explode soon but it's in the 10's.

Nitrous is the key, but I want to keep my factory block and my peice parts in one piece.

 

[fastcoupe68]

I dont know where all this mis information comes from maybe its just people just liking to stick there noses where it just does not belong.
Horse power does not mean anything if you dont get it to the ground.
A 700 hp car that weighs 3000 pounds that hooks will go low 9's easy
Any thing over 400 hp at the rear wheels in a 3000 pound car has the ability to go 10 seconds in the quater, this is FACT not an assumption!
The trick to getting any early model stang to go fast in the 1320 is weight transfer and traction. This can be done with a leaf spring rear, with the right components, tires and so forth.
I just wish some of you guys that dont know need to just shut the hell up!!!
Check out John Calverts web site then give him a call and he will tell you all you need to know and what you will need to get you going in the right direction.

 

[jasonn]

I gotta agree with paul302 and fastcoupe68 on this one. I just built my mild 408 with 10.5 compression and hyd roller. Runs on 89 pump gas. 70 mach weighing 3415. No race car here, still has full interior. Stock suspension except caltracs that I have not figured out yet and et streets. Now I have a stock c-4 in the thing except converter so I wanted to make at least one pass on it before I broke it. So I left with half throttle until just before 2nd gear. 1st pass this year right off the trailer and it ran 11.65 @ 116. So I think it's got at least another couple of tenths in it. If I lightened the car with a race tranny, converter, and suspension I think it'd be real close to 10's. Oh and the motor only dynoed at 519 with 532 ft.lbs torque. Also just talked with an NHRA super stock racer. 69? chevelle that was a yenko clone with a 427. Told me he dynod at around 550 horse at the crank. But yet he was lifting the front end at about a 45 degree angle and running 10.46. It's all in the setup.

 

[66SilverStar]

67 mustang coupe totally gutted with complete tube chassis. Ladder bars in back with a 9in spinning 5.14 gears and 30x16x15 slicks. Power glide 2speed tranny. 460 with stock bottom end, decent ford heads(dove heads), solid roller cam, victor 460 intake, holley 750 double pumper set up for alcohol. Front end is all fiberglass as well as te trunk lid. the pistons also had a small dome on them. this car ran 5.90s in the 1/8th mile for 3 years until it slung a rod. replaced the rotating assembly with a 429 rotating assembly from the junkyard honed it out put new bearings and piston rings in and spent less than $250 on the 429 bottom end from a junkyard. The car now runs 6.40s in the 1/8th.i'm not sure what the time would be in the 1/4 mile but i know its moving pretty fast.

 

[66SilverStar]

and this car weighs about 2600 pounds

 

[oscar Marquez]

My 2cnts

This is how I am running 10.71 in my 67 Fastback street car (with a 351w and it did not take an arm and a leg to get there. I have ran a (466 with CJ heads and a mechanical flat tapet and a race ready C-6) so the big block guys can't say I did not experience the big block. Best et with the very nose heavy, hot running, crampt big block was 11.65.
My current combo:
Cast 414w stroker 9.0 to 1 Compresion!
AFR 205
Crane solid street roller cam. (You adjust the valves once never again unless you want to experiment with valve lash) Solid rollers don't wear out like flat taped cams do.
Victor JR w/830 Holley carb
1 3/4 full length headers with a custom made 3" X pipe exhaust and Dynomax muflers.
Dynamic C-4
10" convertor
9" with 4.10 gears
6 point roll bar.
The car weighs 2950lbs with me in it.
28x10 slicks and front skinies.

No NO2, No SC, No Turbos just tons of torque and a light car and the good part is mustangs are light to start ot with.
I made 428hp and 568lbs of torque at the rear wheel.
It does not take gobbs of horsepower to go ten's. It does take time effor a good supenstion, some of tunning and traction.


[email protected]

 

[McFairmont]

Horsepower Myths

I think most people think they have a lot more power than they really do! My buddy has a 3200 lb 79 Mustang HB (302, ported E7 heads, C4, 4.10 gears), with slicks it normally runs 12.3-12.4ET`s @ 106-107 mph, he recently had it on a chassis dyno, where it pulled 265 rwhp.
I have a 428CJ powered Fairmont that runs 10.2 @130+ mph, car weighs 3100 lbs, & I bet I have 520-540 HP MAX.at the flywheel. A buddy has a Super Flow engine dyno, & most similar 440 MoPar, BB Chev bracket cars in the 3000-3200 lb range running in the mid to low 10`s, normally fall in the 500-550 HP range.
Another buddy runs a NHRA Super Stock 66 Chevelle 396-375hp 4 speed, that weighs 3545 lbs & has gone a best of 9.77 @ 135mph. On the dyno, his 396 made 660 HP, at the flywheel. All of these examples are carbed, & naturally aspirated. Many times a properly working chassis is more important than big HP numbers.

 

[SoonerJoe]

Oscar, what is the drivability like on your car. What kind mpg do you get? Just curious, b/c I am trying to decide how to build my 351

 

[oscar Marquez]

drivability

Joe, I do not drive this car everyday, mainly because I also have an econobox since my job is 30 miles each way. However, I do use it every weekend and to car shows, I also drive it to the track and back when I use the street tires to race. By the way because of the large amount of torque this motor makes it take alot of practice to launch it just right with my L-60 MCreary street tires and the best I have manage with them is 11.20's but they are real street tires and I conceder this part of the fun. The dirvablity is fine as long as you don't mind a very loppy idle wich you probably have now anyway, The gas milage is not bad since I use a 27" tall tires to keep the revs down on the highway. If you are building a 10sec motor the last think you should concern yourself with is mpg but it does give me much better gas milage than the 466 previously in it.
One sugestion I have is to go mild with the cam, I would stay at around .600 lift with mild durartion, somewhere around 240 to 250 if it is a solid roller so that your valve train doesn't take to much abuse and you'll make higher torque than if you go cam crazy. this will also inable the car to be streetable.
Good luck.

 

[oscar Marquez]

PS:
Joe, FYI I am still running the stock leaf spring rear suspension accept for the addition of Lakewood Competition traction bars and adjustable shocks along with 28x10 MT slicks on 8" rims. With the slicks I have ran a best of 1.46 60ft and the best mph has been 124.